Landover 109 FFR paint colour

[searley]

OK

 

im new to this, i recently acquired a Landrover 109 FFR that was in a really sad way, i now have it running and MOT'd

 

so the next step is cosmetics, as many of these vehicles it has about 90 layers of different coloured paint applied

 

whats the best way to remove this?? paint stripper??

 

The second question is what paints and what colour do i use again, plenty of places selling what is classed as 'nato green' but this looks a little light to me??

 

Here is a photo as it currently stands!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

and another a few weeks back

 

 

any advise in relation to this vehicle will be greatly received

 

richard

[David Ives]

standerd nato green and blackboard black paint works best

[13BK76]

paint stripper is a long winded way of doing it.

if you dont want a pristine finish get one of those drill attachments that look like a brillo pad and spend some time removing the lose stuff. Then flatten the ridges with it.

I use Marcus glenn's satin finish nato green as it goes on really well and the satin finish lasts a bit longer than the matt finish. he also does handy spray cans for when you need to touch up bits but cant be arsed to clean the brush after.

[LoggyDriver]

After doing mine here is my thoughts.

 

I used an air driven orbital sander and spent 3 days sanding it down, but there wasn't as many layers of paint on mine as yours. Don't use paint stripper as you will need to use an etch primer to cover the aluminuim (although I did sand mine down to the metal where there was oxidization). Sand it down so you have a smooth surface all over. Then spray it all over with red oxide primer. Then two coats of NATO green (I used genuine NATO green/black Beckers polyeurothane enamel) paint. I'm not sure if you can get this type of paint anynore (poxy EU regulations again). It doesn't thin out with thinners but with Kerosene.

 

Then if you want some black cammo on it, just blow that over in the pattern you want. Mask up the side lights/headlights/windscreen/tyres etc,etc and the black rubber of the aeriel mounts. Leave the door mirrors black (yours is fitted with Defender mirrors, get some series 3 mirrors if you want it genuine)

 

You can paint the bumper and rear cross member black if painting it all green or you can paint them green or green/black it doesn't matter with these. Paint the wheel rims green only. The union flag stickers need to be on the right as you are looking at the vehicle, so on the front place one sticker above the N/S headlight then on the offside you can place a roundal (if RAF) or the army Sqn/Corps unit ident sticker, again, above the headlight. Same goes for the back, union flag on the right as your looking at it.

 

The petrol cap should be painted red, as should the towing shackles on the front bumper. Don't paint the wheel studs white, this practice stopped years ago. The rear diff casing should be painted white, then paint the drain/fill plugs on diffs/gearbox/transfer box/swivel housing etc Yellow. TP stencils can be green/black/white.

 

 

Of course you can do it any way you wish, this is just the colours and items we painted at my Squadron.

 

I'm going to re do mine next year, but am going to make a better job of it than I did before (was a bit of a rush job). Good luck with it, hope this helps.

Edited December 12, 2009 by LoggyDriver

[LoggyDriver]

paint stripper is a long winded way of doing it.

if you dont want a pristine finish get one of those drill attachments that look like a brillo pad and spend some time removing the lose stuff. Then flatten the ridges with it.

I use Marcus glenn's satin finish nato green as it goes on really well and the satin finish lasts a bit longer than the matt finish. he also does handy spray cans for when you need to touch up bits but cant be arsed to clean the brush after.

 

 

 

Is Marcus Glenns paint Polyeurothanne enamel or water based?

[searley]

Thank you for the replies..

 

i will get some of the MG satin paint... then decide how much effort i want to put into the cleanup..

 

its not intended as a show vehicle, its a toy and something to go shooting in, so while i would like it to be authentic'ish'...

 

so i may do what 13BK76 says for the time being, then when i have the time, and can get it under cover take it further

 

thanks

[David Ives]

whip over to dropzone at pulbourgh they had some tins of paint there last time i was there also any bits you need are normally in stock

[rambo1969]

Electric/air sander to remove paint, and the satin finish NATO green/black, makes keeping it clean alot easier!:-D

 

Will post some piccies of ones ive done later.

[rambo1969]

I get my paint from my local car paint supplier, I use synthetic satin finish, for the outside you will need about 2 litres;

 

 

All above done with a short pile gloss roller.

[LoggyDriver]

Very nice job there Rambo.

 

When I saw Gordon Beals Goddess in Sand I thought he had sprayed it as the paint job was excellent, but he told me he did it with a roller, I was very impressed.

 

The stuff you use, is it the same as the old army Polyeurothane Enamel? I've still got some genuine Beckers Polyeurothane Enamel Matt IRR green and black left. I'm going to re spray mine next year and I was thinking of doing it plain green this time with black bumpers/grill/wheel arches, just like yours. Either that or in Desert colour, as my Defender was in the first Gulf War in Saudi.

