simon king Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 (edited) John - thanks for the comments. Tony - I fell lucky - managed to swap them with someone for the old mudguards plus a chunk of cash - so can't help I'm afraid I'm going to do something different with the markings - no Div/AoS signs but instead just the unit code number and three coloured POM bars on the rear LHS as seen on some British vehicles around D-Day. The order to remove existing markings and replace them in this format for security reasons seems to have been widely ignored in British/Commonwealth units but it is on record that these Allied orders went to both British/Commonwealth and American unit commanders Edited April 3, 2015 by simon king Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 Ah nuts! Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon king Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 (edited) Ah nuts! Thanks. What about something like this http://www.banburytrailers.co.uk/trailer-mudguard/plain-steel Original is 170mm wide so wider but surely worth a punt to adapt if you can't find decent originals Edited April 3, 2015 by simon king Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon king Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 (edited) Primed the mudguards yesterday and fitted them today - so that's all the hard work done. Looks a bit like a Bomb Disposal trailer at the moment though. Made up an L-shaped plate for the axle flood/tail light changeover switch and Butler WD type tailight. The axle floodlight has been fitted with a little L-bracket to the central of the three brackets (for who knows what???) which are welded to the frame. Seemed to be a pragmatic solution - although as I had to replace it, I think it had been cut off originally to allow the fitment of the floodlight and switch on a flat plate. The axle plate is an original item. Although the T-plate was originally hung on two bars welded to the RHS rear stanchion, I decided to instead screw it to the RHS of the tailgate - it fits nicely. There is a precedent for this - see the example parked up at Pegasus Bridge Edited April 7, 2015 by simon king Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Lawrence Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 Simon, A superb job so far but just to be a bit picky - shouldn't the rear tailgate hinge pins be facing in opposite directions, i.e the left hand one (as viewed from the rear) should be pointing in so that the tailgate cannot come off when it is lowered. Certainly that is the case on my mortar trailer and also most trailers I have seen. Both my hinge pins face inwards. Of course if there were holes on the chassis to fit it this way then there is no argument. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon king Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 Simon, A superb job so far but just to be a bit picky - shouldn't the rear tailgate hinge pins be facing in opposite directions, i.e the left hand one (as viewed from the rear) should be pointing in so that the tailgate cannot come off when it is lowered. Certainly that is the case on my mortar trailer and also most trailers I have seen. Both my hinge pins face inwards. Of course if there were holes on the chassis to fit it this way then there is no argument. Thanks Tony - always good to have comments from the 10cwt trailer community. No the hinge pins are as original - The pins were/are drilled for a split pin and a retaining washer so the tailgate can be removed as required - so presumably if the load is longer than the trailer bed then you can transport said item without the tailgate swinging around and banging itself to bits Finished your nice new compressor yet :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cordenj Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 Thanks Tony - always good to have comments from the 10cwt trailer community. No the hinge pins are as original - The pins were/are drilled for a split pin and a retaining washer so the tailgate can be removed as required - so presumably if the load is longer than the trailer bed then you can transport said item without the tailgate swinging around and banging itself to bits Finished your nice new compressor yet :-) Simon, I'd have thought the pins WOULD face in same direction, so that (as you say) it can be removed. Every agricultural trailer I have ever used has similar pins set up that way, and the tailgate could be pinned or more often was held in place by the trailer sides when shut. Perhaps, knowing Mr Lawrences love of all things related to safety, he has adapted his mortar trailer so that the tailgate cannot accidentally fall on his foot? :cool2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon king Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 Simon,I'd have thought the pins WOULD face in same direction, so that (as you say) it can be removed. Every agricultural trailer I have ever used has similar pins set up that way, and the tailgate could be pinned or more often was held in place by the trailer sides when shut. Perhaps, knowing Mr Lawrences love of all things related to safety, he has adapted his mortar trailer so that the tailgate cannot accidentally fall on his foot? :cool2: Must admit I was doubtful at first but it was just possible to determine the faint outline of a hole through the hinge pins filled with the cross section of a split pin when I de-rusted and cleaned up them up. With that evidence it was just a case of drilling them out as the remnants of the split pins were rusted solidly into the hinge pins. More likely that the mortar trailer was designed to carry nothing larger than mortar parts or boxed mortar bombs so no need for a removeable tail or head board - he said charitably :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cordenj Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 Must admit I was doubtful at first but it was just possible to determine the faint outline of a hole through the hinge pins filled with the cross section of a split pin when I de-rusted and cleaned up them up. With that evidence it was just a case of drilling them out as the remnants of the split pins were rusted solidly into the hinge pins. More likely that the mortar trailer was designed to carry nothing larger than mortar parts or boxed mortar bombs so no need for a removeable tail or head board - he said charitably :-) Perfect weather today for dismantling a Compressor trailer - he said