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Land Rover questions.


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Ok, after talking to mate in the NLBA on saturday, seriously thinking of getting a Land Rover. Thinking long wheelbase, gonna have in the next couple of months about a grand to spend, guessing I'm really looking at a tatty runner for that kind of cash? Any major pitfalls to look out for? Reserved a book from the library about army land rovers, hopefully get that next week but any advice? Don't want a civvie one made up to be ex army, want a proper one!!:D

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Hi, can you weld/fabricate? Take great care to check out the chassis,outriggers and bulkhead, it can be easyier to do a clutch, engine rebuild etc. than having to try and weld up a rotton bulkhead/chassis. A friend has just had to have work done on a SIII engine and was staggered how cheep engine parts were, and how helpfull and low cost local small engineering firms were.

Good hunting and let us all know how you get on.

P.S. thought of a airportable??:-)

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Look in yout local freeads/Gumtree etc. A tax exempt LWB FFR (90 amp), went a couple of weeks ago close to me for £650. Just needed a head gasket, a couple of tyres, and a new tilt. The buyer had it fixed and MOT'ed in a couple of weeks.

Rust in the bulkhead is a pain, but chassis welding is not too bad. All bits are cheap, and lots of bits about. Most places have a LR breaker close to hand, and new stuff is very easy to get on the web.

Try and get something with a series two gearbox, as these are stronger than series three. About 6 spanners, and couple of screwdrivers, and pop rivet gun and you can do about 90% of repairs.

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About 6 spanners, and couple of screwdrivers, and pop rivet gun and you can do about 90% of repairs.

 

You forgot to mention a good selection of hammers.

 

Agree chassis and bulkhead are the main worries with respect to corrosion.

Chassis is realativly easy to check all you need is to tap it with something metal and if it is good you should get a nice metallic sound. Rusty areas or bodges just tend to give a dull thud.

Give it a good going over especially around the cross members and suspension mounts.

 

Fuel tanks are worth checking as these are a bit harder to source and/or expensive. If they do not contain or smell strongly of petrol it probably has not been used. Normally because it has a hole. (I know I have one)

 

Most of the rest of it is how do you say basic.

 

Brakes are not as bad as some people make out. mine stops quite nicely, now that I have fixed them. Parts are cheap even a new master cylinder came in at arond £70.

 

If it still has the military headlights and bowls have a screwdriver in your pocket and check the adjusters turn. Military style bowls are not exactly cheap.

 

If it has a spare on the bonnet lift it up and check the hidden sidewall. The crack in mine turned out to be deeper than the tread pattern.

 

If ione is not leaking oil I would be surprised.

 

On an FFR pay attention to the batteries, after all you will have atleast 2.

 

Good luck and good hunting.

 

You can also fin 110/90s at bargain prices if your willing to travel and are not inmpatient.

 

Mike

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An arse of a job is the front swivels/ Raiko bushes.

 

Check for wear as these are non adjustable, and must be replaced if play is present. Check Chrome plating on Swivel / Axle ball ends, not a straightforward job if the chrome is gone, and oilseals will be ripped up very quickly on pitted Chrome.

 

If Military leather gators are fitted concider untying the lacing to check the chrome. Despite the gaotr protection they could be Ex Ball ends.

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Motor bikes in the back just measured mine for you.

You have approx 1.85m length and 0,9m clearance between side tubs (1.45m between side panels over) in a Series 3 109 when there is nothing in there. What size are the bikes?

Remeber military spec are also a bit higher although tail gates are easy removal.

 

If you get a FFR you may have less room if the radio battery box and table are still fitted.

Mind you they can be removed and I know somebody who would be interested in them (mine are missing)

 

Mike

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The bikes are just small ones, and I'm in Hatfield, Hertfordshire. No rush though, waiting for my grandmothers house sale to finish first, then I'll have some cash!!:D

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Motorbikes in the back are no problem. Got my Guzzi in the back with the tailgate closed (just had to take off the numberplate holder) and the 650 Dakar went in with the tailgate down.

You'll also need some plasters for the dreaded Land Rover Elbow :-)

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Motorbikes in the back are no problem. Got my Guzzi in the back with the tailgate closed (just had to take off the numberplate holder) and the 650 Dakar went in with the tailgate down.

You'll also need some plasters for the dreaded Land Rover Elbow :-)

 

And a good hat for the Land Rover Drip! :-D

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knowing tony b his mate probably has another ex military landrover stored at the back of his place

i got one from him a couple of years ago and it needed only minor work to get it on the road and hes not that far from you

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knowing tony b his mate probably has another ex military landrover stored at the back of his place

i got one from him a couple of years ago and it needed only minor work to get it on the road and hes not that far from you

 

Actualy Dave, No, the last one of the bunch is being done up for a customer as we speack.

Darren was in at the tail end of the Withams's mass disposal of the petrol Series 3's. At the end it was a bulk offer . About £200 each but you had to take a batch of five. I'll PM Rob the number though, you never know. At leat there is still a pile of spares.

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Ok, I take it the land rover drip is for a leaky roof and the elbow for banging my arm on the door as I drive?!!!:D

 

I have no problems with a leaky roof but you do need a hat when underneath.

 

Leaks found to date

Rear axle

Transfer box rear output (OK when parke facing downhill)

Front brake slave

Brake master cylinder

Engine sump (not really a leak just a means of marking its territory)

Fuel line into carb.

Fuel tank (left side) or so I am told, might check one day.

Doors (missing rubber seals)

 

If it does not leak it is not a Land Rover they were "designed" that way.

 

Mike

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If anyone wants a solid Winterised 109 on a 1981 plate, Good unabused and needing care, no Mot or Tax. my friend has one on his drive, serious offers..

 

Not moved in a few years, I know he would benifit from the cash.. let me know, ill get some pics if anyone interested.

 

Good chassis from memory, needs a paint and a good tidy, 2.25 petrol, needs attention getting it running smooth, condenser I would say, poss set of leads.. its the 24v model

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I have no problems with a leaky roof but you do need a hat when underneath.

 

Leaks found to date

Rear axle

Transfer box rear output (OK when parke facing downhill)

Front brake slave

Brake master cylinder

Engine sump (not really a leak just a means of marking its territory)

Fuel line into carb.

Fuel tank (left side) or so I am told, might check one day.

Doors (missing rubber seals)

 

If it does not leak it is not a Land Rover they were "designed" that way.

 

Mike

Military fuel tanks are &*((% expensive unfortunatley. About £150 each! As for level checks, if it 'aint dripping , top it up.:-D

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