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Scammell Pioneer Restoration

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I got the clutch relined by Dinah at Prestige Clutches. She did a brilliant job re-lining the friction plate and clutch brake and also supplied new springs and the four springs that hold the clutch release bearing.

I made new pivot pins for the fingers and release blocks and had them hardened.

I also put the clutch shaft and clutch brake drum in the lathe and gave the drum a skim so that i have a decent true surface to run the DTI on when i come to align the engine and gearbox.




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We've stripped the winch, blasted and painted it.

Also totally rebuilt the winch drive box.

The thread in the large nut on the bottom of the main vertical shaft in the gearbox drive box was stripped, so i found a large nut out of our stock which happened to have a very fine thread and enough meat on it for me to bore it out, screw cut the right BSF thread and mill some split pin slots.

Also test fitted the winch frame and winch clutch lever tube on the chassis to get the position of the hole through the back of the cab.











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  • 7 months later...

Bit of progress on the Scammell. We're well on with the wooden lockers and have ordered the last of the timber to do the tops.

Installed the radiator and test fitted the bonnet to check fit up.

Have installed the cab panels for the last time, securing them with all new BA screws and sealing the joins with Tiger seal.

I need a new piece that runs along the bottom of the tilting pane on the windscreen before i can fit it, and i have that with an engineering firm to see if they can reproduce that section. As soon as the windscreen is done we can lift the cab off and paint it. But i don't want to paint in this cold weather, it might have to wait till next year but its a shame as we could have started on fitting it out, electrics etc.





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  • 5 months later...
On ‎3‎/‎28‎/‎2015 at 10:43 AM, Scammell4199 said:

I haven't done an update here for a long time so here goes.


The water cavity side cover on the air compressor was cracked so dad and I made a new one.




Tried removing the core plugs, but only two would come peacefully the rest had to be cut out. I tried finding replacements, but after turning up a blank had a pattern made, got some cast and machined them at home.




White metal bearings are finally done, crank, camshaft, pistons and rods are all in. One of the discs that comprises the torsional damper was cracked so I had a new one made, as my lathe isn't big enough to do it myself.






The large plate that bolts onto the back of the block and incorporates the rear engine mounts is held in place by 6 studs, four bolts and four fitted bolts. When I installed the fitted bolts it dragged the plate over to one side to the point that the crank rear flange was snug against one side of the hole in the plate. The manual states an even clearance should be sought right round the flange. So after much deliberation I decided to ream out the holes and make new bolts. Ended up with a clearance of 4 to 6 thou round the flange so I'm happy.


I'm just reassembling the last of the brake assemblies. I have fitted new leather seals, shown below with an original.




The timing chain adjuster bearing nut is very thin and had been done up so tight it had dished, so I've made a new one of those.




Engine is now back upright, and we're cracking on with fitting all the other bits.




We have also moved into a new workshop over Christmas. Dry, concrete floor, "facilities" - brilliant.


I'm a bit concerned about our trackrod. The threads in one end are stretched and not really wanting it to strip all together and loose the steering on the road I'd be interested to hear from anyone who has a spare in good condition.



Gardner 6LW I presume? I have a 1946 ERF with the Gardner 5LW, can I ask if you recommend anyone who can supply Gardner spares?


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Hi, yes its a 6LW.

I recommend Gardner Enthusiast in Oxford for piston rings. He gets them made, all the other dealers buy them from him and double the price.

Other than that theres Walsh Engineering in Manchester - http://www.gardnerdiesel.co.uk/

But i got most of my bits from Gardner Marine Diesels - https://www.gardnermarine.com/ they are friendly and helpful.

Good luck, if you need any more pointers give me a shout i'm not far from you.


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Thanks very much Richard.

I have come across the other two before but never heard of Gardner Enthusiast, he will be a good person to contact as I need piston rings!

My engine is fully dismantled (by a previous owner many, many years ago), I do have a complete spare engine and the original manuals to work from though.

Yes, not far from you and I work in Ilminster too which is even closer!


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  • 4 months later...
  • 2 months later...
3 hours ago, Rootes75 said:

Looks superb, lots of hard work but very much worth it.

I agree, you're doing a fantastic job. I am simply awestruck by the skills some of you on this forum have. And the doggedness to tackle what often seem to be hopeless cases, or projects way beyond the capabilities of one man. There should be a special thread somewhere on here with just the words and photos of the restorer for us to scroll through on winter nights to appreciate the work done and enjoy looking at the finished result without the superfluous comments ,like mine!

But, anyway, well done and, while I'm about it, Merry Christmas to you all on the forum. 

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  • 2 months later...

Many thanks for all the kind comments. 

A quick update - we got the fully rebuilt winch installed on Friday. It went really well, and i've since got the drive shaft connected up and the winch clutch lever installed and connected.





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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Afternoon folks, thought it was time for another update. I've blasted, cleaned out, re-assembled, painted and installed the fuel tank and rear hitch. Had to make a new pin the catch on the hitch because the old one had to be cut out. Fortunately i was able to find a NOS fuel gauge, but the action needed reversing. Also painted to colour coded trailer air line couplings. Had to make a new pipe from fuel tank to lift pump and solder the original end fitting on.


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