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Bedford MWD restoration

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  • 3 weeks later...

Managed to get some hours on the truck today.


Doesn't look much but the sump, gearbox and most of the ancillarys are now fitted.



And all the fiddly hard to get at bits done before the rad goes back in.



Floor back in helps it looks like it's coming back 😁

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Meant to go to the Dallas digout then the 4x4 sale but was so close to running the new engine I just had to get down't t'shed and eventually after fitting the rad filling various things with various fluids fitting the prop shaft and exhaust pipe it was time to press the tit or rather pull it in the case of the MW.

Struggling to add video will try again later.


Not much of a pic just topping up the rad prior to  running, I removed all the spark plugs and turned the engine over on the starter untill the oil pressure light went out before ignition.

Believe it or not it fired up straight off though I'd forgotten to connect the choke cable, after that was sorted it run very nicely though the tappets will need adjusting but run out of time again



Edited by rampant rivet
Ad pic.
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Nuther full on day in't and ooot of t'shed first job was to tighten up the head bolts and warm the engine prior to setting the tappet gaps, while waiting for the engine to get up to working temp I made up an extension to the lead on my timing strobe light as it' a bu##er to reach the battery in the cab.


Hopefully here's the video of it running.

Then time to reffit the front panel but before I did I replaced the new rubbing strip with the original ones I took off yonks ago I think they look better and I also replaced the brass coated steel bifurcated rivets with more suitable sized examples. 



Then bumper and brush guard to be bolted up and after setting the tappet gaps the timing was set up using timing lamp then it was time to pull the old girl out of t'shed first to check clutch adjustment then to give better access to the brake master cylinder as the front system needed bleeding, plus the seats and rifle butt holders needed fitting. 


Bonnet on and it really starts to look better.


Next session will be reconnecting headlights and indicators etc plus fit the cab canvas. With the panels attached the engine sounds  f#cking luuvly 😎can't wait to get some miles on the clock roll on summer 😁

Edited by rampant rivet
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Took it for a spin down the drive yesterday only to have it spew coolant out of the rad FFS ! Ok quick search last night through the resto threads on here and today replaced the spring inside the top of the rad and  set the level of the castelated nut as per manual remembering to seal the nut, plus replaced old thermostat with a NOS. one and hey ho ! no more problem ...... so far, then replaced the handbrake spring and made bckt for the accelerator spring thingy.


Little difficult to see but it's the grey painted part between / behind the pair of oil lines.

Next job was to investigate why the charging light wouldn't light up when the ignition was switched on, this turned out to be a duff bulb, then it was time to investigate why I had no side or headlights working this was traced to blown fuses and dirty contacts in the fuse holder.

Then the moment to see if it all works as it should, half a dozen laps of the feild first before venturing out down the lane and back. 







I guess thats about it apart from maybe blowing over the rear body to get a better colour match, possibly fitting blackout masks to the headlamps and making the bow hoops for the rear canvas, 5 years and it's been a blast and I'd like to thank everyone thats helped me with this project wether it was spare parts or good advice it's much appreciated 😀

Now what's the first show ? Caldicot castle wartime wheels event is not too far for a first attempt 😁

Edited by rampant rivet
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Correct black-out precautions for 1940 would simply be the manilla card with semi-circular cutout placed behind the glass (and in theory a half-painted reflector).....although documentary and anecdotal evidence suggests that the BEF had generally gone over to blue painted glass by May 1940. This example with 52nd (Lowland) Div is 2nd BEF so fresh from the UK

Bedford 52 Div.jpg

Edited by 79x100
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2 hours ago, 79x100 said:

Correct black-out precautions for 1940 would simply be the manilla card with semi-circular cutout placed behind the glass (and in theory a half-painted reflector).....although documentary and anecdotal evidence suggests that the BEF had generally gone over to blue painted glass by May 1940. This example with 52nd (Lowland) Div is 2nd BEF so fresh from the UK

Thanks for that peice of info intereting to see the plate with 22 stenciled on it as my truck has two holes drilled in the brush bar in exactly the same position again something to add in the future.


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  • 2 weeks later...
On 5/6/2018 at 7:53 PM, Chris_Collins said:

Hello Jeremy,


It was great to meet up today and have a chat and a few mug fulls of Char, your Bedford is an absolute gem and it was a real pleasure to met you, your mates and your lovely wife. Hope you have a great weekend and a safe trip back home.



Thanks Chris 

It was very nice to meet you and talk rivets etc for awhile, thanks for helping with the firewood 😎


Avin a brew 😁

The truck went well for it's first time out to Caldicot castle wartime wheels event some slight adjustments to carb or timing to remove a flat spot and the return journey was better still. 


Its very different from the champ thing but once the engine is run in and things settle down it' going to be a great little beast 😎 30 miles in.



It never fails to amuse me how much food, booze, cooker, tents etc etc you need for a couple of days at a show. It's nice to have a decent sized truck to lug it all around in now instead of trying to stuff it into the champ thing.

The show itself was very good the weather was even better 


Some idea of interest in the gun display put on by my good old mates 😁

Edited by rampant rivet
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Having managed to borrow a 12 ton tube bender I thought it about time I sorted the rear bow hoops for the canvas.


First job to form six 8" radius  curved sections then I cobbled up a jig to hold the upright tubes in position and put a slight kink in the top bow for strength and to help shed rainwater.


Had some steel tube which was a tight fit that I used as a dowel to add strength and help  keep the joint true.


Three hours and three sets ready for welding, the uprights are over long to enable me to adjust the height of the canvas to suit the rear body.


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Hi Jeremy

Interested to know the type of tube bender you borrowed as most of the modern ones are metric, and are designed to do smaller radii. I assume the tube is 1" 10swg, the normal  linternal  bend raduis used for this would be 4" (like that used on the cab canvas). I still  have to make up the hops for mine, fortunately I have access to some real heavy duty pipe benders.



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Hi Richard 

Will post a pic tomorrow I used a 4" mandrel to fit 1" pipe, I drew a 7.5" radius on a peice of ply then carefully bent the tube in half a dozen places untill it matched the rad on the ply, repeat the process over and over it's a bit fiddly and time consuming but I couldn't find anyone who could produce an 8" centre line radius bend so I did my own, had loads of spare tube as I bought enough to do the cab as well but as I found an original set I didn't need it all .

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