Austin Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 Hello to all on HMVF! This thread is to document my brother Aaron's Bedford RL restoration. We purchased it unseen from ebay, with a view to restoring and rallying the vehicle. It was described as running and driving, but needing a battery and petrol, when it was delivered we found the engine had seized due to being stood. Ebay picture attached. We hope to use the restoration to further our welding and fab skills, so any tips or ideas will be taken onboard! Thanks, Austin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Austin Posted November 18, 2013 Author Share Posted November 18, 2013 I'll add a few more pictures of progress that we've made. Oil bath air filter was full of water/oil emulsion so was removed from the truck for a clean-up and repaint. The air filter element has been cleaned in parts wash solvent and petrol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooky Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 Interesting it has not got an AFS reg number Must have been re registered at some stage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Austin Posted November 18, 2013 Author Share Posted November 18, 2013 Yes Brooky, it was reregistered in 1994. Most still seem to be still on SFX registrations. The logbook still needs to be applied for, although it was shown as being taxed until last month. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Austin Posted November 20, 2013 Author Share Posted November 20, 2013 Just getting upto date with a couple of pictures, the first is Aaron using twisted wire wheel on the angle grinder on thw spare wheel carrier. The second is a cleaned up twin jerry can holder, and painted in etch primer. Does anybody have any doors for sale? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marvinthemartian Posted November 20, 2013 Share Posted November 20, 2013 After etch priming, I recommend a good coat of a zinc rich primer too, to keep the nasty rust at bay for a bit longer. Keep at it, and put up lots of pics too. Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Austin Posted November 20, 2013 Author Share Posted November 20, 2013 Thanks Simon, we had noticed that in a few places that have been stripped and etched were starting to show a little surface rust after about 3 weeks. Obviously, we want to keep rust away as best as possible but keep a standard gloss look to the chassis (no underseat or stone chip type paints). We are doing the work outside until a unit becomes available. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marvinthemartian Posted November 20, 2013 Share Posted November 20, 2013 That'll be no problem, plenty of primer, and a good few coats of topcoat, will last quite a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Austin Posted November 20, 2013 Author Share Posted November 20, 2013 Thanks again Simon, I must say, we've been following your martian resto thread and can only hope to achieve that standard on this Bedford. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Austin Posted December 1, 2013 Author Share Posted December 1, 2013 Quick little update, we have bought a full manual for the R series trucks, so now know what various oils we need. Anybody able to tell us what the modern equivalent OMD 330 is? The pictures attached are of the old grill badge and the new one, again bought from everybody's favourite auction site, it came on a replacement top grill panel too, which is a huge bonus as the original had rotted the whole bottom off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Degsy Posted December 2, 2013 Share Posted December 2, 2013 From previous discussions it seems that straight SAE90 {not EP} is the stuff to use. Morris do a suitable oil which I have used for years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyFowler Posted December 2, 2013 Share Posted December 2, 2013 From previous discussions it seems that straight SAE90 {not EP} is the stuff to use. Morris do a suitable oil which I have used for years. Many many many years ! :-D:-D:-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Austin Posted December 2, 2013 Author Share Posted December 2, 2013 Thanks Degsy, I'll get some on order. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Degsy Posted December 2, 2013 Share Posted December 2, 2013 Many many many years ! :-D:-D:-D That's true Andy and let me tell you this bloody old age isn't all it's cracked up to be:( .....the only consolation is all you young whippersnappers have got it all to come:-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Degsy Posted December 2, 2013 Share Posted December 2, 2013 Thanks Degsy, I'll get some on order. You're welcome, there will be a local stockist near you, they are usually quite a bit cheaper than the direct prices quoted on Morris' website. