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UAZ 469 joins the fleet (at last!)

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Some time ago I bought a UAZ 469 to go with 55 FM 58, my Series 3 FFR. Thinking being I'd have a matched set of utilities from either side of the Iron Curtain. What with one thing and another it took a while for the beast to arrive on the drive but it is now at home. Came home from Wolverhampton via the W&PR show where, alas, the brake master cylinder gave up the ghost!! A friend is making a run over to Bulgaria and Poland next week and will be bringing back new tyres and various spares to get the old bus road going again.


This is how it looked when I bought it:







The seller, Rob, decided it was in too poor a condition so did a lot of work to get back to order for me. This is how it is now sitting on the drive:








First job will be to fit the side bows and tensioning straps so that I stop keep getting soaked every time it rains and then the wind blows!

Then the brake master cylinder has to be replaced. To be safe the wheel cylinders are being replaced to - all that come out will be cleaned up and overhauled then shelved as spares for the future. The flexi hoses likewise will be replaces so that the braking system is totally overhauled.


Once this is done the electrical system will need checking through as there are at least two switches missing from the dash and a fair few loose wires floating about. It seems the switch which may- or may not have been intended for am "A" pillar mounted spotlight has been wired in as the head side and tail light switch whilst the actual HST switch and the heater fan switch are both missing... Also on order.


I also need to get the door tops fitted. The door bottoms are not in very good condition and the captive nuts have rotted out - not a problem as I can use ordinary nuts and bolts for now - just need to source some rubber strip not unlike that used for the same job on Landrovers, only thinner, to fit between the two. The bottoms of the lower doors are also rotted out - a big problem with the UAZ apparently - so it will either be a job for the fibre glass resin or - if a good solid set can be found, replacements


Other than this there are a few minor jobs - one of the temp senders on the engine is non-op, new one is ordered, the fuel tank change over tap is broken and needs replacing and it needs the door or "A" pillar mounted rear view mirrors as with the hood up the rear view is worse than an FFR Landies.


Oh yes - and it needs to be re-registered as apparently the registration number was sold privately. Knowing DVLA - this will likely be the hardest job of all!! :wow:

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Fitted the switch today and - hey presto - instant working indicators, left and right, as well as hazzards!!       Electrically all that leaves now is the side repeaters to sort out, the feeds to

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  • 3 weeks later...

Now the Landie is back on all 4 wheels and motivated by more than a few of the "what's that pile of crap he's got on the drive now" comments from neighbours I took advantage of the decent weather today to do something about the hodge-podge appearance of the UAZ. I fitted the door tops a couple of weeks ago - bought a strip of rubber from Woolies to make the sealing strips between top and bottom and the tidied up the four tops. Alll 4 could do with new rubbers around the glazing 100% and the two door bottoms on the drivers side are buckled so that the tops lean outwards away from the hood. Three of the doors also have half the captive nuts missing so the tops are at present a very loose fit. Need to order new bottom pieces at least from Tarmot in Poland. unfortunately all 4 tops were diffferent colours/shades of green. :embarrassed:




So I spent today rubbing down the dashboard and door caps and windscreen frame before masking up and applying a some much needed paint.

First up was some smooth black Hammerite - front bumper got washed off, rubbed over and then given a coat. The heater box below the dash likewise got rubbed down, a coat of rust killer applied then, once dry a coat. Lastly the frames of the front and back seats were rubbed down and also the head lamp bezels before applying a coat. Where it was applied over bare metal a second coat will be needed.

Next up was the dash board - what could be removed was removed and everything else masked up then a coat of semi-matt green applied. So were the door tops which had also received a coat of the rust killer When this was touch dry the auxiliary instrument pane was masked off from the rest of the vehicle and it was given a coat of satin black.

Once it was dry it was refitted and then the instrument and speedo bevels painted with smooth black Hammerite as were the speedo bezel, handbrake lever, gear shift levers and the brackets for the screen hinges.


If we have good weather tomorrow then the grab handle on the dash and the map reading light will all be masked off and sprayed satin black to finish the hob.



Whilst the auxiliary instrument panel was out I had a look behind and found a few more loose wires. Some I guess are for the fuel tank change over switch as this is missing. Likewise the switch for the heater fan. What did concern me most was the heavy gauge light blue wire hanging loose by the accelerator that seems to originate from the rear of the middle of the three warning lights. I have no idea what it is meant to be for. Likewise the two white buttons to the top left of the auxiliary instrument panel, no idea yet what are they meant to be for - seem to be press to use as opposed to press for on, press for off - one maybe screen washer????



