CMP-Phil Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 Hi Yes some of the pumps may produce to much pressure, the CMP manual says 3.5 PSI. The bigger problem is that pumps for 6 volt and 12 volt are often identical in appearance and the box may not be marked 6 - 12 volt. I have had parts clerks give me the wrong one or they have given me the 8 PSI pump. So do your homework and get the spec sheet from the manufacturer to confirm you are getting the correct one. I have been using Airtex E8902 and it seems to work well with the Carter W-1 Carb on the 216 -235 and 261 engines they all seem to like the 4PSI pump. The don't like the 8 PSI pump as expected they run rich, flood easily and get even worse gas mileage. Because I have gotten the wrong pump often enough first thing I do is put a fuel pressure gauge on and check it. The shuttle type pumps seem to like being mounted vertically better. Cheers Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcspool Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 HiThis Autopulse six volt fuel pump was fitted to a Ford cab 11. From what I have been told this was done on early fords destined for the dessert or India. Sadly the cork gasket in it had gone hard srunk and brittle and petrol had leaked in to the selonoide chamber, making it a major fire hazard, lucky the points where submerge in the petrol so nothing could happen. it will be replaced with a SU pump like the one mention earlier The Autopulse pump was indeed an option for hot climates, IIRC the Indian Army ordered them as standard on their truck contracts. Dirk Leegwater has NOS pumps available, Part no. C29Q-9350 They can be rebuilt, I think this is the right kit: http://www.classicandexotic.com/store/p-1073-autopulse-fuel-pump-gasket-set.aspx (no connections to the seller) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcspool Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 (edited) Hello Adrian, thanks for the advice, are have a good look at mounting places for the pump. Howard Here's a picture of where the optional Autopulse electric fuel pump was mounted: behind the battery box (removed for taking this picture) behind the right hand cab step, just below the fuel filter. Edited September 2, 2015 by mcspool added text Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CMP-Phil Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 Hi The photo of the pump location is excellent, what is the source? The loops in the line are interesting, and something found on CMPs where vibration or flexing would be a problem. The low down location sure would make priming easier when you ran the a tank and the fuel system dry because you forgot to switch the fuel selector valve over. How many of us have been driving down the road with fuel gauge on the right tank and the selector valve on the left? I've also found these autopulse pumps one hotrod Lincolnshire of the 40s. Cheers Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWade Posted September 2, 2015 Author Share Posted September 2, 2015 Mmm thats all handy info, one thing I did notice there is no fuel filter on this truck not sure that it ever had one. I have fitted an inline filter. Well I managed a bit more today my slotted raised headed screws came in today so I can now make a start with the cup washers and screws fitting tin work. The raidiator will be ready for collection tomorrow. I have made up a bit more of the wiring loom, I have Tempary fitted the front light bodys, I found some galv coated flexi duct, perfect for the front light wiring the duct fits the hole in the light bracket and the light a treat, so i have cut to pieces to suit and painted these. Well thats about it for now. Howard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Ashby Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 Fuel filter would originally have been a Junior Military multi plate (identical to the jeep) fitted on the frame side rail under the cab but a modern in line will do the job just as well and will be easier to change when needed. Coming together now Howard looking very good indeed Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcspool Posted September 3, 2015 Share Posted September 3, 2015 (edited) The photo of the pump location is excellent, what is the source? The loops in the line are interesting, and something found on CMPs where vibration or flexing would be a problem. The low down location sure would make priming easier when you ran the a tank and the fuel system dry because you forgot to switch the fuel selector valve over. The picture comes from the "D.V.D Vehicle Trials Winter 1948 - 1949 Northwest Highway Report" and was posted on MLU (of course ). It proves the Autopulse not only had a use in hot climates, but cold ones as well as per trial results & recommendations: "PART VI - RESULTS4. OPERATING 4.6 Miscellaneous Items 4.6.1 Auxiliary Electric Fuel Pumps These were found to be of considerable assistance, particularly after draining of fuel filters, cleaning of carburetor or replacement or repair of fuel lines, due to the fact that the entire carburetor filter and pipelines can be refilled with fuel without using engine starter as a means of actuating the fuel pump. It is believed that they also assist in starting the vehicle engine at all temperatures due to the fact that they maintain fuel at proper level in the carburetor at all times whether or not the engine is operating." "Part VIII - RECOMMENDATIONS 3. CHEVROLET C.M.P. VEHICLES 3.9 That an autopulse pump be installed in series with main fuel pump or alternatively an accessible main fuel pump manual operating device be fitted. 