flandersflyer Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 I made a very simple puller for the tappets from some scrap I found under the bench.[ATTACH=CONFIG]101460[/ATTACH] Then used it to extract the tappets from the crankcase. [ATTACH=CONFIG]101461[/ATTACH] A roller runs in the slot, but in most cases they are broken off above the slot. [ATTACH=CONFIG]101462[/ATTACH] One had been replaced with a bronze one but most are cast iron. I stuck some bits of MDF together and turned them in the lathe to make a pattern. [ATTACH=CONFIG]101463[/ATTACH] Then painted it up. I decided it would be easier to machine them with the hole filled in so have not made a core box. It is only a 20mm bore so there will not be much wastage and they would probably cost more with the hole in. I will machine some of the flange away to make them into the left or right hand version. [ATTACH=CONFIG]101464[/ATTACH] i`m not being funny or owt....but have you not considered machining these cam followers from billets....rather than going for cast... its just that you may get problems again in the future.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted March 22, 2015 Author Share Posted March 22, 2015 i`m not being funny or owt....but have you not considered machining these cam followers from billets....rather than going for cast... its just that you may get problems again in the future.... Thank you for thinking about this for me! Yes, I did consider the various options. The bronze one (machined from solid) had failed in the same way. I could make them from continuously cast iron bar and this would offer a slight improvement in density. They could be made from steel and carburised or nitrided. My preference would be nitriding as they would deform less from the hardening and the hard thin case would still leave a reasonable thickness of tough core. In the end I decided that the failure would be fairly obvious when adjusting the tappets and could probably be avoided by taking care during this process. The arrangement of this engine also means that should a tappet shell break the shards fall into the bottom of the sump where they should not cause any harm as there are no big end scoops and a robust oil strainer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted March 22, 2015 Author Share Posted March 22, 2015 Another busy week with a couple of days working away and a family event yesterday. The centre bolt for one of the front leaf springs was broken off in the front axle beam I drilled the centre then chiselled it out: I was a bit concerned about the spring seat so I built it up with weld and flatted it back with an angle grinder. The next step was to fit some plugs to the king pin holes so the whole beam can be blasted clean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted March 22, 2015 Author Share Posted March 22, 2015 The engine crane was used to lift the back axle off the trolley and drain the oil. The oil took a couple of hours to fall out. I then went into the loft to find the headlamp for this project. The van belonged to Ernest Shentall of Chesterfield and the chassis is only drilled for a single headlamp. This particular lamp was found on it's own in a garage in Chesterfield; it is the right sort of style for this model and was excellent value! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAN THE STEAM Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 This truck is really starting to come on now, well done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted March 30, 2015 Author Share Posted March 30, 2015 New centre bolts for the rear leaf springs machined from bar and primed. Blasted, primed and undercoated hub caps. I have been trying to catch up on painting so not much else has happened in the workshop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted March 30, 2015 Author Share Posted March 30, 2015 I visited my friend Mick to collect some BSW and BSF bolts from his stocks. These will be very helpful in putting the rest of the truck together as my boxes were nearly empty. Mick had found this kingpin cover for me but it is a little too large. He kindly let me have a pair of number plates. It would be great to put the original registration on them but unfortunately I don't know what it should be. It was probably an R prefix as it was Chesterfield based and from other vehicles registered at about the same time it would have been around R2000. There was also a Whittle drive belt that seems to just about fit the fan hub. I also collected a box of Hardex350 hard facing rods. It is tempting to try to use these to build up the worn kingpins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shane.c Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 Looking good., :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Herbert Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 That kingpin cover looks awfully like the one that the Goslings need for their Thornycroft..... David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted March 31, 2015 Author Share Posted March 31, 2015 I checked with Steve, the king pin cover is too small for the Thornycroft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted April 12, 2015 Author Share Posted April 12, 2015 The light dry evenings this week were perfect for cleaning up the back axle casing with a combination of different wire brushes in the angle grinder and drill. I then gave it a good scrub all over with Jenolite and a Scotchbrite pad. Followed by primer. And then started on the top coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted April 12, 2015 Author Share Posted April 12, 2015 I have paid to have the front axle chilled iron blasted. I can blast the small components myself with alumina grit but the size and getting the rust off from the gap between the two channels would have made it very difficult for me. 20 pounds well spent in my opinion. Then I gave it a coat of paint. Hopefully I can arrange a convenient time for Severn Valley Railway to replace the missing rivet for me. Many of the smaller components had a top coat of paint this week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted April 12, 2015 Author Share Posted April 12, 2015 The brakes have been very stubborn to get apart. The greasers had been removed many years ago so water was getting into the pivots. I had been applying oil for some time but the crank did not want to come out and I had to resort to the hydraulic puller. The pivots on the other side were also rusted up for the same reason. These have very small heads so there was no chance of rotating them to free them up. Lots more oil, heat from the propane torch and 10 tons from the press got them to move. Now need to repeat for the other