As a reminder - this was the start of play:




Masking in progress:




Finished (for today) job:




Apart from the odd loose wires one thing that did seem odd was the back of the auxiliary instrument - I am thinking the tube on the back of each gauge is for a bulb holder?? If so - I seem to have all the panel lighting missing too!!





Any one got a wiring diagram for a Czech built UAZ 469 I could get a sight/copy of please?????


Other good news is that most of the parts have arrived for the brakes and lights. Just need to get the other two front wheel cylinders and the rebuild can be carried out.


Brakes (ref boxes = rear wheels, blue boxes = front wheels):



Fuel change-over tap:



Oil/water temp sender and thermostat:






Screenwash reservoir/pump:


Edited by ArtistsRifles
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Day 2 of of the tidy up is over. The old bus is looking a bit better now even if I do say it myself :)



Finished off rubbing the grab handle and map reading light down then masked he dash up and gave them a c a few coats of Satin Black, same as the auxilliary IP. Looks reasonable I think:









Whilst I had the Satin Black out and ready I sprayed a dollop onto some clean card and then used a modelling brush to give a coat to the two screen hinge brackets.



Next I went back to the smooth black Hammerite and finished painting the top sections of the seat frames and the front seat back, I think the rear backs are too far gone to be worth trying. Once I have it running again with a reg plate and, if necessary a ticket I want to remover the seats completely, replace the cushions and backs and, whilst waiting for those, media blast all the frames, prime them and spray them to get a nice smooth finish. I also cleaned out the back of the spare wheel and gave that a brush over to improve the visual appearance and refitted the headlamp bezels












Lastly a few people had mentioned the wee problem of the tension bows constantly springing out - and true to form mine do it too - even when standing still. As I got fed up with lumps of steel flying into the back of my head I did something about it. One length of string later you have the simple way of stopping this happening. Wonder if I can patent it??? And why on earth didn't they put the clips on the other way around so they hold the bows in place all the time???









If the weather holds the next steps will be to fit the rear mudflaps and the new rear lights and reflectors then come up with a way of mounting a UK registration plate on the rear that clips to the jerry can holder. Then fit the new brake master cylinder. Brakes then will have to wait until I can source another couple of Czech spec front wheel cylinders.

Oh yes - and find a better way of getting the damned bonnet open!!!

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Another days working completed - got a fair bit done - but I think the UAZ wins this round as it would not start and dumped a puddle of very rusty water on the ground underneath the back of the engine



The good bits first then. I stripped off the mismatched and broken tail light assemblies and fitted the new ones Rob picked up out East. simple job although only the passenger side had the multi-plug still, the driver side had 3 separate connector. Oddly though - it was the driver side that was working right - as you can see from the picture below when the sidelights are switched on the middle of the three bulbs light up on the driver side but the lower one on the passenger side!! Some investigating to do there I think. Could not check the brake lights as there was only me here at the time.






Next I sorted out the fuel tank change-over tap. The body looked good on the original so I just fitted the lever onto it. Not sure how it is meant to work but I believe the drivers tank had the fuel in from W&P so I fitted the handle pointing at that tank so that it will point at the tank in use. If I find out that it was the passenger side tank that was filled I will just take it off and reverse it. :)






With that done I got down and - very - dirty and swapped out the brake master cylinder,. Despite being pressure washed the underside still carries a fair amount of W&P mud. It seems to hold the mud more - a lot more - than a Landrover!

The two securing bolts did not want to move at first but application of a releasing spray followed by locking the jaws of a 16mm spanner on the 14mm and heaving hard cracked them. Popped the activating rod in, swung the body up and loose fitted the bolts then fitted the pipe union on the rear. Once that was tight I tightened the two securing bolts, coated the front of the actuating rod in Vaseline then eased the rubber boot over it and then worked the spring clip back on with a couple of screwdrivers. Once this was all done I topped it up from a fresh bottle of Dot-4 fluid, will check again tomorrow as it will have found a level by then ready for bleeding.



Before - the leak from the old cylinder can be seen clearly.




After - new cylinder in place and ready.




Whilst under I noticed a funny switch on the side of the gearbox. AFAIK reversing lights were never an option so can any one say what it is for??







