Jump to content

CVRT Engine Electrics Wiring Diagram


Recommended Posts

Hello,

 

Does anyone have a copy of the Spartan wiring diagram for the engine/dash and starter circuits please?

 

Thanks,

James

 

James

 

I will post one up when i get home tonight. You need to be careful with them as sometimes mods have been done/ things wired up incorrectly so just proceed with a bit of caution. What is the particular problem you're trying to solve?

 

Tim

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Tim.

 

So I'm finally ready to try and start my Spartan for the first time, filled with oil and a new pair of batteries etc. Turned the main isolator switch one and the dash lights come on, horn, indicators etc all work.

 

Pressed the starter switch and absolutely nothing, not even a click from the relay etc. Gearbox is in neutral so don't think the interlock is an issue.

 

Any advice on obvious things to check first - electrickery is not my favourite subject!

 

James

Link to post
Share on other sites

Carefully remove the front of the drivers instrument panel, check there's 24v at the starter button, when pressed it feeds 24v out to the stater motor and 24v to bypass the ignition circuit dropper resistor.

 

As Tim says the wiring diagram maybe wrong (quite dangerously wrong)

 

Diana.

 

 

Thanks Tim.

 

So I'm finally ready to try and start my Spartan for the first time, filled with oil and a new pair of batteries etc. Turned the main isolator switch one and the dash lights come on, horn, indicators etc all work.

 

Pressed the starter switch and absolutely nothing, not even a click from the relay etc. Gearbox is in neutral so don't think the interlock is an issue.

 

Any advice on obvious things to check first - electrickery is not my favourite subject!

 

James

Link to post
Share on other sites
Not trying to be smart here as I did this when I first bought the Samson, but have you rotated the knurled switch to start the fuel pump?

 

I cannot recollect there being a separate switch for the fuel pump so guess you are referring to the Ignition Switch which also connects the pump. ;)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Apologies....wiring diag coming shortly!

 

I dont think the horn etc will work without the ignition on will it. Thermal cutout wire on starter maybe?

 

Also is the fuel pump ticking? It should start off ticking fast then will slow as the pressure builds.

 

Tim

Edited by timbo
Link to post
Share on other sites

Brilliant! Thanks for the responses and for posting those up.

 

The fuel pump isn't running but that's because there isn't one at the minute, I'm in the process of plumbing in the new tank so have just knocked up a simple gravity fed system for now to test the engine.

 

So just to confirm, on the starter itself there's the main 24v feed cable and the the four pin plug into the solenoid housing. Then on the rear of the starter itself there are two screw on connections - are both of these earth terminals as I'm only using one of these terminals at the minute? Where is the best place to run the earth back too?

 

Will go and have an investigate tomorrow.

 

Thanks,

James

Link to post
Share on other sites

James

 

Theres your problem (or at least one of them). The back of the starter has a thermal cutout switch - there should be a wire from one of the terminals which goes to the inhibitor switch. If you don't have this you get nothing. On mine I think the earth strap goes to the block.

 

Tim

 

image.jpg

Edited by timbo
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Tim, so we spent a few hours yesterday looking at this a bit closer and still no closer, the starter now clunks as it tries to turn for a second then lots of sparks and that lovely burning electrical smell.

 

We've traced all the wires several times using the wiring diagram and it's still doing it, so at the risk of stating the obvious:

 

1) The larger terminal (nearest the driver) on the back of the starter itself is the earth terminal as pic above. This goes to the engine block.

 

2) The earth terminal also has two wires attached, these wires come from the four pin plug on the back of the starter solenoid box.

 

3) The wire that comes through the engine bulkhead from the gearbox neutral interlock switch, then goes into the thermal cutout switch. Where exactly is the thermal cutout terminal - is it the smaller terminal (nearest the engine) on the back of the starter where the photo shows the single wire or is it somewhere else I'm missing?

 

Nothing else drivers side of the bulkhead has been disconnected so I assume everything is fine there and the problem is something to do with how I have I connections on the back of the starter seeing as everything was dead before.

 

Thanks again, like I say maybe stating the obvious but I'd rather ask than risk doing more damage by repeatedly shorting the circuit out.

 

James

Link to post
Share on other sites

James

 

That is correct (I think!) - it is the smaller of the two terminals. Having said that if there was a problem with the thermal cutout you would not get anything at the starter, whereas you are clearly getting something! Also are you sure the earth is tight and no corrosion on the cable?