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyFowler Posted December 2, 2013 Share Posted December 2, 2013 That's true Andy and let me tell you this bloody old age isn't all it's cracked up to be:( .....the only consolation is all you young whippersnappers have got it all to come:-D I liked Mr Dimbleby's quote when recently asked about his new tattoo " You're only old once " :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Degsy Posted December 2, 2013 Share Posted December 2, 2013 I liked Mr Dimbleby's quote when recently asked about his new tattoo " You're only old once " :-D Yeah, once too often:-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted December 2, 2013 Share Posted December 2, 2013 (edited) Quick little update, we have bought a full manual for the R series trucks, so now know what various oils we need. Anybody able to tell us what the modern equivalent OMD 330 is? OMD330 is actually a straight SAE50 engine oil and used in the gearbox, and I recollect it continued to be used in the MK and MJ gearboxes too. Edited December 3, 2013 by Richard Farrant reworded to make sense Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duncan76 Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 Just getting upto date with a couple of pictures, the first is Aaron using twisted wire wheel on the angle grinder on thw spare wheel carrier. The second is a cleaned up twin jerry can holder, and painted in etch primer. Does anybody have any doors for sale? Hi there! Looks good, always a nice feeling to see progress! Interesting that it has a spare wheel carrier as many AFS vehicles did not as the bodywork was slightly different to military RLs with wooden lockers underneath the main body. I co-own an ex-AFS RL petrol carrier which dates from the mid-60s and the spare has to live in the back as there is no space to even fit a spare wheel carrier on it! I wonder whether yours has at some stage lost the original body and had the carrier added or if a replacement AFS cab has been placed onto an ex-MOD chassis? You can see the lockers on the petrol carrier on both sides: The badge looks good - I had the one on my green goddess re-chromed (at some expense!) but it does finish the front off nicely. Interesting you're in Downholland in Lancs, too - my parents live that way and at least part of the fleet still lives up there! Cheers, Duncan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
croc Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 You might have a point there Duncan, MOD chassis with Home Office cab. What length is the chassis? Just looking at info in handbooks reveals that; RLC (MOD Chassis cab) = 246 inch. RLB RLD (MOD Cargo / Charging body) = 250.4 inch. RLW (MOD Chassis cab with winch) = 249.6 inch. RLF (MOD Cargo body with winch) = 259.6 inch. RLH (Home Office chassis) = 268.1 inch. I think this is an RLC (B/D) chassis as it has the low spare wheel carrier. The extra length in the RLW looks to be due to winch fairleads and the RLF body has the spare wheel fitted between the cab and body (the low spare carrier would foul the winch) causing a longer overhang at the back. The Home Office body is longer but not as wide as the MOD type. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Austin Posted December 4, 2013 Author Share Posted December 4, 2013 (edited) Hi Duncan, That's an interesting point regarding the rear body, we've been looking at various pictures and have noticed that we have an unusual set-up regarding locker boxes, spare wheel carrier and curved rear mudguards. We do have a contract number on a tag on the dashboard, but a quick google search revealed nothing. I have attached a picture. The text reads BODY CONTRACT No 6/VEH/20602/CB 27. Also Duncan, if you are ever in the area, the kettle is always on so call in for a cuppa! Austin. EDIT - I'll get the measuring tape and see what length ours is tonight. Thanks for the info Croc! Edited December 4, 2013 by Austin I hadn't seen Croc's post before replying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Austin Posted December 5, 2013 Author Share Posted December 5, 2013 The weldathon continues....I'm not patching any rusty holes, I'm cutting out the rusted areas and welding fresh steel in, Im not really an experienced welder or fabricator, but have a good MIG and lots of grinding disks to clean up the bird poo! In the first piece you can see the previous panel I had started to weld in, but I wasn't happy so cut out a new larger section. Second picture is all welding done (for today!). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minidaffy Posted December 5, 2013 Share Posted December 5, 2013 Hi Looks Good...but the best thing you will ever do for your welding is clean all the paint and rust from around where your welding!! in the photo is doesn't look like you have! keep up the good work. kind regards Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Austin Posted December 5, 2013 Author Share Posted December 5, 2013 Thanks Martin, you're right about the paint, I had cleaned the surrounding area of the original panel, but forgot to clean it up after cutting for the new piece. :blush: :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Austin Posted April 3, 2014 Author Share Posted April 3, 2014 Update time. We've been quite busy with the truck since my last post, with lots of welding, sanding and painting... I'll let the pictures do the talking. For the left side it was good enough to repair rather than replace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.