Returning to the top - after washing the hands to get rid of any brake fluid that might have gotten on to them I fitted the spotlight and arm. The light had no fed cable so firstly I fitted a length of cable into the light and fed it through the support arm thence into the body through the large hole before fitting the M8 securing bolts - two in the rear captive plate and with nuts and washers on the front two. Cable was left hanging inside until I can find the switch it is meant to go to.







Finally under the bonnet I went to fit the screen wash bottle and pump. As can be seen from the photo it looks very much like a part of the mounting bracket is missing. All the feed pipe to the jets is hanging loose inside so Ineed to find the loose end and feed it though the bulkhead to the pump. And find out where the other end of the switched lead goes go tehind the dash




Now the bad part - as stated the engine refused point blank to fire - Rob the seller had said there was an issue with the fuel pump - well I think it has become a terminal issue. I tried using the hand priming lever for about 5 minutes with no noticeable effect. I will try again tomorrow with the outlet pipe disconnected just to verify but I do believe the fuel pump is dead. A repair kit and a replacement are now on order from Tarmot.

In addition after a few minutes of churning over on the starter a large puddle of rusty water appeared on the drive apparently originating from the rear of the engine. Pete tells me the lower bell housing needs a hole drilled into it as it fills with water and gawd knows we had enough rain recently to do that!! So hopefully it was that being emptied by the engine spinning rather than a blown hose.




Now - electrical... The achilles heel of 469's.... As stated I have that mismatch in the rear light bulbs to sort out. I also have no indicators at all. Possibly because there are no bulbs in the two side repeaters?? I am assuming these are same as the 21w bulbs as used in the rear lights.

Also the complete set of bulb holders + associated wiring are missing from the auxiliary instrument panel, I have - I think - located the red wire that should feed them. Still got three or four wires unaccounted for. And the green and far red light atop the auxiliary panel aren't working - at least they do not come on when the ignition goes on. The one nearest the steering wheel does though. I think I need to get hold of the correct "pull on, push off headlight switch and a fan switch. Rob brought two switches back from his trip to the East - but both are the fuel gauge change over type though.

Oh might need a sender in one tank too - flick the switch and the gauge goes to full deflection!!!

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Day 3 - a lot of graft for very little visible results but a lot actually got done.



First off the passenger side rear wheel came off to try and find the chassis number that is supposed to be stamped on the chassis rail. Guess what - it wasn't there!!! :(






So while the wheel was off I whipped the drum off to check the brakes - they looked OK to me so I may well leave replacing the cylinders and shoes for a while especially as locating the other pair of front cylinders for a Czech built model is proving problematical..






Working on the basis that sometimes line workers can do the oddest things (based on 34 years on Fords manufacturing staffs) I had a look on the other side - but no, no chassis number there either.






Anyways - wheel was off so I checked those brakes too - these also look fine to me for now.






Next job was to remove the defunct fuel pump for repairs/replacement - interestingly it looks nothing like the ones on offer from either Tarmot or on eBay!!!!

This is the one that came off:









This is the type Tarmot have now:






Will have to order one of those I think.



Once the pump was out I took the 240 grade wet 'n dry to the engine bay to tidy that up then treated the rust before applying a coat of paint:












That's the best I can do with the engine in-situ. If (when?) it has to come out then I will repeat the exercise all over for the entire engine bay.

Once done and the brushes cleaned I turned back to the dashboard and the electrics. Oh joy........... NOT!!!

After some extensive digging the state of play is as follows:



