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Stalwart FFR


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I heard that they mounted the wheel station to a support rig and then fitted the vehicle to the wheel station. :cool2:   trevor

Caption contest?!!   Stollies making love in the open air...:red:

Hi there if you embrace the discipline of reversing 2 vehicle lengths after you have been driving on the road you will preserve the rest of your tracta joints and bevel gears.   You will save yourse

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MK 1 stalwarts had grease nipples on the ball joints and it is easy to convert MK 2 ball joints to grease nipples.

Judging by the photo from my thread from another site used earlier in this thread you should have the information to do it.

Just ensure you drill dead centre on the back of the ball joint as you have to miss a spring inside the ball joint.

Grease will take time to completely get its way around the working surfaces of the ball joint, so little grease often is good.

The ball joint filled with grease will water proof it dust boot or not

I used 1\4 UNF threads and grease nipples as they are small and the rest of the vehicle is UNF

Ron

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Yes Ron I have read your thread on your stalwart with great interest . Once I cleaned the joints up and tested them as in the Emers they came out good which was a relief .

 

I have been thinking about the grease nipple mod you did.

Unfortunately Dust boots are a requirement in the UK if you use on the roads tracking some down was the hardest part.

 

john

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  • 2 weeks later...

Rebuilt / cleaned air system.

 

The bleed valve was gunged up. Not sure what the governor was set to but it was also gunged up reset to 120psi.

 

The cabin valve diaphragm was split and inop cut a new and reset to 65psi. The wiper switch was leaking and the main wiper too. fixed those leaks and rebuilt the airpacks found a loose pipe in the hull and now she holds and builds pressure well.

 

Brakes bleed and tested but still seem a little spongy.

 

Clutch is right at the bottom of the pedal need to investigate.

 

tanks out next to find noisy bevel box...

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IMG_0544.jpg Needed to get to the front bevel gearboxes.

fuel tank out , hydraulic tank out. found the steering inline filter punctured .... and 1 knackered bevel gear box input...

 

10 pfennigs, 1 wheel nut ,1 knob for the winch drain compartment , 1 3/8 allen key and a windscreen wiper blade.

IMG_0538.jpg

IMG_0539.jpg

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While you have the tanks out you should consider fitting some sort of drive disconnect on the front drive shafts.

It is impossible to do with the tanks in at a later date for the front.

It is a very worthwhile mod and lifts the machines performance on road and saves wear a tear.

 

Google Empire trading for Tim Vibert Australia for the ball joint boots.

 

He has much ex Hong Kong Saracen stock much of which inter changes with the Stalwart.

Ron.

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I have been thinking about it Ron. But how do you support the drive shaft when its disconnected?

 

The shaft is thinner after the splines so you would have to pack a bearing out .

 

John

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you have to fit support bearings to each drive shaft...not overly difficult to do...I think of all the mods this is worth it as in my experience the front two wheels seem to take the most stick...but if your not planning on doing thousands of miles why bother. its a great engineering problem, I would love to do it to one of mine, maybe on the diesel unit, maybe...

would be a strange drive with just the middle two wheels driving...but bet it would run a bit quicker, only a tad. rolling resistance wont change that much but must be easier if the wheels are free wheeling. load on the bevel box wont be much more severe I would have thought and you would certainly unload the drive line...bet you could even get 4 mpg out of her...

 

service the hand brake too...and the drive mechanism for the speedo..., I fitted a second bilge pump in there too for when i dare to take it swimming.

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The shafts don't have to be supported by a extra bearing.

You machine the existing muff coupling so it supports the shaft without driving on the splines.

You also add a ring onto the out side of the muff coupling so a engagement fork of your own design can move the muff coupling.

 

Extra support can be added by fabricating a threaded sleeve to replace one of the bearing locking nuts on the bevel box and the sleeve is long enough to support the outside of the muff coupling engaged or not.

 

The drive disconnect provides much better performance on road and better steering due to the reduction of wind up.

Here in Australia we have a Stalwart that cruises at 100 kph with transfer case gearing mods and a standard motor.

