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1914 Dennis Lorry


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I marked some centres on the starting handle boss then centre drilled by hand followed by turning the two ends between those centre drillings on the lathe.




Then using a fixed steady I could use the lathe to drill the middle out.




Followed by boring the ends out to accept the bushes from the shorter original boss.



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I turned some more suspension bushes from some phosphor bronze bar ends I had purchased for "scrap value".




Then fitted them, using the hydraulic puller to force them in.




The bores closed up a little so I had to use a 5/8" reamer before the new shackle pins would fit.



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I had the gusset plates laser cut for the false frame that supports the engine and gearbox.




The first job was to joggle the plate. This was done by pressing it between two thick plates in a hydraulic press and using two thinner plates of the correct thickness to give the joggle distance (the red ones).




The finished shape is rather complicated as in the other plane there is a joggle and a radius. This was achieved by using bits of rod and a vee block (again in the press).




There were a few trial fittings against the chassis along the way.




Then a quick blast before priming to help the paint stick.




And finally fitting to the chassis.



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I found I was still short of a pin for one of the rear springs. I started by turning down a piece of EN24T and cutting the thread.



Then cut it approximately to length with the power hacksaw.



I then drilled a 1/4" hole down the centre (approximately half the length), tapped 5/16BSW x 1/4" deep and fitted a 5/16BSW plug before facing off to length.



Cross drilling using a vee block mounted in the tail stock ensures the holes are always on the centre line. I use this tool quite a lot.



Filing the groove.



And finally fitting the anti-rotation dowel and priming the ends.


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It was then possible to fit all the leaf springs.



I moved the bushes and spring over from the old starting handle housing and fitted a new (longer) shaft. It will need trimming to suit once the engine and radiator are in place.



Finally we put the dash in place and drilled the fixing holes.


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After marking up the hole needed in the bulkhead I used a hole saw to put in 1" holes at the corners.




Then cut between the holes with an angle grinder.




I then made the first of the side lamp brackets, first welding a bar to a previously laser cut flange then bending it free hand with the application of a little heat and cutting a slot to fit the spade.




Then it was just a case of welding the spade on.




Finally dressing it back with an angle grinder.



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The wheels are back from the rubber company:




They also blasted and primed them. I gave one another thorough coat of primer before the paint ran out.


Then the first coat of undercoat.



They take a while to paint so will keep me busy for some time.

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This week seems to have been mostly taken up by painting wheels. However I did manage to make the other side lamp bracket (and even managed to make it the mirror image of the first), then gave them a quick blast and a coat of primer and undercoat.




We spent this afternoon freeing off the remaining bolts in the gearbox. The only one that is still tight is the transmission brake nut. I need to drill some angle or bar (to fit to the holes in the flange) to react against the torque applied by a socket on the nut.




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  • 2 weeks later...

I was busy with other things at the weekend so there was a little less progress than usual.


The rear axle journals were blasted and primed.




I picked up the brake drums from the foundry. They are too big to fit my lathe so I will need to get someone else to machine them.




And gave the wheels a coat of paint.



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It has been another week spent mostly on painting. Today we went to the Banbury Run for a nice day off looking at veteran motorcycles.


The only real progress was refitting the axle journals.




These connect the back axle to the springs but allow the axle to rotate within the journals. We still need to reline the brake shoes and repeat the whole procedure for the other side. Once those jobs are done and the brake drums are machined we can think about fitting the back axle and wheels, it will then feel like we have made real progress!

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  • 3 weeks later...

I had to go to China for a couple of weeks to install some machines so that slowed progress quite dramatically.


However a local machine shop has machined the brake drums for me whilst I was away.


I still need to drill the mounting holes.


The brake linings have arrived so when some long rivets are delivered they can be fitted.



We also dropped the front axle off at the Severn Valley Railway boiler shop so they can replace the missing rivet for me.

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During the week I spend some time machining the castings for the tappet guides.


On Saturday I worked on the brake drums. The drums are a snug fit on the flange of the wheel so I clamped them up and drilled through the existing holes in the wheels.



Each hole required a small angled notch to stop the bolt rotating. I started by centre punching and starting a small hole of the correct diameter. I then filed these out to suit the bolts.



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I managed to damage two bolts so they would be unusable. I machined replacements then welded on the protrusion to prevent them rotating.




They are a non standard thread 1/2" x 14tpi whitworth form. I also need 12 new nuts as none of the originals are hexagonal any more. I roughed them out but still need to sort out suitable tooling to put in the thread.




I filed up the welds and painted the bolts.




Then bolted and split pinned the other axle journal.


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There was just enough weekend left to have another look at the gearbox. I bolted on an old bit of angle from a fence to stop the brake hub from rotating. Then got it as warm as I dared with a propane torch.




Unfortunately I still couldn't get it to move and I feared I would damage something if I applied any more heat or force. So I decided to split the nut as I should be able to make a replacement fairly easily. I started by drilling at the base of one of the slots.




Then split it with a chisel.



It was then an easy job to unwind the nut.



I was then surprised that the hub was not rusted onto the splines and was relatively easy to remove.




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Thanks for the messages of support. I know it was probably a little excessive to make nuts and bolts to match the originals when off the shelf hex bolts would have been perfectly satisfactory from a mechanical point of view.


I am fairly confident the thread is 55 degrees; which I think rules out Thury :undecided:.


So I have managed to remove the last couple of bolts holding the gearbox casings together.




It does not look like any water has managed to find it's way in, so it is generally in quite good condition. I would appreciate peoples opinions on the condition of the gears. I think the third gear pair is probably acceptable but that the larger of the second gear pair really needs replacing.

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I am fairly confident the thread is 55 degrees; which I think rules out Thury :undecided:.


Thury is 47º30' above size 0 and 53º8' below size 0. It is also rounded about the same amount as Whitworth, so I can imagine that they would be hard to tell apart in the bigger sizes. Having said that, I would be astonished if Dennis used Thury in the teens.


I would appreciate peoples opinions on the condition of the gears. I think the third gear pair is probably acceptable but that the larger of the second gear pair really needs replacing.

I think that you are right, it will probably work for a while, but it will damage the mating gear such that you will need a pair (even if you don't already).


6DP by any chance? If not, what?

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I think I would worry that with the limited amount of tooth left on second gear there would be a risk if snapping a lump off and that doing damage to something else.


I have counted 37 teeth and this ties in with the parts book that states it is part number 754/4 and a replacement costs £1.13s; perhaps I will call Dennis in the morning and see if they have one ;).


As it happens the drawing for this part has survived. Originally made from KE 805 with Reinecker teeth hardened and ground the material was later changed to "3035 Brinell 451-500 heat treated".


The gearbox is a slightly later design than the chassis (and the parts book I am referencing) so there may have been further changes. I think I may have a suitable 6dp cutter to check against the gear for pressure angle.

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I think the third gear pair is probably acceptable but that the larger of the second gear pair really needs replacing.


I see your point but as you have drawings and given the likely relatively low cost of the gears, might you not just as well replace both suspect ones while the vehicle and gearbox are apart?


Given the damage, that way you're sure there's nothing nasty lurking...

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