  • * Contrary to the manual I only have 3 warning lights at the top of the dash. The blue main beam warning seems to be in the speedo head.
    * Of the three lights I have - only the one nearest the steering wheel works. I am assuming this is the charging one.
    * The green one which should be the indicators has a heavy gauge blue wire coming out of it, the end of which is dangling by the steering wheel with a bare end, no terminal on it.
    * The light to the far right - also red - is just an empty shell, no bulb holder on connections to it.
    * The indicators do not work - period. Whether it is because the warning light is disconnected or because the side repeaters are missing the bulbs remains to be determined.
    * Main beam on the headlights does not seem to work - at least, the warning light does not work. Hard to tell in bright sunshine and without the engine running if the lights are changing. A proper light switch is on order from Tarmot and I will use the one at top left of the dash currently in use for the spotlight.
    * Oil pressure gauge is constantly reading mid point on the gauge - even with the power off.
    * Fuel gauge goes to maximum deflection when either tank is selected returning to zero in the middle position. I do not believe I have 2 full tanks of fuel. :)
    * Of the two white push buttons above the instruments the one nearest the wheel appears to have a brown wire and a grey wire attached - the brown wire I think goes through the bulkhead to the screen wash pump but the grey is hanging loose going nowhere..
    The other push button has one wire attached from the loom and a yellow wire with a ring terminal on it hanging loose. I tried connecting the ring to earth and pressing the button but nothing happened so I have no idea what that is for.
    * The red lead that feeds power to the instrument has a a spare connector on it that is of course live when the ignition is on.
    * There is a pink lead hanging from the loom with a female spade connector on it but is dead, no power at all.
    * There is a light blue lead coming out from the bottom of the heater that has a ring terminal on it - obviously dead.
    * There a green wire coming from the loom that appears cut - dead, no power to it.
    * There are two green wires hanging down from the loom down by the heater with female spade connectors on, one seemingly slightly smaller than the other - both dead.
    There is a violet lead coming from the loom with a demale spade connector on it - again, dead electrically.
    * the switch for the reading light had a red wire going to the socket in the passenger footwell, a yellow lead going up to the light itself and another yellow lead with a ring connector on it hanging free.


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I've come to the conclusion I would be better off rewiring the 469 than trying to make sense of the hodge-podge of wiring, particularly under the dash, So - after overcoming the hurdle of not being able to find a Xzech specific wiring diagram that had the 3 wire rear lights I settled for the one diagram I had that included colour codes - an East German one Spent a couple of hours listing ever circuit, it's like rating and colour code then today trawled the web and found a few companies doing vehicle cabling etc. This place seemed to be the best as regards choice and price: http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu

Sortied out the order - another £80 and it should be here day after tomorrow. Using their recommendation of the normal 8.5A rated cable for most things but upping it to the 17.5A rating one for the headlights and things like the ammeter and starter feeds.

Also heard from Tarmot over in Poland - the parts bundle inc. new fuel pump will be arriving via UPS tomorrow afternoon.

Looking over the wiring again today - I need one of these - the dashboard top warning light bulb holder - urgently so if anyone has a spare they'd like to sell - I am interested!!:






And whilst getting that out to photograph it I got another object lesson in why a re-wire is so badly needed :) With the ignition in the "On" position that bare wire is live!!!:






Looks like being a busy week this week - lets hope the weather holds

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And whilst getting that out to photograph it I got another object lesson in why a re-wire is so badly needed :) With the ignition in the "On" position that bare wire is live!!!:



That reminds me of another vehicle we both know! :D



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After an afternoons work the UAZ lives again. The new fuel pump from Tarmot works perfectly - actuator arm was at the same angle as the old one. Only issues were:



  • * There was no gasket supplied either with the pump or in the repair kit I ordered for the old pump. So I reused the old gasket and resorted to a coat of blue Hylomar to ensure a good seal.
    * The holes for the bolts at first looked too small - trying to fit the bolts in was a no-go. However trying them from the reverse gave a good fit and on close examination I found a metal flash over the outer edge of the holes. 5 minutes with a round file removed it and the bolts then fitted properly.



Once bolted up tight I transferred the elbow unions over from the old pump and hooked up the fuel lines. You may notice the inlet and outlet ports are in different places so I had to be a bit creative in hooking up the inlet line.






Before fitting the pump to carb line I used the manual prime lever to fill the system - 5 pumps of the lever and I had a strong jet of fuel spurt out of the outlet. Once the carb fuel line was fitted I gave it another 3 or 4 pumps to get the carb float filled and then hit the starter. Took a few attempts to start after so long - kept catching then dying - but eventually the engine burst into sustained life:




Once she was running I noticed that with the lights turned off completely the passenger side sidelight was on all the time.






With the side lights turned on - or head and sidelight this changed so that the drivers side side light was on - but the passenger side brake light at the rear and indicator at the front were on!! No front sidelights at all and no main beam option. Something is truly screwed somewhere!!









I also noticed that, whilst running water was coming out of the radiator cap - not good, hopefully just the rad cap needing replacement.






Whilst I let it warm up I had a look under the dash at the wiring. Oh my gawd!! I seem to have acquired a fuse panel that is not shown on the wiring diagram with some hefty fuses in it.