 

Tim

Edited by timbo
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks guys.

 

I'll recheck all of connections then make sure everything is nice and tight and stick a new earth cable on it as well.

 

Where does everyone have their engine block to chassis earth lead attached? I did try running a jump lead from the earth terminal of the starter back to the -ve battery post in case it was a bad earth but it didn't seem to make a difference.

 

Don't think the engine is seized, before putting it in I turned it over by hand several times to make sure it all felt ok and no stuck valves etc but that was a while ago so I'll try turning it over again along with the starter itself.

 

Wonder if its something inside the starter itself? The engine is a an A1 recon from Withams but I suppose that means little if it's sat in a damp warehouse for 15 years... Is there anything that needs doing to recommission one of these engines - not something like the bores being full of oil?

 

Don't think fuel is an issue as the taps turned off at the minute, I wanted to spin it over a few times to check it's all free and start getting the oil flowing before I fire it up properly.

 

James

Link to post
Share on other sites

James

 

Take the plugs out to make it easier to turn over, cable tie the plug leads out of the way. You should also be able to see what is in the bores. I usually stick a bit of oil down each bore anyway before first start, just to provide some initial lube.

 

The engine to chassis earth lead should run from the front of the block to a threaded hole in the side wall just below the generator - it will be under the big coolant pipe that goes from the heat exchanger to the bulkhead.

 

Starters can and do go wrong on occasion, but I don't see why this should happen just from storage. This feels to me more like a dodgy connection somewhere.

 

Tim

Link to post
Share on other sites

Had another look at this today.. turned out to be a dodgy earth lead from the engine to chassis. Replaced with a new lead and it spins the engine over perfectly now. Amazing the trouble one bad earth lead can cause..

 

Thanks for all the responses.

 

Next problem now is with fuel the engine isn't starting, using the ignition wiring diagram I've traced all the wires and have a healthy 24.7volts at the coil and to the distributor. Didn't get as far as checking for a spark at the plugs themselves.. back to the manuals again! :-D

 

James

Link to post
Share on other sites

Excellent news James!

 

Keep us posted on what you find when you check the plugs. Although you've got power going to the coil it could still be dodgy if nothing is coming out. Also when stored for a while the carb diaphragms can perish, but this should be easy enough to spot.

 

Cheers

Tim

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Tim. :)

 

I think it's more likely to be ignition/coil related. I tried a couple of good squirts of easystart straight into the carb and she still wasn't trying to fire so I'm assuming there's no spark at the plugs.

 

Is there is any way of checking to see if the coil is working? I'm sure I read somewhere as well that these engines are quite easy to set the timing up wrong on.. has anyone has this problem with an MOD rebuilt engine?

 

Cheers,

James

Link to post
Share on other sites
Thanks Tim. :)

 

I think it's more likely to be ignition/coil related. I tried a couple of good squirts of easystart straight into the carb and she still wasn't trying to fire so I'm assuming there's no spark at the plugs.

 

Is there is any way of checking to see if the coil is working? I'm sure I read somewhere as well that these engines are quite easy to set the timing up wrong on.. has anyone has this problem with an MOD rebuilt engine?

 

Cheers,

James

 

James,

The most obvious and basic way to ascertain if there is a spark is to pull a plug out, re-attach it to a lead and lay the plug on a nearby part of engine with no paint on. Spin it over and see if plug is sparking. Then go from there if it is not.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks everyone, will pull the plugs clean and inspect, would have quickly done it on Monday but the top of the head is covered with mud/dust/general farmyard rubbish that seems to get everywhere so didn't want to risk stuff falling into the bores without a quick hoover first.

 

Diana,

I take it the radio frame arrived ok by the way?

 

James

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi James,

 

Yes frame arrived OK - some welds cracked but can easily get fixed.

 

If fouled plugs is the problem you may have to pull them a few times until the cylinder bores are clear.

 

Thanks

 

Diana

 

 

Thanks everyone, will pull the plugs clean and inspect, would have quickly done it on Monday but the top of the head is covered with mud/dust/general farmyard rubbish that seems to get everywhere so didn't want to risk stuff falling into the bores without a quick hoover first.

 

Diana,

I take it the radio frame arrived ok by the way?

 

James

Edited by Diana and Jackie
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...