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UAZ 469 joins the fleet (at last!)


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Spot the difference - both are 469 rear prop shafts, one on the left is the original, one on the right is the "replacement"!

 

20170423_183435_zpsumq5rpwb.jpg

 

So I checked over the UJ's on the original and they all seemed to be moving freely with no interference, Took a file to the small burrs on the nose where it had bounced on the M20 and refitted it - together with the brace that runs under the handbrake drum. Odd fact - 3 of the 4 bolts holding the prop shaft to the gearbox drive flange are 1.0mm pitch, the 4th is 1.25mm pitch.....

 

Once the weather settles back down it will be time to get on with the new doors.

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Fitted the switch today and - hey presto - instant working indicators, left and right, as well as hazzards!!       Electrically all that leaves now is the side repeaters to sort out, the feeds to

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Its been a while sine the last update so here is the latest news on the UAZ... Readers may recall at the last time of posting the handbrake had just been reassembled, the old prop shaft refitted and everything tested OK and I was getting ready to do the doors. A little time then elapsed due to the wok on the Militant. :)

First lesson learnt - just because a door looks identical to the old one in profile etc. does not mean it is. I got the drivers side front door off and bolted the new one on. The reason for choosing this one was quite simple - it was the only complete door. The other three are a kit of parts with all the bolts and screws missing.

So - got the boor bottom on and the new catch bolt - and the damned door would not shut. I spent ages trying to work out why and finally, just before W&P the penny dropped. I pushed it, it swing in till about 12" open then bounced back again. Do rather than keep trying I stopped and looked at where the door was hitting. Turned out first it was because the new door has the rubber weather seals fitted - they were hitting the buffer on the A pillar. No amount of up/down or fare/aft adjusting would do it so I was forced to assume that the door hinges were sitting in too far. Adding approx 1.5mm worth of washers under the hinge plate alleviated the problem - not entirely but enough that the door would then shut and be operable on the outer door handle. Then I put the door top on - and almost back to square one. Door closes if slammed but the outer handle no longer works. And there are no rubber seals yet on the door top..... So I "think" I need maybe another 0.5mm to 1mm of packing under the hinge plates to get the door to line up and be operable.

The other "snag" I found is that the outer handle works by pushing on an "L" shaped plate - and the plate bends if pushed too hard so that the outer handle then no longer works. Maybe a fillet of metal glued in to reinforce it will help - I need to take a look at one of the "kit of parts" locks to see. Right now I leave the sliding panel unlocked so I can reach in and open the door on the inner handle - this has always worked well.

 

This took me up to the day before I was due t leave on the Saturday for W&P. Saturday morning I go to start it -and nothing. Spinning over but not firing. No problems think I - fuel has just run back from the carb so I popped the bonnet and started using the hand prime lever. 2 or 3 pumps later I am thinking "bloody hell my hand is cold" -when I looked the fuel line from pump to filter had split and the one from the filter to the carb was not far behind it!!

 

 

So bang (luckily not literally) went the trip to W&P that day. Frantic calling around and posting of forums and FB saw me headed down to Pirtek in Thurrock. They made me up a set of hoses in fuel resistant material that they said should last a couple of months as they had no fuel grade hose in. I now need to get the hoses off and back down to them to get the material replaced wit the proper fuel grade hose. Sunday saw me head off to W&P at last and it made the trip successfully. One problem occurred leaving home - there was a new sound as of sheet metal vibrating. Could not see anything major under the bonnet so I carried on and it faded away after a couple of miles. Finally found at least on of the reasons down at the show - the coil had lost a bolt and dropped off the top of the rocker cover down between #3 and #4 plugs.. So that got bolted back on Still a slight trace of the noise though and the tips of the fan blades are bright metal so I am thinking the maybe touching something. All they can be touching is the shroud on the radiator - and as that is solidly fixed I am wondering if the engine is moving under acceleration - as in the engine mounts are up the creek.

 

A problem that's been gradually growing worse is the lack of water integrity on the roof. At the show it reached the point whenever it rained it came straight through... Soaking everything in the load bed - which was bad enough but it also leaked on the big nylon tensioning straps that run between the windscreen and rear hood frame - thus soaking those and providing a lovely perfect path for the rain to run down and drip on me whilst driving. Never knew Russian vehicles came with built in shower!! :) When I got home I broke out the remains of a can of Fabseal that I use on the Landrovers canvas - the UAZ hood is a plastic coated material so I expected the stuff to run off but thought I could work it in where the plastic might be thin. Climbed up the step, looked at the roof and it was a case of "what plastic coating" - entire back if the roof had lost the covering so when the sealer was applied it soaked it in. It wasn't till I got down below the door litop lie that I found the plastic cover restarting and the sealer running as I originally expected. The next rain storm should prove whether or not it has worked.

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  • 2 years later...

Hi i am restoring my own UAZ469 and would be grateful of some help. i saw your photo of the strange switch on the gearbox. i had previously ordered a reversing light switch and it looks identical. the only thing is i don't know where that switch should be can you clarify where the "strange switch" is it would give me some pointers for my own restoration. Many thanks

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