Sharing the knowledge on restoration, servicing and rebuilds

[Rover8FFR]

I have had a few issues with my 1976 Lightweight Winterised Land Rover 24vFFR but wondered what pains, small or meaningfull that you have all experienced during a restoration, rebuild or general maintenance so that we can share the knowledge under one topic.

 

For example splitting the engine and gearbox on my 76 Landrover LTWT has been a pain.

 

A problem shared is a problem halved?

 

The pictures prove I could not split!

[ruxy]

It does seem as if the clutch plate splines & primary shaft splines have somehow become welded , any chance yet of getting a OE spanner on to the clutch cover set-bolts through the gap ?

 

Obviously you have removed all the fixings, recently I came to the conclusion I had the same problem on a Fiat Punto - after about 3 wasted hours I found I had not removed 3 small set bolts securing the lower tinware (despite having done several UNO & Punto engine changes). It was a case of setting off in the wrong frame of mind, things went wrong and just continued to go wrong all the way. I ended up with the alternator & throttle body suspended on bits of washing line from the wiper arm spindles. Nobody was more surprised than me when it fired up well first go and had continued to do so..

 

I always put a smear of Moly-Paul PBC on the splines.

[Rover8FFR]

It does seem as if the clutch plate splines & primary shaft splines have somehow become welded , any chance yet of getting a OE spanner on to the clutch cover set-bolts through the gap ?

 

Obviously you have removed all the fixings, recently I came to the conclusion I had the same problem on a Fiat Punto - after about 3 wasted hours I found I had not removed 3 small set bolts securing the lower tinware (despite having done several UNO & Punto engine changes). It was a case of setting off in the wrong frame of mind, things went wrong and just continued to go wrong all the way. I ended up with the alternator & throttle body suspended on bits of washing line from the wiper arm spindles. Nobody was more surprised than me when it fired up well first go and had continued to do so..

 

I always put a smear of Moly-Paul PBC on the splines.

 

Yes that very strong natural weld called RUST! Even with the engine in this state and things supported, propped etc etc etc The prising of the bellhousing from the engine did nothing. Some give but no seperation.

 

Decided after hours of frustration to just take the whole lot out in one as the hoist was man enough.

 

Re-assembly will be very different to prevent seizure!

[ruxy]

You should be able to get at the clutch cover bolts through the aperture in the bell-housing but it sounds like the friction plate will also be welded with rust to the flywheel and pressure-plate. You could try blasting with penetrating fluid & crane suspending with engine down & just off the ground, if worst comes to the worst - I think you may have to sacrifice the alloy bellhousing..

[Rover8FFR]

You should be able to get at the clutch cover bolts through the aperture in the bell-housing but it sounds like the friction plate will also be welded with rust to the flywheel and pressure-plate. You could try blasting with penetrating fluid & crane suspending with engine down & just off the ground, if worst comes to the worst - I think you may have to sacrifice the alloy bellhousing..

 

FT I have already come to the conclussion that the alloy bellhousing may be sacraficed to allow seperation of the main parts. The suspension of the parts near the floor over a 'drop cushion' is also a possible option???? However it would be my luck that the 2 would part company and the engine be damaged, even from a couple of inches. Series 3 gearboxes are plentiful and worst case I have a few S2a boxes to chose from.

 

I blasted the internals through the aperture again last night with penetrating oil, so I may be lucky when I get to her again.

 

Upwards and onwards!

[Poptopshed]

I have had the same happen on a Series 3 engine and box, parted in the end by using a hi-lift jack wedged against the back of the block and the nose of the jack against the gearbox. Keeping pressure on the jack and belting the handbrake drum ( didnt want to damage the gearbox case) it let go in the end.

[mike65]

Wayne

 

Sounds like you need a tug of war contest.

Unsiezed a VW Beetle engine one with a little help from a Massey Fergusen.

Was also very usefull for straightening a bend RHS, place RHS on ground. Place bottle jack on RHS, place very big Massey on jack and lift.

 

Mike

[touchwood 2a]

Wayne

 

Maybe it's a stupid idea, but I could not be separated intake manifold from exhaust manifold on my Toastie engine. They helped me wedges of hard wood into which I was beating a big hammer.

I know this is a different case and the risk damage of a bell-housing, but ...

 

Jarda

[Rover8FFR]

Thanks to all. Progress was as follows;

 

Undo Clutch through inspection aperture and blast with penetrating oil, leave, knock, tap, jiggle........NOTHING!

 

Destroy bellhousing, thrust bearing and clutch plate to expose splines against flywheel. Blast with penetrating oil, leave, knock, tap, jiggle..........NOTHING!

 

Leave a bit longer. Warm splines up with blow torch (gearbox believed to be unserviceable TBC so nothing to lose at this point)..........Blast with pentrating oil to get some expansion and contraction / shocking going on........

 

I then turned the engine by hand and guess what???? Newtons law kicked in!

 

I know it was 11pm at night when the seperation came, but I am sure the next county heard the 'Got you, you Beer Steward' Cry!

 

Can crack on now and hack up old chassis as I progress to make more room.

 

The new chassis on tressles build up is getting closer after this hick-up! :yay::yay::dancinggirls:

Edited May 11, 2011 by Rover8FFR
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