justinv Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 Hi, Managed to break a hub housing on a tension wheel on my friend's FV 432, got the part but still looking into the job. Anyone on here ever did this ? Also what is the difficulty level here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 I'm not sure what you mean by a "hub housing"? It's a split the track job anyway, methinks. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 Photos of what you are doing would help us help you mate R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinv Posted March 23, 2012 Author Share Posted March 23, 2012 Hi, am still new here and did not get the hang of it quite, the housing i broke is the housing which hold the tension road wheels on an FV 432 which is the last one on the track. I need to know how to release the tension from the piston. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 I'm still not sure quite what you mean and a photo would definitely be helpful! If you mean the track tensioner, there is a bolt below the grease nipple. Undo the bolt and the grease will come out, releasing the tension. This is all in the User Manual by the way, I hope you aren't trying to run the vehicle without one? :cry: Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lauren Child Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 (edited) I think he's meaning the rear idler hub? You can do a lot to the road wheels just by jacking the arm up, but I'd be wary of attempting anything on the rear idler if the track is still resting on it. Are you replacing - the big bit with the holes that the two wheels bolt onto the small bit that the goes inside this that's covered in oil the arm and peg that it all fits onto (and the tensioner piston butts up against) ? To release the tensioner piston pressure you need to undo the bolt (if you have one) or the nipple at the opposite end of the tensioner (where you nomally squirt the grease in to push it out) It's on a thread and you can undo it with a spanner. Take it out and (hopefully) the grease will squirt out (have a bowl handy). If the piston is stuck, then you need to apply some pressure to it to push it back in, that could be a bit of wood to protect the end and a hammer. If it's stuck then b efore you reassemble everything, work it in and out a few times (add nipple and squirt grease in to push out, release nipple and hammer back in) to free it up. Some penetrating oil on the piston helps as well. Edited March 23, 2012 by Lauren Child Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinv Posted March 23, 2012 Author Share Posted March 23, 2012 Yes I am replacing that bit which holds oil and is the rear idler, I have no manual and also I removed the bolt under the grease nipple but nothing came out so it should be stuck. This is not mine it belongs to a friend but I managed to break it so I have to fix it up for him. Also is there any other way to split the track without using the pin puller, as I cannot find one to buy Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lauren Child Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 (edited) OK, it's not a difficult job, but it is potentially hazardous and takes a few people. If you don't have someone with you who's worked with these things before, then you probably need to put out a call for help on the forums or to the local MVT or IMPS groups. 432's are popular so you should be close to somebody. If I remember correctly the correct sequence of events is •Make sure the vehicle is on flat ground. Chock the wheels on the other side and make sure the vehcile is not going anywhere when you release the track. •Split the track so it's not resting on the idler anymore (its very very heavy and has a lot of energy when it moves, be very very careful) •Undo the big bolt on the hub (it looks like the odd one out) and drain the oil out. •Remove the hub cover (small bolts toward the centre of the hub) •Remove the inner cover (If I remember correctly theres a sealing cover inside that screws out) •Remove the big nut under this cover (there's a locking washer the you can bend out of the way with a screwdriver and hammer) •The hub can now come off the peg (be careful - it's very heavy) •You can now swap the wheels over to the new hub. The innards are very prone to damage due to mud and dust ingress at the back of the hub (there's no seal), so check for condition on the new one before you reassemble. I can't stress enough how important it is to have some experienced help and to know what you are doing when working with track. It also needs special tools to split and re-join, so make sure you have them and know how to use them. Where in the world are you? Edited March 23, 2012 by Lauren Child Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 Sorry, but I STILL don't understand what you are trying to do. Do you mean the hub that the wheels bolt onto or the piston that moves the rear wheels backwards and forwards to tension the track? Please post a photo! Beware that if you are trying this without a manual or someone who knows what they are doing, you're in grave danger of hurting yourself and/or knackering the vehicle. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinv Posted March 23, 2012 Author Share Posted March 23, 2012 I am in Malta had ordered the housing from Marcus Glenn and have the part available in hand so it is not that difficult to replace the only doubts I have is getting the track loose as i tried pulling the pin out and have managed a bit but need the puller to get it out completly and properly. Also I still can't get my hands on a track pin puller so I am figuring a way to machine a puller myself to do the job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinv Posted March 23, 2012 Author Share Posted March 23, 2012 ANDY thanks for the advise I am taking extra care and that is why I am asking and getting opinions and help, I am replacing the hub not the piston, all I need to know is how to release the tension so I could open the track with ease, without any danger THanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lauren Child Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 Have you contacted these folks - http://maltahistoricvehicles.org/about.htm or http://www.amacs-malta.org/web/ to see if they know anyone local with tracked vehicle experience? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 I've found a suitable photo - which bit are you trying to replace? If it's just the tensioner piston assembly you don't need to split the track. Assuming you do need to split the track, if the tensioner piston won't go in once you've removed the bolt under the nipple, the easiest way is to let the vehicle do it for you - drive very slowly forward and let the track pull the piston in. Once that's done, find a way to stop the track moving once you split it, either the proper bar that sits between the return rollers or use a ratchet strap or hefty rope. You need the proper track clamps; the links must be at a ten degree angle to take the tension off the rubber bushes. Either use a drift or puller to remove the track pin. The track is very heavy and will have a mind of its own once released. This is not a one-man operation. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinv Posted March 23, 2012 Author Share Posted March 23, 2012 yes, it is that hub which the road wheels mount on i need replaced, is there any way of replacing it without removing the tracks ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lauren Child Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 (edited) I am in Malta had ordered the housing from Marcus Glenn and have the part available in hand so it is not that difficult to replace the only doubts I have is getting the track loose as i tried pulling the pin out and have managed a bit but need the puller to get it out completly and properly. Also I still can't get my hands on a track pin puller so I am figuring a way to machine a puller myself to do the job The best way that I've seen is to split the track at the front under the drive wheels. That way you can push the pin through with a drift (which means you can also control when it releases by removing the drift. The sprocket may or may not catch - don't trust it to hold the track). Later you can use the sprocket with some rope around it to wind the track back on most of the way. Make sure you've got lots of room behind the vehicle so the track can unwind all the way out and stand well clear. Make sure you leave enough track on both sides of the split so you can put the clamps on to join it back together. You will definitely need track clamps to put it back together. I would have thought Marcus Glenn can supply them if you don't have any with the vehicle. The manuals are also available from a number of places online - I'm sure one of the 432 owners on the forum can point you toward a decent photocopy. Edited March 23, 2012 by Lauren Child Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinv Posted March 23, 2012 Author Share Posted March 23, 2012 let us just hope for the best, i really wish to just get the last bit on not to drive the chain off it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lauren Child Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 This is not a one-man operation. I'd just like to echo this. You definitely can't do it on your own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 yes, it is that hub which the road wheels mount on i need replaced, is there any way of replacing it without removing the tracks ? Bizarre - I've never known that happen before. What exactly have you broken on it? Again, a photo would be very helpful. If you have broken the hub itself (the bit that carries the eight wheel bolts) then yes, you'll have to break the track at the rear to replace it. Or have you just broken the cover in the centre? Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinv Posted March 25, 2012 Author Share Posted March 25, 2012 no broke the actual thing not the cover, it is still strange how I managed to break it, i was having fun driving it around in our yard and i managed to hit a canon base plate ( over 2 tons of steel ). What I think happened is that i clipped the track with the base and the bearing broke with the result of busting the housing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lizzie Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 no broke the actual thing not the cover, it is still strange how I managed to break it, i was having fun driving it around in our yard and i managed to hit a canon base plate ( over 2 tons of steel ). What I think happened is that i clipped the track with the base and the bearing broke with the result of busting the housing How far have you actually got with this job so i can help with out wasting words. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinv Posted March 29, 2012 Author Share Posted March 29, 2012 got the new housing in hand, now trying to split the track with no puller, a friend is going to fabricate a puller for me and will try pulling the track pin with i t Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 If you've got the links at the correct ten degree angle you should just be able to tap the pin out with a drift. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinv Posted March 31, 2012 Author Share Posted March 31, 2012 yes have to release the tension first too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jockaneese Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 Hi fella, a tearing off a rear idler, haven't done that in a while... sennelager, 2007, half way through an exercise... Don't waste your time with a pin puller, it's the biggest waste of time i can think of. use an old pin as a driver, just remember to pop an old nut on the end so you don't loose it! breaking the track should be done between the first road wheel and final drive there it has a nice angle, and as long as the drive is locked you dont have to chase the track. Track clamps are a must, without them don't even bother. if the rear idler is jammed use a ruddy great hammer to "help" it out. Remember to remove any nipples and watch out for grease (ooh err) filling back up should be done with an oddy gun, instead of those crappy grease guns in the CES (another waste of time!) interestingly you can easily "half track" a 432 missing out the rear idler all together, it's only short term mind, but it beats removing muff couplings! as mentioned before, never work around armour alone... it's a *stard and given half a chance it'll have you! hope this is of help jock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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