[Stone]

Is Marcus Glenns paint Polyeurothanne enamel or water based?

I asked this of him last week so hopefully I'll have an answer soon! I'm hoping it's polyurethane as I have a radome that needs painting and metal-based pigments are a no-no 'cos all the radio waves will be blocked out

 

Stone

[sirhc]

If it is 2 pack polyurethane paint make sure you are wearing air fed respirators and doing it in a properly ventilated and extracted spray booth. It's very nasty stuff and most places won't sell it to non trade users. The mod surplus stuff is not very good, it's porus and absorbs water. It fades very quickly and looks rubbish after a couple of years. Be careful sanding it down and make sure you wear a respirator as the dust is nasty stuff. It's much easier, cheaper and safer to avoid all these 2 pack paints.

[LoggyDriver]

If it is 2 pack polyurethane paint make sure you are wearing air fed respirators and doing it in a properly ventilated and extracted spray booth. It's very nasty stuff and most places won't sell it to non trade users. The mod surplus stuff is not very good, it's porus and absorbs water. It fades very quickly and looks rubbish after a couple of years. Be careful sanding it down and make sure you wear a respirator as the dust is nasty stuff. It's much easier, cheaper and safer to avoid all these 2 pack paints.

 

 

 

The Beckers paint I have isn't two pack, and that's Polyeurothane Enamel. It's thinned down with Kero. We used to patch paint with it all the time in the Army, but when they brought in the two pack stuff, we were no longer allowed to paint, vehicles had to go off to ABRO. I'd be interested knowing what this Marcus Glenn paint is like. Does his Satin finish look like the Army two pack once it's dried?

[searley]

Hi Loggy

 

you mention: army Sqn/Corps unit ident sticker.. what should i use on mine and where could i get one??

 

 

thanks

 

After doing mine here is my thoughts.

 

I used an air driven orbital sander and spent 3 days sanding it down, but there wasn't as many layers of paint on mine as yours. Don't use paint stripper as you will need to use an etch primer to cover the aluminuim (although I did sand mine down to the metal where there was oxidization). Sand it down so you have a smooth surface all over. Then spray it all over with red oxide primer. Then two coats of NATO green (I used genuine NATO green/black Beckers polyeurothane enamel) paint. I'm not sure if you can get this type of paint anynore (poxy EU regulations again). It doesn't thin out with thinners but with Kerosene.

 

Then if you want some black cammo on it, just blow that over in the pattern you want. Mask up the side lights/headlights/windscreen/tyres etc,etc and the black rubber of the aeriel mounts. Leave the door mirrors black (yours is fitted with Defender mirrors, get some series 3 mirrors if you want it genuine)

 

You can paint the bumper and rear cross member black if painting it all green or you can paint them green or green/black it doesn't matter with these. Paint the wheel rims green only. The union flag stickers need to be on the right as you are looking at the vehicle, so on the front place one sticker above the N/S headlight then on the offside you can place a roundal (if RAF) or the army Sqn/Corps unit ident sticker, again, above the headlight. Same goes for the back, union flag on the right as your looking at it.

 

The petrol cap should be painted red, as should the towing shackles on the front bumper. Don't paint the wheel studs white, this practice stopped years ago. The rear diff casing should be painted white, then paint the drain/fill plugs on diffs/gearbox/transfer box/swivel housing etc Yellow. TP stencils can be green/black/white.

 

 

Of course you can do it any way you wish, this is just the colours and items we painted at my Squadron.

 

I'm going to re do mine next year, but am going to make a better job of it than I did before (was a bit of a rush job). Good luck with it, hope this helps.

[mcspool]

What about the Berlin Brigade camouflage scheme?

[Stone]

I'd be interested knowing what this Marcus Glenn paint is like. Does his Satin finish look like the Army two pack once it's dried?

I've done some touchups on the Bedford and radio body; compared to IRR green it's surprisingly close. Where I've stuck it on a bit thick you can see where the edges are but only when the light catches it, if that makes sense. If you feather it on properly (and the can's full enough...mine's running out of propellant even though there's paint left) it comes out really nicely, if you did a whole vehicle in it it'd be really hard to spot the difference side-by-side.

 

The satin finish is slightly shinier than the IRR matt but hopefully it'll last a bit longer!

 

Stone

[LoggyDriver]

Hi Loggy

 

you mention: army Sqn/Corps unit ident sticker.. what should i use on mine and where could i get one??

 

 

thanks

 

 

 

 

Hello Searley,

 

First you need to know what units your Land Rover has been with to be authentic. Do some research on the Army website once you know who your Land Rover has been with. Most army units will have a Squadron/Company insignia sticker on the top left hand side of the windscreen or in the position I mentioned earlier. Just look on the army website or Google the unit in question and you should be able to find what there insignia is. They are usually just stickers, so if you get the right size you should be able to get some printed up.

