Enigma Posted September 12, 2009 Share Posted September 12, 2009 So any idea how much 1 of your repro's might cost me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark m uk Posted September 13, 2009 Author Share Posted September 13, 2009 So any idea how much 1 of your repro's might cost me? Good question, very good question, in fact - that is the $64,000 question. As the project develops, more and more problems offer them selves, and more and more solutions are found. It is not until the project is finished that all the problems will have been found, and all the expenses and costs known. That is the whole idea of the build - to see if it is A) possible, B) viable C) affordable I hope to have an answer to your question by Beltring next year. Learned years ago to keep my mouth shut until I can say something that can be backed up. It is pointless in asking if there would be any interest in these, I know that there is enormous interest in a fair working replica - but it is all dependant on the cost - and that will depend on the results of this experiment. Regards Mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berna2vm Posted September 13, 2009 Share Posted September 13, 2009 I love this project. I love the Schwimmwagen,maybe the coolest small vehicle of ww2... What does a clean original fetch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted September 13, 2009 Share Posted September 13, 2009 What does a clean original fetch? I'd have thought that would be a good starting point for taking a running jump at a price. OK a replica isn't genuine, but on the plus side it may well turn out to be more practical / usable. What that translates to in +/- value is anyone's guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcspool Posted September 13, 2009 Share Posted September 13, 2009 I have bought some pre'66 drums with wide 5 studs, and intend to spend next week trying to get them on the 69 axle, but the wheel bearings are all different sizes. This is getting to be a real challenge ! Mark, For your next(?) replica, you might want to use a pre-´66 chassis, as it basically has the same dimensions as the wartime chassis (notably tread), and will give you the 5-stud drums + wheels. Anyway, this one really looks the part! Only thing I wonder is you might have to lengthen the mudguards to run all along the length of the hull, as this might improve stability in the water? Keep up the good work! Hanno Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark m uk Posted September 13, 2009 Author Share Posted September 13, 2009 (edited) Extremely useful Schwim-chat going on here, thanks guys it really is very useful. I can say that good original complete 166 have been SOLD for figures in excess of 140,000 E. I have been offered a nice complete example that is running, not totallyoriginal, and needs complete restoration for £100,000 that is NOT sold. I know of another nicely restored example that is being offered for 140,000 E, Another nicely restored example with some unoriginal parts for 200,000 dollars Another incomplete and very rusty body, with no mechanical parts at 30,000 Dollars A body that is mostly complete, no fittings, no mechanical parts 30,000 E That seems to be the range of prices today, what happens (up or down) in the future is anyones guess. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hanno, that is very good information. I had considered an earlier chassis to get the tread width the same. However, I opted for the later chassis for a number of reasons - It is only a few millimetres different and it is closer to the rear axle dimention after the addition of dropped axle reduction boxes. But mostly, post 67 Beetle chassis are by far the most readily available. Good left hand drive versions are plentiful from rust free countries. I think your suggestion is perfect for 'one off' projects. Thanks for the imput. Regards Mark. Edited September 13, 2009 by mark m uk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark m uk Posted September 18, 2009 Author Share Posted September 18, 2009 As promised an update on the replica build. Last couple of days I have mostly been making air ducting - of course this being air cooled the air has to come from somewhere and Herr Porsche figured the inside of the hull was the only dry option. Trickiest job was getting my new duct to line up with the existing Beetle intake fan housing. The pictures explain............and yes, there is a steel shortage in East Anglia. I did resort to useing my Racking from the garage shelves. I know the mesh is different, I did source some correct stamped sheet - but minimum size is a 1m x 2m sheet. I posted a picture for comparison of a real VW166 - it is the feild grey one (in case you didn't spot the difference :-D) Regards Mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willyslancs Posted September 18, 2009 Share Posted September 18, 2009 still looking good mate...