side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BSM Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 Mate great to see the effort and professional result to get another Military MT Antique back on the road and what better time to be doing such a restoration. Well done to you and anyone who takes on such a project and what a pity so much has been either discardeed or destroyed. Cheers.....Rod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted May 4, 2015 Author Share Posted May 4, 2015 I have been getting on with a number of boring jobs whilst work is quite busy. Mainly getting bolts ready and cross drilling for split pins as well as getting some top coat on the chassis. Looking forward to getting some parts bolted on properly. Rings of MDF were cut for me to assemble into a brake drum pattern. Today we started loosening the nuts on the gearbox. I didn't think any of the fasteners would want to move but quite a few are now loose. It will get daily oiling until they all free off but I will not dismantle it until most of the other parts are bolted back on (partly to prevent confusion and partly because I have run out of space). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flandersflyer Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 I have paid to have the front axle chilled iron blasted. I can blast the small components myself with alumina grit but the size and getting the rust off from the gap between the two channels would have made it very difficult for me. 20 pounds well spent in my opinion.[ATTACH=CONFIG]103337[/ATTACH] Then I gave it a coat of paint. Hopefully I can arrange a convenient time for Severn Valley Railway to replace the missing rivet for me. [ATTACH=CONFIG]103338[/ATTACH] Many of the smaller components had a top coat of paint this week. [ATTACH=CONFIG]103339[/ATTACH] make up another rivet out of some bar end. get it white with the bottles and use the press to set it in.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andypugh Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 Rings of MDF were cut for me to assemble into a brake drum pattern. Router or laser? I recall that the ThrustSSC project used CNC-machined MDF profiles for the mound for their carbon fibre shell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted May 5, 2015 Author Share Posted May 5, 2015 make up another rivet out of some bar end. get it white with the bottles and use the press to set it in.... Thanks for the suggestion and yes, I had considered this. However the oxy-acetylene I have access to is around a 15 minute drive from my press, but which time the rivet may have cooled down! But being serious when I looked into it the suggested load for hot heading a 5/8 rivet was 19 tons (44 to do it cold) and a little more than my press can manage. Certainly happy so give smaller rivets a go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted May 5, 2015 Author Share Posted May 5, 2015 Router or laser? I recall that the ThrustSSC project used CNC-machined MDF profiles for the mound for their carbon fibre shell. It was a CNC router. I could certainly make good use of one but they use a fair bit of space. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andypugh Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 It was a CNC router. I could certainly make good use of one but they use a fair bit of space. I don't see why one couldn't be wall-mounted, but I have never seen it done. A dual-purpose CNC router / plasma cutter might be a nice thing to have. Maybe your garage needs a mezannine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flandersflyer Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 Thanks for the suggestion and yes, I had considered this. However the oxy-acetylene I have access to is around a 15 minute drive from my press, but which time the rivet may have cooled down! But being serious when I looked into it the suggested load for hot heading a 5/8 rivet was 19 tons (44 to do it cold) and a little more than my press can manage. Certainly happy so give smaller rivets a go. we dont do `em cold.....rivets work on contraction see.... and i dont know where 19 tons has come from for hot setting...... you needs to get it white....it`l set lovely then ...without much force at all.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted May 10, 2015 Author Share Posted May 10, 2015 we dont do `em cold.....rivets work on contraction see.... and i dont know where 19 tons has come from for hot setting...... you needs to get it white....it`l set lovely then ...without much force at all.... The 19 ton figure came from rivetsinstock.com but seem to correlate with figures from the Heritage Railway Association. I just think 5/8 rivets are a bit too big for my DIY abilities (and speed of handling axles/hot rivets). The other advantage of going to the steam railway workshop is seeing what other toys they have available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted May 10, 2015 Author Share Posted May 10, 2015 Another week with nothing too exciting on the engineering front. I had some parts being laser cut for other projects so had the bonnet side plates cut and folded at the same time. These make up the gap between the bonnet and chassis and will need some further trimming and drilling. I have since blasted and primed them. Each of the rings I had machined for the brake drum is a slightly different size to give the relief angle so it will pull out of the sand. After some filler and sanding it should make a smooth taper. I ran round the penultimate ring with a radius cutter in the router to give a smooth transition to the outer flange. I could not get the worn bushes out of the rear spring hangers so I resorted to cutting most of the way through with a hacksaw so they could close up a little. I then pressed them through with the hydraulic puller. Finally the chassis had a second coat of paint. It should get interesting again when we start bolting things back on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 If that is you not doing very much then there is no hope for the rest of us when you get going! Cheers! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted May 17, 2015 Author Share Posted May 17, 2015 If that is you not doing very much then there is no hope for the rest of us when you get going! Steve, I meant we had not done anything interesting (mostly painting and gluing) rather than that we hadn't done anything! I glued the two parts of the pattern together, applied some filler and gave it a sand. Then glued a fillet leather around the inside; pressing it down onto the glue with a fillet rubber (fancy name for a ball on a stick) I decided to give pattern paint a go for this job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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