The red lead coming in at top right seems to be the power supply - I am guessing from the ignition switch - but I have no idea yet where the feed-out leads go - next job will be to trace them back to their destinations



Above this is a 3 way splitter again - not sure what it is for or what the wiring comes from/goes to!






Above the steering column is this multi-plug - no idea what it does but I have a nasty feeling it was the connector for the indicator switch, the holes in the metal above are the ones in front of the windscreen on the drivers side - no idea what they were for either:






What I cannot find is the direction indicator relay - which is also kind of worrying. However I admit to total ignorance here on East Bloc design - it is possible that relay maybe somewhere under the bonnet and not under the dash!!



Light switch also came - that is temporarily fitted to the dash to see where it goes. Looks like I need a grub screw to lock the knob in place though - I am thinking maybe 3mm or 4 mm.

I also ordered the heater fan switch for the other hole in the dash but I think Tarmot have sent the wrong type - need to check with them :) :






Lastly the roof tensioning straps were fitted, two long and one short - I routed the two long ones that go to the front of the vehicle through the upper pair of loops on the windscreen. Wasn't sure if should have been this pair or the lower ones.

As the vehicle will still be sitting for a while until I can get the brake bleeding, electrics and road registration sorted out I left the cats cradle of rope in place above the rear compartment as added reinforcement.







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Don't forget there are a load of mic. bits here still for Little Maud Andy :)


Weren't you supposed to be organising a family outing to the Spinnaker Tower, wink, wink, nudge, nudge? ;)


(And perhaps that multiplug is for the flasher relay?)



Edited by andym
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  • 2 weeks later...

OK - despite having ascertained that the wiring in the vehicle on my drive bears little resemblance to any known wiring diagram and colour codes we have some progress. :laugh:

The auxiliary instrument bulb holders arrived from Poland (Tarmot.pl - excellent suppliers if you have a UAZ!!) and were wired in with bulbs and the side repeater seals were fitted so that is two less leak into the front footwells.


With this done it became time to turn attention to the dreaded electrics. The new light switch was in the same order as the fuel pump etc. so the other day I bit the bullet and started probing with a meter to find out which of the loose wires behind the dash did what...... Sounds simple - trust me - it wasn't. Mainly due to the fact the wiring loom in mine - as stated - bears little or no resemblance in the colour used to any of the known wiring diagrams. Still - after a day of probing and the odd spark I found the big push button on top of the dash nearest the steering wheel was wired through to the screen wash pump but could find no circuit for the one beside it. Charging light worked OK - bulb holder for the overheating light was missing so a replacement is enroute, FOC, from the Ukraine. Ammeter worked - but one lead got red hot., Investigation showed the lead had a crimped union that was only barely making contact. so this was cut out and a replacement connector fitted - a lot less heat now. At the end of the day I had identifies about 90% of the wiring connections that were loose behind the IP. That left the pathways through the switch to work out. A lot of trial and error later I had the pathways - or so I thought. Fitted it, turned on the ignition - and found the switch getting red hot and smoking!! A lot more investigating later revealed that I had the power hooked up the wrong side of the panel lights rheostat. A quick swap around and all was working well. I now have working side lights and tail lights as well as main and dip beam via the foot change switch. Also the map reading light now works as it takes its feed from the light switch.



(ignore the side light on the drivers side - bulb was blown!! Now replaced and working fine)

What didn't help was the (in)famous Soviet era quality control - two new rear lamp clusters were fitted - and I found they were wired differently internally so that when the side lights were turned on I had one tail light and one brake light illuminated. A few minutes trial and error got two tail lights as required.

That left the horn, brake lights and indicators.


Brake light switch seems to be a pressure operated one situated in the brake lines so to check the brake lights the brakes had to be bled after a new master cylinder had been fitted. We did this this afternoon - daughter Mk 1 was in charge of pedal pumping and reservoir topping up. End result we now have brakes that stop the vehicle nicely - although the lake of brake servo will mean some serious readjustments to driving. However there are no brake lights. and I lost my unwilling assistant to horse riding. So tomorrow it will be a case of getting underneath again and checking with a continuity meter to see if I get a circuit when the pedal is pressed. If I do then the power feed needs to be checked to make sure 12v is reaching the switch followed by a continuity test to make sure there is a path to the rear light. This circuit is pretty basic after all.


