Ron Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 If those first forks were Speedtwin. They would be too heavy for a 3/5S They should also have the yoke with the rubber handlebar mounting. I'd put money on them being Ariel (very similar to Triumph). Was that thread from the bloke who said he'd done 18 miles on Indian made forks, some of it off road????????? The original fork lugs were a steel casting or forging and the forks were properly jigged before being pinned and brazed. You will find that the Indian made lugs are cast iron and I wonder what sort of jigs are used. You pay your money and take your chance......I'll get my coat and say no more about it. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenkinov Posted April 24, 2014 Author Share Posted April 24, 2014 Oliver ..I understand your problem...in terms of quality getting spares from India is hit and miss .the issue you face is that a great number of the spares are hand crafted....I have seen welbikes copied in detail..the issue however is the parts are not tested in the same manner as modern parts ...or even old british ones, Hence you run a increased risk..fine when running on smooth tarmac but if you hit a pothole you want the fork to perform its job and not risk the fork folding or a joint fracturing....I would risk some components...I have a spare clutch on my shelf from India..but I would hesitate with buying a fork set ..... I can also see the issue you have in identifying good alternatives ..I think we can help if we can supply a series of close up photos with rulers included to help you identify key components of the forks plus sizes...at best these will help identify new forks or you can send the photos to ebay sellers to check against any forks you see for sale. Regard Jenkinov Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenkinov Posted April 24, 2014 Author Share Posted April 24, 2014 Oliver ....Any chance of a photo of what you have..in terms of your forks ...we can then concentrate our photos on your missing components ...and keep an eye out for you.. Regards Jenkinov Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenkinov Posted May 17, 2014 Author Share Posted May 17, 2014 The triumph 3sw handbook shows a triumph badge on top of the petrol tank..during the restoration process completed by Hartlepool radiators the 2 mounting holes have become visible ..I think it would be nice err to replace the badge but a few questions 1..did the military retain the badges 2 ..any photos of the badges....a ruler is nice for scale 3 ...how are they mounted...if a screw..brass or steel...size? 4 ...anyone with a spare original badge that would fit..or can point me at the correct source..or badge type Jenkinov Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Einbeck Bowl Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 This is the top of my tank. I am not sure what to think about the Triumph badge, as my 3sw had been made to look like a post war 3T or something similar. My tank is quite good inside, the only problem is removing the thick amount of chrome from the sides. Oliver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenkinov Posted May 17, 2014 Author Share Posted May 17, 2014 Einbeck...Thank you for the photo..the tank badge certainly has some age and unless anyone thinks otherwise I will use see it as my guide for hunting out my own badge. Great to hear your tank is in good shape....I have spent a long time fighting with mine ...see thread ....and have had professional help in the restoration...I should have sought it much earlier. Jenkinov Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guy66 Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 The tank badge on a 3sw sits in the middle top of the petrol tank, so your petrol tank is the right on. Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 Guy is correct. The 3/5SW has the metal badge fitted to the top of the tank. If you acquire one from the side of a pre war tank you will find it is a bit too curved to fit the flat top of the tank. But if you very very gently warm it with a gas blow lamp, you can get it to lay flat. I had to do just that. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenkinov Posted May 22, 2014 Author Share Posted May 22, 2014 Thanks Ron...can I assume that after flattening the badge you also had to drill to mount it...did you then use brass or steel bolts for mounting... Regards Jenkinov Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 No Jenk. The correct tank should have two tapped bosses set into the top of the tank. My memory is telling me 4BA.... but I might be wrong? If you haven't got the tapped holes, you could get away with small self tapping screws, backed up with Loctite heavy duty thread locker and allow to set well before adding fuel. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenkinov Posted May 27, 2014 Author Share Posted May 27, 2014 Ron..I have 2 tapped holes in the tank top....I think I have the right thread just need a couple of screws...brass..or silver and an old badge......waiting for some good weather to spray the tank.. Jenkinov Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 That's good then. I used stainless screws and lightly blasted the heads to dull them. I did the same light sand blasting to the monkey metal badge and it came up looking like dull plate. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefano Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 From what I can remember I think the triumph tank badge screws are 5BA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenkinov Posted June 3, 2014 Author Share Posted June 3, 2014 Tank is all sprayed up after a nice dry Sunday and I am just allowing it a few days to harden..I have ordered replacement knee rubbers and keeping an eye out for a suitable badge... My hard rubber 6v battery appears to be dead ... Options are to buy a replacement 6v wet cell.....any recommendations.. Or buy a replacement Lucas box and modern insert.. Or drain and dismantle the old battery and use the shell for a modern battery.. Any recommendations.... Jenkinov Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Einbeck Bowl Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 Not sure if the 6" lamp which came with my 3sw is an original, but I would prefer to replace it with a larger headlamp. Is this a Lucas DU 142 lamp in this picture and are all DU 142 8 inch lamps? And is there a source for a speedometer and how is it mounted to the front fork? Regards Oliver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
79x100 Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 The DU42 and D42 are the 6 1/2" - 7" versions (the 'U' indicates instrument panel in the shell) DU142 and D142 are the corresponding 8" - 8 1/4" lamps (with and without instruments) Those without instruments were used where panel tanks were fitted. There are at least three variations in rim clips and slightly different shells in consequence. As far as I know, there is no apparent difference in identifying number which doesn't make life easy. Beware eBay sellers who use the Lucas references interchangeably, as they do with MT110 / MT210 rear lamps and MCR1 / MCR2 cvc boxes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Einbeck Bowl Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 Does somebody have the dimensions for this part "top link H164"? I have similiar looking parts on a damaged SpeedTwin girder fork, but would need a confirmation about the measurements for the 3sw. Thanks Oliver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenkinov Posted March 18, 2015 Author Share Posted March 18, 2015 Einbeck I will check and confirm the dimensions this weekend. Jenkinov Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Einbeck Bowl Posted May 11, 2016 Share Posted May 11, 2016 Does somebody have more information about the front wheel axle, W323 in this drawing? Dimensions or even a source in Europe, for the shaft and all marked parts? Is it correct that the front shaft is much thinner in diameter, then the rear axle rod W61? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenkinov Posted May 15, 2016 Author Share Posted May 15, 2016 You can find the parts on eBay ..look for 3hw front and rear axles . I believe they are identical in size and composition .Indian manufacture .. Jenkinov Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rewdco Posted May 15, 2016 Share Posted May 15, 2016 You can find the parts on eBay ..look for 3hw front and rear axles . I believe they are identical in size and composition .Indian manufacture .. Jenkinov 171 Pounds for something that is most probably made of mild steel...? Their description is also hilarious: "Manufactured in India to the highest specifications and quality standards especially for Triumph 3HW Models Motorcycles for easy and trouble free fitment. This Spindle is lightweight, fuel efficient and low maintenance. It would give you better maneuverability, greater turning capacity, and consistent steering performance. This would fit to Triumph 3HW and many other models as reported by our Customers. " LOL! Jan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted May 15, 2016 Share Posted May 15, 2016 (edited) The spindle sizes are 7/16" at the front 9/16" at the back. Personally I'd steer clear of the Indian stuff. Ron Edited May 15, 2016 by Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guy66 Posted May 15, 2016 Share Posted May 15, 2016 ACE classics has the rear wheel spindle for sale without the bearings. The specific bearings front and rear for 3SW and 3HW are very difficult to find . Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Einbeck Bowl Posted May 15, 2016 Share Posted May 15, 2016 Thanks, the front bearings would have made it easier to have an axle produced locally. My front axle from my post-war front fork is 1mm thicker than the original 7/16, so I would also need all nut and anchor plate support nuts for the 3sw fork. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guy66 Posted May 15, 2016 Share Posted May 15, 2016 Think you will need to make it yourself ! That's the rear one I made for my 3HW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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