22. AUXILIARY ELECTRIC FUEL PUMPS 22.1 That these be considered a requirement on gasoline engined vehicles." Edited September 3, 2015 by mcspool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWade Posted September 3, 2015 Author Share Posted September 3, 2015 Well I have done a bit more today, i did not use the galv flexi duct I went for the softer type, and it looks alot better. I got the head lights wired up, also fitted the correct screws and cup washers, I also fitted the radiator, its really taking shape. I also got the bottom half of the cab back blasted and primed theres a bit of reapair work to do to this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWade Posted September 3, 2015 Author Share Posted September 3, 2015 (edited) Hello Pete, I noticed that your front side light wires runs on top of the front wing to the side engine panel. I take it this is how they were, I just wondered weather to drill a hole and gromet it and run wire under wing, what do you think. Another question the front air intake cones did they have some sort of slotted cover on them with a fine mesh behind to stop bugs ect blowing in. One other thing Pete, were your rear lights double filament light and brake or just lights. Thanks Howard Edited September 3, 2015 by HWade Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Ashby Posted September 4, 2015 Share Posted September 4, 2015 (edited) Hello Pete, I noticed that your front side light wires runs on top of the front wing to the side engine panel. I take it this is how they were, I just wondered weather to drill a hole and gromet it and run wire under wing, what do you think. Another question the front air intake cones did they have some sort of slotted cover on them with a fine mesh behind to stop bugs ect blowing in. One other thing Pete, were your rear lights double filament light and brake or just lights. Thanks Howard All 12 cab and some late 11's had the rear rubberlites fitted to the front wings to act as marker lights/blackout lights. The cable runs through a small diameter metal tube along the top of the wing i used them for indicators with orange bulbs. If fitted you should be able to see the mounting holes on the wing and a small hole in the side casing that the wire runs through into the engine bay. The air intakes should have a fine round mesh grill that is fixed with small dome head screws into the front panel the mesh fits between the panel and the intake scoop. Dirk had the intake mesh as NoS at one time. A couple of photos for the mesh and front side lights I fitted double filament brake and tail to both rear positions and then used another pair of rubberlites for the rear indicators with orange bulbs, from the factory it should be two on one side and one on the other. This photo should make it clear Edited September 4, 2015 by Pete Ashby added a bit about the wing light wire run Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Ashby Posted September 4, 2015 Share Posted September 4, 2015 Just had an other look at the photos you posted when you first collected the truck Howard. I can see there are British Butler side lights on the wings this seems to be a 'field' mod carried out by the British for trucks that were issued prior to having the Rubberlite front markers factory fitted. I've seen the addition of these side lights on a number of early 11 cab trucks always in the same position on the top curve of the wing so I am guessing there was a field order issued for the modification either at the reassembly plant (Southampton or Slough ) or by local RAOC detachments. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niels v Posted September 4, 2015 Share Posted September 4, 2015 Now you mention the butler sidelights, one of my Cab 12 CGT's has butler sidelights mounted in the same place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWade Posted September 4, 2015 Author Share Posted September 4, 2015 Mmm not sure what to do, the holes are still in the top of the wing for a butler light, do i fit these or fit the rubber lights. Well today i got the radiator all plumbed in. I also collected the metal for the cab repairs. I cut all the rotten metal from the bottom section of the cab and welded in a new a complete new bottom section, I ground down the welds and skimmed with filler, just needs sanding and priming now. Well thats it for now. Howard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWade Posted September 5, 2015 Author Share Posted September 5, 2015 (edited) I had another thought on the front side lights, what about making or bending the rubber light bracket so they go were the butler lights were. Just a thought, the butler lights that were on there have seen better days. The main head lights have the side light light in so the