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agripper Posted September 21, 2009 Share Posted September 21, 2009 You not bothering with the 4 wheel drive or is it not viable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enigma Posted September 21, 2009 Share Posted September 21, 2009 You not bothering with the 4 wheel drive or is it not viable? He explained before that for the moment its too difficult to make. Maybe on later replica's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark m uk Posted September 21, 2009 Author Share Posted September 21, 2009 Willyslancs, thanks mate Gripper, Good question, it was covered a few posts previous. The 4X4 system, or more accurately the front axle drive, is not so very complex, but it is totally unavailable, and quite unlike anything else. The differential caseing is at the very centre of the vehicle front and is an integral part of the structure. So, the difficulties are many. That being the situation, I figured it would be better to just totally ignore it. If the Beetle/Schwimmer hybrid is a success, then the problem may be explored in a MKII :-D Thanks for your interest, Regards Mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berna2vm Posted September 21, 2009 Share Posted September 21, 2009 With just rear wheel drive it will have ample traction for most situations. The time when it would be most useful is when you are climbing out of a lake or river and driven front wheels are then very advantageous.Love this project though!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enigma Posted September 21, 2009 Share Posted September 21, 2009 With just rear wheel drive it will have ample traction for most situations. The time when it would be most useful is when you are climbing out of a lake or river and driven front wheels are then very advantageous.Love this project though!! Reverse out of the water or as a alternative use a towrope with another vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark m uk Posted September 21, 2009 Author Share Posted September 21, 2009 Thanks Guys, and dead right too ! The Yanks realised that getting out would be a problem, even with front wheel drive - and every GPA was equipped with a front deck mounted capstan winch for exactly that job. One of the reasons most of the production of GPA's went to Russia is because they were next to useless. Most of western Europe has relatively narrow, fast flowing rivers with steep banks. The US and eastern Europe seem to have wide, shallower, slower flowing rivers with graduated banks, much better for amphibious operations. The Russians loved the GPA's and made their own almost identical version after the war - GAZ. Even with front wheel drive, the Schwimmer struggled, but of course manpower was available. Regards Mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark m uk Posted September 22, 2009 Author Share Posted September 22, 2009 I was hopeing someone here could help me out, I need the dimension of the centres of the input and output shaft on the propeller housing. There are somethings that I really cant scale off the model, Thanks guys,..............Regards Mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 The picture is a bit small but the bolt heads are 9 pixels and the dimension you're after is 152 (ish) pixels so it's 16.88888888x bigger than whatever the bolt heads are. I'd assume they're metric and hence a common size? I'm sure that's no help whatsoever, but hey ho! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark m uk Posted September 22, 2009 Author Share Posted September 22, 2009 (edited) The picture is a bit small but the bolt heads are 9 pixels and the dimension you're after is 152 (ish) pixels so it's 16.88888888x bigger than whatever the bolt heads are. I'd assume they're metric and hence a common size? I'm sure that's no help whatsoever, but hey ho! I really do appreciate the input - if only I was capable of doing the math :-D . A very interesting way to calcalate the size, and I am sure it works, ................................................at least in theory. To be honest, befor I commit myself to something like a weeks work trying to make that part - i'd feel a lot more comfortable if someone passed a 'stick of inches' accross it !............. Thanks again, regards Mark. Edited September 22, 2009 by mark m uk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark m uk Posted September 30, 2009 Author Share Posted September 30, 2009 Blimey, 8 days, no replies. Well I guess no one on this forum has a 166, or at least those that do have A) no interest in this thread, or B) no interest in helping :-D Anyway, I bought one now, and expect delivery soon. So put away your tape measures 166 owners, crisis over - no help required. Point taken. Regards Mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enigma Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 Blimey, 8 days, no replies. Well I guess no one on this forum has a 166, or at least those that do have A) no interest in this thread, or B) no interest in helping :-D Anyway, I bought one now, and expect delivery soon. So put away your tape measures 166 owners, crisis over - no help required. Point taken. Regards Mark. Interest enough, guess nobody has one...no wonder with the prices they fetch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark m uk Posted September 30, 2009 Author Share Posted September 30, 2009 Apart from a few little jobs, and a bit of internet research not much happening with the