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checking oil on a fv432


benbenukuk
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Changed oil and filters (gearbox and engine) on the Sabre at the weekend as well as the air cleaner oil. Didn't get time to do the fuel filter sadly but that will be one for next time. My mate (ex REME Chally 1 and 2 man) was amazed at my diligence compared to what happens in the field.

 

Bit different when you're oaying for it yourself though !

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Changed oil and filters (gearbox and engine) on the Sabre at the weekend as well as the air cleaner oil. Didn't get time to do the fuel filter sadly but that will be one for next time. My mate (ex REME Chally 1 and 2 man) was amazed at my diligence compared to what happens in the field.

 

Bit different when you're oaying for it yourself though !

 

 

Sorry meant to say PAYING of course....

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morning ben ,

what we do is have a visual on stick before starting just to make sure you have oil then start up run for 5 to 10 mins in gear at about 1000 revs (it says on the stick) then check level should be in safe zone

 

Hello, Tried this and when I ckecked there was no oil on the stick - I guess I need some then lol. Ben

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  • 10 years later...

I know this is opening a long-lost thread, I also know it is not about radio (yet) but I am a new owner of an old fv439 (RR).

Done the batteries, checked the electrics and things as best I can.

Planning cranking over shortly, but I have found that the gearbox oil level is a few inches from the top of the stick - as is well above the high-danger oil mark.  Yes I am on a level park.  The beast has not been run for a while.  But it has been towed on and off a transporter.

Does anybody have any clues/thoughts/plans for what I should best do before cranking the beast - yes, governer(sp) fluid checked, water checked.

Any suggestions welcome.

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your coolant could be leaking via the intercooler into the gearbox

take rad cap off and see if the coolant level is about 50mm below the filler neck

if it has dropped a lot, you will need to verify there is water in the gearbox.

as water is heavier than oil, undo the gearbox drain plug (its on the bottom of the filler tube, accessible from underneath) and see what comes out.

if its all clean oil-good

if its latte coloured or water, you have a problem.

either way you must drop the level down to the safe zone before cranking or serious mechanical damage will be inflicted on the 'box! 

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Just pulling the gearbox dipstick should tell you all you need to know. If it's clear oil it's probably been topped up by someone who didn't know what they were doing. If it looks like chicken soup you've got a leaking heat exchanger, which is extremely common, unfortunately.

Andy

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terryb+andym:  Thanks for the suggestions.

water level in the radiator seems fine.   It was well up and did not appear to have any floaters.

The oil was oil (at least to the depth of the dip stick!) - not the creamy mush I have in my old fergie tractors! 

But yes, there could be water below the level of the dip stick I guess.  

I can drain some - as terryb suggest - but "some" always gives me troubles.  I never can get the plug back in the hole before gallons run down my arm!  Or worse, I drop the plug!

I will go check the manuals and see where the drain is - underneath with a blanking plug no doubt!

If I disengage the gearbox at the "transfer box" - with the level near the commanders seat - can I at least see if I can crank the engine.  Or will that do damage too??

One of the things I remember reading was dont run the engine for too long with the "something" disengaged or the oil level in the gearbox will climb.  Damned if I can find that phrase again ;-(

 

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NOT radio related ;-(

Can anyone (terryb or andym??) identify the stainless part in these photos.

I have the engine oil level filler cap - but a "bit of gap" down to the pipe below.

I dont know where the stainless part should fit and if it is part of the engine oil filler chain.  I have scanned the 1100 page parts-list for the ptarmigan but can see this part.  It foes not appear to have a NATO part number stamped on it.

I have tried asking the fv342 website, but - despite having great notes and links - it does not appear to be very active - just like my ptarmigan ;-(

IMG_20211205_162714.jpg

IMG_20211206_100543.jpg

IMG_20211206_100645.jpg

IMG_20211206_100707.jpg

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I don't recognise the stainless part but recall that the FV439 has different piano boards to the others so it may well be part of the filler chain, certainly looks that way.

Going back to the gearbox oil level, how high is it above the Safe zone? It's normal for it to be an inch above before starting the engine as the oil won't have pumped through the gearbox internals.

Andy

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2 hours ago, andym said:

 

Going back to the gearbox oil level, how high is it above the Safe zone? It's normal for it to be an inch above before starting the engine as the oil won't have pumped through the gearbox internals.

The oil is about 6-8 inches above the high danger mark!  

I cant crank the engine over if that reading is to be believed.

I am keen to assess what is good and what is bad in the power pack,  Any thoughts if can I disconnect the drive train with that lever near the commanders seat and see if the engine runs?  Or is that just a bad idea!

My fault if it all goes wrong, but I welcome clues ;-)

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1 hour ago, iainmaoileoin said:

Good idea - one on order.
If I can get deep enough into the oil tank it also means that I can see if it is full of water.

Are you the andy from the fv432apc.com that used FoI to get the manuals?

Guilty as charged!  🙂

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3 hours ago, iainmaoileoin said:

Andym you waz right - after churning the beast over, yes  I have chicken soup - just like my little fergie has ;-(

Water in rad is not down, but probably 5L of chicken soup taken out of the GB to get the level between the danger markers.

This will be fun!

Just pray that it is not your heat exchanger that is leaking!......They are hard to source & usually very expensive when you do!.......If they leak internally, They can leak water into the Lube system! that is another avenue of exploration to contend with!.....

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It would sound like the HE is the most likely.  I guess I need to leave the rad cap off- to break the vaccum(sp) and see if the water level drops and other things rise I guess?

I did not pay a lot for the beast, so I would expect to have to spend a bit more to get it to a running state.  It will never do much more than trundle about the yard in my WW2/Cold War Bunker.  I could always take the power plant out and replace it with an electric motor driven my the batteries.  Perhaps a call to Tesla! (I jest).

I have not - yet - studied the plans for the engine to see what goes in and out of the HExchanger.  Clearly the gearbox oil, you think the lube system too?  I better have a poke at those levels and what sort of material is in that tank.

Thanks for the input.  I am not a mechanical engineer but I do look after my tractors and heavy things.

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i bought two this year a 436 and a 434 and both have failed gearbox heat exchangers. i'm going to bypass the heat exchanger and just return the oil to the box and see how the temps are. by the way the heat exchanger cools the gearbox, steering box, hydraulic fan drives and engine oil

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