question CVR(T) repair question, straightening front flange and flange repair.

[teletech]

Sorry for all the questions, it's my first armour.

 

So, the flange at the front of the hull is bent all to heck as they so often seem to be and I'm wondering how folks have dealt with it?

 

Having lifted a chunk of the weight of the vehicle while moving it and not bending it further then it seems like wedging an anvil under it and pounding is unlikely to result in anything but a tired shoulder.

I could use a big rosebud on a torch, cut some slots to relive the stretching, or just cut the whole thing off and make a new one?

 

The back side is about half off from corrosion so I'll need to make a replacement for that as well.

I have the Repaircraft hull welding How-To but I'm wondering if there are tips beyond that I should know before breaking out my ancient TIG?

 

thanks,

P_

[Grasshopper]

While not on that scale, we have successfully repaired bent CVRT floatation screen shelves (for want of a better word) by making clamps (with long levers on), heating the shelf in places and gently clamping/levering it all back into shape. It took a good while, but no further damage occurred. For the level of damage you have, heat and a lot of (careful!) panel beating/clamping/levering may be the only way unless you can completely renew the parts.

 

Good luck

Vince

[timbo]

Heat is your friend!!!😊

[teletech]

I am made uneasy by how small a distance aluminum has to travel to change from soft to slag but I'll give it a go.

 

I had a lump of 3/8" wall 4" box tubing and remembered my Porta-power. After configuring it as a 10-ton hydraulic C-clamp I had a go. Starting with some of the smaller distortions along the sides worked well so I moved around to the front.

Thus far I was able to remove about half of the distortion. The metal is just too stretched in one area to do more without cutting or heat so I'll break out the torch rig and see where that leads.

 

thanks,

[teletech]

Loooong overdue update:

Heat didn't seem to be working well and rather than risk slagging a giant hole in the panel I opted to break out the saw.  I cut a kerf through the middle of the distortion, pounded it flatter until the kerf closed up again and then ran through it with the saw again.  Repeated that process several times until the sponson was flat, well flat for a 50+ year old CVR(T) sponson at any rate and better than some other areas on the vehicle.  Broke out my 5556 rod and TIG welded over the saw cut.