shcrapwagen. I have been too busy out with the boys 'playing tanks' - had a great weekend. Will post up some progress soon, had a delivery of parts from the CZ R, nothing much - just some little castings and exhaust pipes etc. I have to say, those boys are very good - and agree that they are great to deal with, quick and reliable. Regards to all the shcrapwagen watchers. Mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark m uk Posted October 1, 2009 Author Share Posted October 1, 2009 I deceided to try out some of those czech parts, They certainly look good in the on line catalouge. The price is ......reasonable too. I have to be careful with the budget, and the whole idea was to scratch build, but it makes sense to buy a few parts that I cannot make, or I have no idea what shape or size an item should be. So, I chose some castings - I cant really make structural castings here. I have made castings in the past, but only sort of 'oraments', not stuff that is funtional and has to be stressed. - I got the cast tow hooks, I can make the rest. I also bought a pressing that they mount into - a really complicated pressing for only a handful of pennies. Also, some of the exhaust system. - seems a lot of money at £350, but making one for that is a whole other issue - quicker for me to grit my teeth and lay a couple thousand bricks - paid for. No plate blanks - tenner each. Rear light mounts, 30 sobs each, castings for the propeller housing - ordered them all, but the main one was out of stock- thats the one thing I really, really, really wanted. Then a windsheild, that looked good value at £250 - so I ordered one. Something must have happened in translation because they sent me a canopy/roof support. I am OK to keep that, but I am pissed because it is a part that I could easily make. Maybe I will copy it, and sell it on. Also, one bend was missing from the exhaust system - so altogether not a hugely successful retail experience. + the bank caned me for transfering the funds in CZ Koruna. Now, I have to try and explain that a part is missing - Do you think this picture explains well enough ?....I sent it to Vladimir, I think he will get the point Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark m uk Posted October 4, 2009 Author Share Posted October 4, 2009 Spent the lion share of today playing swimmers I just love this extended summer we are having, up early in the morning, big hearty breakfast - wander out to the garage and start hitting metal - Used my trusty 166 reference book and found a picture of the relevent area to be reproduced. I'd already bought from The CZ R one of the little complicated pressings, and also the cast hooks, so this would be a breeze. Estimated the size of all the relevent pieces, cut them out and gradually folded and beat them into a suitable shape. Then, cut some heads off bolts, cut some tube into lengths, cut and drilled out some reinforcement bars - checked it all against the picture of an original Then, punched all the holes and screwed it into place, useing alternate holes. The screws can be removed after the first weld, and those holes welded up making it super strong, and when dressed off has an appearance like factory spot welds as per the original. Also made reinforced propeller mount, and bolted that in place ready for a big weld up. Then after the welding ..............I have to confess to getting my mate round with his big mig - my experience and equipment is just not up to this job. I have deceided to just use my little DIY welder to tack stuff in place, then let a grown up actually glue it together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willyslancs Posted October 4, 2009 Share Posted October 4, 2009 looking cool mate............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormin Posted October 4, 2009 Share Posted October 4, 2009 Then after the welding ..............I have to confess to getting my mate round with his big mig - my experience and equipment is just not up to this job. I have deceided to just use my little DIY welder to tack stuff in place, then let a grown up actually glue it together. Got to say your welding in previous pics certainly looked very good. It's harder to get decent welds on thin panels without distortion than doing the heavier structural stuff! How did you come about the panels over the rear, with compound curves? They look like panels off another car adjusted to fit and a very good job again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark m uk Posted October 4, 2009 Author Share Posted October 4, 2009 Got to say your welding in previous pics certainly looked very good. It's harder to get decent welds on thin panels without distortion than doing the heavier structural stuff! How did you come about the panels over the rear, with compound curves? They look like panels off another car adjusted to fit and a very good job again. Thank you, that is exactly right. I made paper mache type 'casting' of the sort of shape I wanted, then found a close approximation, cut it, beat it and generally altered it and made it fit ! Thanks for your interest, Regards Mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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