It is only possible to do those speeds due to the reduction of wind up with four disconnects fitted.

The disconnects used do not have the drive shalfs supported with a extra bearing and they spin much faster than a standard Stalwart.

This 100 kph plus Stalwart has done thousands of kilometres on Australian highways and can run odd size worn tyres front or rear.

The extra bilge pump is worthwhile as is checking out the speedo and parking brake.

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cool we need more infop on that truck...thousands of miles at 2-4 mpg he needs big pockets, in the UK...1000 miles costs roughly 500x 6.50 or around 3250, to about 1700 pounds per...not a cheap exercise...but please tell us more..

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Here in Australia we have a Stalwart that cruises at 100 kph with transfer case gearing mods and a standard motor.

It is only possible to do those speeds due to the reduction of wind up with four disconnects fitted.

The disconnects used do not have the drive shalfs supported with a extra bearing and they spin much faster than a standard Stalwart.

This 100 kph plus Stalwart has done thousands of kilometres on Australian highways and can run odd size worn tyres front or rear.

The extra bilge pump is worthwhile as is checking out the speedo and parking brake.

 

 

Hi Ron,

I have seen that Stalwart on several occasions. Having worked on Stalwarts since the late Seventies and pretty familiar with them. I have doubts about raising the overall gearing as it raises ratio of bottom gear when you want to do any off road work like climbing river banks. Great if you only drive on the road. Other thing I noticed when it was in the river is its inability to get over sand banks in low water, I assume because it is only driving on centre wheels. I never asked the owner how he engages front and rear wheels, it appeared that they were not driving when in the water.

 

Not sure about using the pinion splines for engaging coupling, a dog clutch would be more sensible.

 

regards, Richard

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The steering at 100kph must also be very interesting....I have a spare transfer box and a gearbox, pehaps get a different ratio, fitted and away you go...yes for off road maybe not perfect but for shows and things mega....I have a perkins engine with turb, about 220 bhp I think, good torque, so would be better with a higher ratio...

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It certainly is an interesting engineering dilemma.

 

Space is tight.

 

I can see why people have used the existing muff but alignment would be difficult you certainly would have to stop,engage drive lift clutch and hope it slides in clean.

 

The wear on the splines would increase dramatically if you didn't have full contact but I suppose you would only engage it when you needed it (hardly ever).

 

I cant get my head around Ron's suggestion of machining the muff to support the drive shaft when not engaged.

 

its a big old bit of steel.

 

John

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Hi Ron,

I have seen that Stalwart on several occasions. Having worked on Stalwarts since the late Seventies and pretty familiar with them. I have doubts about raising the overall gearing as it raises ratio of bottom gear when you want to do any off road work like climbing river banks. Great if you only drive on the road. Other thing I noticed when it was in the river is its inability to get over sand banks in low water, I assume because it is only driving on centre wheels. I never asked the owner how he engages front and rear wheels, it appeared that they were not driving when in the water.

 

Not sure about using the pinion splines for engaging coupling, a dog clutch would be more sensible.

 

regards, Richard[/lagoon.

 

Hi Richard.

That stalwart I have personally seen climb up out of the water and climb a 2 foot earth vertical bank from a standing start.

I used to think that the taller gearing would cause driving issues...........unloaded it appears not.

That stalwart had other problems not related to the gearing trying to get though the mouth of the lagoon.

Owners in the UK have shown the way with using the muff couplings as clutches.

If a extra support bearing is used, it must be a split self aligning type and is extremely expensive.

If the muff coupling movement is correctly controlled and the mods are done right the extra bearing is not needed.

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Raising the transferase gear ratios requires Four large gears to be cut with lots of time ,expense and effort which is not a option for most people.

The decrease in ratio was something like 40% and its first gear is now somewhere between the first and second gear of a standard Stalwart.

The 60 mph is done at comfortable RPMs and on LPGas.

Steering improves with the front and rear wheels disconnected.

The real issuse with the 60 mph Stalwart has been gear train noise and much insulation has been added.

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