A new horn had already been obtained and the first issue was to locate where the hell it was meant to go. Luckily last night I was looking through a parts manula that actually hade an exploded underbonet view that included the sub-loom that runs across under the slam panel - and there were the two electrical connectors for the horm A closer look today showed that what i thought was a part of the hood latching mechanism was in actual fact the back bracket of the horn bent up at nearly 80 deg. So something has gone through the front, if not the radiator as well - in the past. A few minute work got this old bracket taken off and the new horn connected up and wired in.



Pushing the horn button did nothing but on the off change I took the yellow lead with ring terminal that came from the second big push button, held it to a bit of bare metal and pushed the button. Result was one loud beep. So I will connect the ring terminal for the earth on this and the earth for the indicator warning light to one of the bolts on the speed head bracket when it is refitted. Waiting now for the bulb holders to arrive to fit the speedo illumination and hi-beam warning light first.



The real nightmare is going to be the indicators........First off I find that the #2 under-bonnet fuse assembly is missing and the holder looks damaged so a new assembly is on order Then , having found what I think is the relay it seems to requires two plugs - an 8 pin and a 3 pin. The 8 pin is there and seems OK The three pin was missing - I think I found the cut off plug this afternoon in a box of odds 'n sods that came with the vehicle. However I cannot find the part of the loom it had been cut from. Power relays to the blade pug via the 3 blade from the missing #2 fuse

This is the relay bolted to the drivers footwell on the "A" pillar:



and the top view:



This is the cut off plug:



It has a Black, a Green and what looks like ether a faded Brown or a Mauve wire in it. Circuit diagrams reckon they should be White, Red and Grey - white going to the dashboard light, Red to the #2 fuse and grey to the 8 blade port.

So tomorrow it will be a case of trying to find out with the meter where on earth the 3 blade was cut from and how to rewire it given none of the plugs carry any markings at all.


Once this is done the UAZ will be ready to undergo the first test at an MoT station - another step along the way of returning to to the road.

Edited by ArtistsRifles
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Yes - there are different colours which is a great improvement over all-white British AFV looms. Sadly the colours do not match the wiring diagrams for the various countries. I think I am lucky if maybe 10% of them are close.

Still - either way makes for a challenge and resulting good feelings when you crack the puzzle and things start to work as they should!! :D:D


As of this morning I have working brake lights - seems one of the push-on connectors to the brake light switch wasn't on properly so a few seconds fixed that followed by a few minutes shuffling Lucars in the rear toolboxes as I had a brake light one side and an indicator the other. I now have all brake lights. That leave the number plate light to sort out - inc. where to put the UK plate as they are rather bigger than their Soviet counterparts and the trailer socket to verify. Oh - and the biggest nightmare of all - the indicators !! :wow:

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Another grounded day as the daughter had gone to see the boyfriend down in Fleet so muggins was dog sitting again. However the day was not wasted- as the OH went shopping she was given strict instructions to come back with a curved upholstery needle so I can sew the split seats up and then I did a few odd-jobs in between making sure Erin the lurcher didn't munch her way through all the shoes in the house......

First off I finished blocking the holes in the scuttle to stop as many water leaks as possible - esp. the ones right above that after=market fuse panel....... I used small bolts with a dollop of sealant on the inside mating face of the body washer then coated all with a couple of layers of green paint:




Then I set about the number plate lights. It was a pleasant surprise to find the one on there for the Soviet/Czech military plates had the bulbs inside and all that was needed was a feed from the light to the side light circuit. I fitted the feed wire, hooked up to the light by not the loom yet. Then I knocked up a twin cable loom - feed and earth - that is cable tied to the spare wheel mounting arm so that I can fit a carrier plate to the jerry can holder for the UK civil plate:







I ran the cable into the body via the hole beside the reflector then hooked the end of the earth feed onto one of the bolts holding the tail light cluster in place. The feed wire was routed out through the hole all the other cables run through then across under the body to the drivers side and up in with the feed wire from the other number plate light. Plan is to use a scotch-lok connector to splice these two into the sidelight feed.




I think the set-up looks reasonably neat. Now I just need to get hold of some thin - 3mm maybe - sheet or board to make a number plate carrier that I can fix to the jerry can holder frame using P clips and then fix the number plate light and number plate (once I get one!!) to that.



That then leaves the indicators - which are proving a right nightmare to sort out!!! :(

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