 

For instance when I was at 10 Transport Regiment my Squadron was 1 Squadron and our Squadron insignia was a square divided into 4. So 4 smaller squares make up the square. The squares are black and white in diag sequence. 10 Regtiments insignia was the Roman numeral 10 = X.

 

The RLC Tactical Recognition Flash is Blue and Yellow in diagonal. This could be painted onto a plate and mounted onto the front bumper, but we never used the TRF of the RLC.

 

Here is pictures of the TRF's.

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tactical_recognition_flash

[LoggyDriver]

I've done some touchups on the Bedford and radio body; compared to IRR green it's surprisingly close. Where I've stuck it on a bit thick you can see where the edges are but only when the light catches it, if that makes sense. If you feather it on properly (and the can's full enough...mine's running out of propellant even though there's paint left) it comes out really nicely, if you did a whole vehicle in it it'd be really hard to spot the difference side-by-side.

 

The satin finish is slightly shinier than the IRR matt but hopefully it'll last a bit longer!

 

Stone

 

 

 

So is the paint Polyeurothane Enamel like the Beckers IRR (old stuff) or is it different? Have you got any pictures of what it looks like? I will get a gallon for my spray gun if it's OK.

[ArtistsRifles]

Hello Searley,

 

First you need to know what units your Land Rover has been with to be authentic. Do some research on the Army website once you know who your Land Rover has been with. Most army units will have a Squadron/Company insignia sticker on the top left hand side of the windscreen or in the position I mentioned earlier. Just look on the army website or Google the unit in question and you should be able to find what there insignia is. They are usually just stickers, so if you get the right size you should be able to get some printed up.

 

For instance when I was at 10 Transport Regiment my Squadron was 1 Squadron and our Squadron insignia was a square divided into 4. So 4 smaller squares make up the square. The squares are black and white in diag sequence. 10 Regtiments insignia was the Roman numeral 10 = X.

 

The RLC Tactical Recognition Flash is Blue and Yellow in diagonal. This could be painted onto a plate and mounted onto the front bumper, but we never used the TRF of the RLC.

 

Here is pictures of the TRF's.

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tactical_recognition_flash

 

They kept the old RASC/RCT flash then? That's nice to know. The ones we had on the vehicles in 215 Sqdn RCT(VR) also had a white bar across the top.

[LoggyDriver]

They kept the old RASC/RCT flash then? That's nice to know. The ones we had on the vehicles in 215 Sqdn RCT(VR) also had a white bar across the top.

 

 

 

I wonder what the white bar was for, TA perhaps? We never used the TRF of the RLC. Our shoulder flash was that of HQ 4 Div CSSG. It is called "sammy the sperm" but is infact a snake. Here it is thanks to ebay.

 

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Combat-Service-Support-Group-Cloth-Badge_W0QQitemZ250535237381QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxq20091124?IMSfp=TL091124186004r14008

[ArtistsRifles]

I wonder what the white bar was for, TA perhaps? We never used the TRF of the RLC. Our shoulder flash was that of HQ 4 Div CSSG. It is called "sammy the sperm" but is infact a snake. Here it is thanks to ebay.

 

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Combat-Service-Support-Group-Cloth-Badge_W0QQitemZ250535237381QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxq20091124?IMSfp=TL091124186004r14008

 

I go back to the days when we never even wore the Union flash The only markings were applied to the vehicles and, as I say the Corps marking was the Blue/Yellow square surmounted by a White bar, the Division marking (for London) was a Black square with an orangey yellow tower on it. This would be circa 1973/74.

21's vehicles, needless to say, carried no markings other than the reg plates.

[searley]

i decided i would give it a temporary coat now with basic cleaning first, then when the weather is better i will re-do it properly

 

i went for the marcus glenn satin paint, and i must say it is a close match, take a look at the photo below, you will see the wing is almost exactly the same as the wing boxes, the paint dries quite quickly and has reasonable coverage

 

Edited December 31, 2009 by searley

[G506]

Hi Richard,

she's looking good!

[searley]

Hi Richard,

she's looking good!

 

 

Thanks, its getting there.. but there always seems to be something new todo.. have now discovered most of the hoses for the artic heater are perished and need replacing, and the original fitment of it seems a bit of a 'bodge' like one hose that goes the the gearbox tunnel is resting on the hole that was cut for it, the sharp edges gradually cutting through the hose.. and the rest of the hoses are short pieces joined together

 

still keeps me busy i suppose!!

[G506]

Hi Richard,

whats the latest progress?