rubber lights were going to be indicators.A few pictures of the repairs to bottom half of the cab, still some finishing to do. Howard Edited September 5, 2015 by HWade Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWade Posted September 6, 2015 Author Share Posted September 6, 2015 Well I had a little surprise this afternoon a courier turned up with the chrome bezel for the instrument panel. Really finishes it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Ashby Posted September 7, 2015 Share Posted September 7, 2015 I had another thought on the front side lights, what about making or bending the rubber light bracket so they go were the butler lights were. Just a thought, the butler lights that were on there have seen better days. The main head lights have the side light light in so the rubber lights were going to be indicators. Howard All I would say is that I have never seen Rubberlites in that position on the top curve of the wing. My preference if using them would be to mount them in the factory position on the lower wing..... at the end of the day it's down to your clients decision if he's happy then that's fine . Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWade Posted September 7, 2015 Author Share Posted September 7, 2015 Well got the lower section of the cab all done and now primed. Also got the small vent pull brackets all prepped and painted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWade Posted September 12, 2015 Author Share Posted September 12, 2015 Well a bit of an up date. I now have the bottom cab back panel painted and sitting on the cab floor. I have been doing a lot more of the front wiring which is just about done. I had a problem with a 6 volt flasher relay so have sent for a replacement. I am also waiting for a new mechanical fuel pump. I tried the one out but some how there is a small leek on the casing it has a small crack. I am also waiting for some rubber beading to come in, so I can then start building up the front end tin work. I am going to get the top half of the cab repaired next. The wheels are going to a tyre company on monday to have them pressed off the rims. Thats about it at the moment. Howard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWade Posted September 15, 2015 Author Share Posted September 15, 2015 Well I finally got the wheels taken to the tyre man to have the tyres removed, they came off quite well, and not a silly amount of rust. I put the wheels through the blaster so they are ready for priming. I also got the top half of the cab blasted. I also cut out the bottom edge ready for a new section to be welded in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWade Posted September 21, 2015 Author Share Posted September 21, 2015 I have a question on the Chevrolet C60s the engine is fitted with a Zenith Carb, I would like help in finding out what model it is, and where can I locate a rebuild kit for the Carb. Here are a few pics. Thanks Howard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maurice Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 This Zenith comes from an Early GMC CCKW truck , the engine will run on it , but it will get too much petrol , resulting in black puffs from the exhaust(I had the same set up a long time ago ), but worse is that it will wash the lubricant from the cilinder walls , and your engine will wear faster. Chevrolet engines have a Carter Carburettor (the version with the black tin cover over the injection pump rods) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CMP-Phil Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 (edited) Hi Howard Enjoying following your restoration, if you have not already found the manual on the carb here is a link to a pdf copy http://www.canadianmilitarypattern.com/Resources/CMP%20Manuals/fuelexhaustchevrolet.pdf Agree with Maurice the carb you have may tend to run rich on the 216 engine, but then again the difference in fuel from 70+ years ago make getting fuel mixture correct difficult. Now that Maurice has identified carb let us know you make out finding a rebuild kit. Cheers Phil Edited September 21, 2015 by CMP-Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWade Posted September 21, 2015 Author Share Posted September 21, 2015 Hi Maurice Thanks for that, I just wonder how long the zenith has been on there, I would like to get a Carter carb for it if I can. So if anybody has a carter carb for sale then let me know. Thanks Howard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niels v Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Carter-W1-carburettor-used-CMP-Chevrolet-wartime-216-engine-/131589137525?hash=item1ea352e475 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CMP-Phil Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 Hi Howard Just to give you an idea of US prices on Carter W1 here is a source you may have already found http://www.oldchevytrucks.com/cart/index.asp?cat2=10329&path=1934+%2D+1946+Truck+Parts%2FMechanical%2FFuel+System%2FCarburetors%2C+Repair+Kits%2C+Etc%2E&station= I'll look around see if I can find a better price. Cheers Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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