doubtfully Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Lawrence Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 That's another beer you owe me this evening!! If you look at the previous photos of my mortar trailer and others you will see that the pins are as I described so obviously there were many variations. The compressor trailer is completely dismantled (in my dreams) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agincourt no1 Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 In defence of the wise and venerable Mr. Lawrence, my mortar trailer's tail/head gate is fixed in place by opposing fittings and were refitted on the original holes; along with confirmation of fitment from the photo in the postwar parts manual. With respect and regards to all, Neil Any comfirmation details can be found in: WO Code No 12995 Illustrated spare parts list, for Trailer,1/2ton,G.S Cargo 2 Wheeled, No 1 and 2 Trailer,1/2ton, 4.2in Mortar No1, 2 Wheeled Trailer,1/2ton, 4.2in Mortar Ammunition No1, 2 Wheeled Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon king Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 (edited) The warm weather this week has enabled me to progress the painting a bit. Got the first coat on the outside - just the inside of the bed to paint. OK I know I should have started on the inside - but I was only going to do the odd difficult bit on the outside and then got carried away.................. Not entirely happy with the finish (semi-matt BS381c 499 Service Brown) as it's not a constant matt finish - so might rub it down and recoat - or even flash over some thinned Ronseal satin varnish - something I've used before - if it browns with age it's not going to matter. Any ideas how to avoid the "pooling" which seems to lead to patches of shinier paint? - or any recommendations for idiot-proof non-temperamental paint. Hey ho - One step forward and two steps back Edited April 23, 2015 by simon king Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Lawrence Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 The warm weather this week has enabled me to progress the painting a bit. Got the first coat on the outside - just the inside of the bed to paint. OK I know I should have started on the inside - but I was only going to do the odd difficult bit on the outside and then got carried away.................. [ATTACH=CONFIG]103698[/ATTACH] Not entirely happy with the finish (semi-matt BS381c 499 Service Brown) as it's not a constant matt finish - so might rub it down and recoat - or even flash over some thinned Ronseal satin varnish - something I've used before - if it browns with age it's not going to matter. Any ideas how to avoid the "pooling" which seems to lead to patches of shinier paint? - or any recommendations for idiot-proof non-temperamental paint. Hey ho - One step forward and two steps back As in model making, several fine mist coats with a time gap in between should prevent pooling of paint. However it is so easy to get impatient and carried away as I know from experience. Your idea of varnish as a final coat should work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon king Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 (edited) Sprayed the markings over the weekend - in addition to these seen, there's just tyre pressures on the mudguards and the unit serial on the o/s/f frame. Might add the speed limit if I can tease the stencil round various bolts and fit between two rope hooks. Last step today was to finally attach the new dataplate - from Robert at Dataplates4U. Luckily the plate for a GS trailer built by SS Cars was a stock item Edited May 18, 2015 by simon king Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_bish Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 Thats a fine looking trailer, I think the finish looks just right from what I an see Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cordenj Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 Excellent work Simon. And another trailer is saved! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon king Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 thanks -for the comments - and to everyone who's offered advice and support during the project... which started like this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Lawrence Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 Well done - a fine result. When will we see it on the road? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon king Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 Well done - a fine result. When will we see it on the road? Got to fathom out how to fit and connect a street legal lighting board at the back first Tony - something that can be removed easily and won't do too much damage. Construction and Use regs only require marker lights on a pre-1955 trailer IIRC but today's road conditions suggest a full set is sensible, The jeep is June 42 - pre trailer socket - so will have to fathom something out jeep wiring-wise as well. Perhaps a modern socket hidden within one of the jeep's tool-boxes might be the answer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex van de Wetering Posted May 19, 2015 Share Posted May 19, 2015 Very, very nice work Simon. Those markings really finish it off. Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfy Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 I remember seeing that trailer for sale on milweb, well done the finished result looks great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfy Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 I picked up this old warhorse from Surrey last week, another one saved. Used frequently on a farm and kept under cover. Hasn't been on the road for over 35 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Sharpe Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 If you are interested in selling this how much would you be looking for it. What town are you located, giving me post code as well. Thank you for sending me the photographs. very much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfy Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 pm sent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon king Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 Another 10cwt mortar trailer for sale on Milweb - is that the going price now????? http://www.milweb.net/classifieds/large_image.php?ad=78271&cat=7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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