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winter is coming fast so it is time to start sorting out those jobs which wont fix them selves. this year was my first season out with the diamond since i bought it from the Cameron auction last year and i am really happy with the truck and it has certainly fulfilled my expectations. i have completed just over 500 miles to local events and next year i am looking to venture out to A & E and war & peace with plans to drive out to the D Day 75th in a couple of years.

 

last saturday i went out for a 30 mile run before tackling the list of jobs which is required to get the truck ready for next year.

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removal of fuel tank which i didn't realise leaked till i filled it up the first time and found multiple pin holes in the welds on the back half way up from a patch welded in by some one else. also the tank has been brazed before so will probably repair the repairs as i can't imagine a good tank being available.

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other jobs include replacing the swivel seals on the front axle as there is more oil and grease on the out side than inside the housings and i need to spend some time on the exhaust getting it sealed up better and look at insulating the exhaust system as particularly on hot days my feet were burning and couldn't keep my foot on the throttle.

 

hopefully i will be able to keep updates fairly frequent.

 

cheers sam

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Your oil is coming from a worn front axle oil seal. Not to hard to replace, you need to unbolt the outer axle from the inner axle, and pull the hub and axle shaft out and the seal is at the outer edge of the axle housing. The seal is commercially available. The rear axle is a lot more involved, especially if you still have the bed on the truck as you have to remove the 3rd member as the seal is inside the "pumpkin" and is not commercially available.

 

 

So you have experienced the heat instrusion into the cab!!!. The exhaust pipe is just inches away from the floorboard. Make sure you have the insulator pad on the toe board. I replaced mine with a newer heat shield and also wrapped my exhaust pipe with a heat shield along with placing a heat barrier under the right floor board (the one that bolts to the toeboard) A HUGE differance.

 

John G

Edited by 42 chevy
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thanks for the advice John, i didn't think about the internal seal on the front axle. does that mean the CV joints on the front axle are just greased? and yes the cab floor get's really hot as there is no heat protection at all under the floor panels other than a small heat resistant pad sandwiched between the bulk head and the throttle linkage just above the exhaust manifold.

 

i shall post a pic of the oily swivel tomorrow john.

 

regards sam

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  • 1 month later...

gradually ticking jobs off the list.

 

saturday i got the inside of the cab cleaned ready to be wax oiled and drained the oils out of the axles, gear box and transfer box.

 

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sunday refilled with fresh oil, wax oiled the inside/outside of the cab, front wings, bulkhead and bonnet and rapped the exhaust in titanium coated turbo charger manifold rap. hopefully will make the truck a little more comfortable when on longer journeys.

 

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Edited by greyhound32122
posted to soon oops
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Hi Sam,

 

I can't open your attachments. Says the link doesn't work.

 

Sam, downunder.

 

Hi Sam sorry about the links not sure what happened but hopefully you can see the pics.

 

just like to say thank you for your reply on your 969 re build thread on the G503 forum i have got some nos axle oil seals coming from the states so it should all be good. massive congratulations on getting your truck running must be very exciting to get over the brow of the hill at last.

 

last night's job involved getting the exhaust bolted back into the truck. next job will be to replace the fuel lines from tank to carb.

 

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cheers sam

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  • 1 month later...

afternoon every one my fuel tank came back a number of weeks ago with 2 new plates let in so it should be good for a good number of years.

 

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last job is to fit new copper fuel lines as the truck had rubber hoses fitted previously so of course i need the correct fittings. image below is what came with the nos fuel filter bowl and i need a couple more of each of the fittings to go in the carburettor, fuel tank and fuel pump.

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fittings left to right:

1/4 bspt - 3/8 bspt adaptor to screw into fuel pump 1 required

1/4 bspt straight fitting 2 required

1/4 bspt 90 degree elbow 1 reuired

 

if any one can point me towards a reliable supplier or indeed any one has some of these fittings and are happy to sell them then i would be greatly interested. the fittings are the last piece of the puzzle to get the 969 back on the road so any help is greatly appreciated.

 

regards sam

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hi john

 

i went to the dallas dig out today and they sorted me out with the fuel fitting's that i required.

 

didn't realize the fuel fittings are the same as on the dodge vehicles.

 

also purchased 2 set's of pioneer tool's for my empty racks so it was a very positive morning.

 

cheers sam

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evening all

 

fuel tank is on it's second top coat and copper pipe arrived today so i can start on fuel lines at the weekend.

 

be glad to see it all back together and running again.

 

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if any one has a half decent radiator for a diamond t 4 ton chassis laying about doing nothing please let me know. not worried about condition as long as casting's are not broken cash waiting.

 

cheers

 

Sam G

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  • 3 weeks later...

had a good day on the 969 today as the sun stuck it's nose out which made a refreshing change.

 

fuel tank back on and plumbing finished and found a few more wiring improvements are required but generally there. next big task is the front axle oil seals so i shall run the truck to the fuel station and fill up whilst prices are coming down then get straight into it.

 

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a few minutes of the truck running last week after getting most of the jobs finished sorry in advance for the poor quality old camera and bad light

 

 

cheers sam

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Hi Sam,

I am also playing with my 969 fuel tank and associated bits and pieces.

 

Part of that has been running the gauntlet of finding replacement small parts, particularly piping fittings and bolts/screws.

You mentioned BSP several times. Being a US manufactured vehicle, it was originally fitted with NP/NC/NF fittings throughout, which are not always entirely compatible with British standard. eg, the thread for the drain plugs in the fuel tank is 3/8"NP, not BSP, close but different TPI. Yes, you can make them fit. I can only source some NP fittings locally, and so may have to do that.

Same goes for the bolts that hold the fuel tank sender unit in place, they are 10-32NF. I have no idea what is even close to that in British series.

Anyway.

See my thread on g503.com if interested. Same user name.

 

But nice work.

Sam, downunder.

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