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  1. http://alvissabre.blogspot.co.uk/
  2. Well here is the start of my latest Morris restoration, as always I will try and add info as we go, I expect this to be a 12month project, and I have started with some smaller components that are already restored. so basically it is the PU version on a morris chassis, so will sit nicely next to my Humber PU as the back end will be the same. as it stands, it's reasonably complete, bar the back end, I do have all the original cab, doors and windscreen, the engine turns over freely and has been kept in good order, though it will still go through a full rebuild this winter. so here is a lovely photo of a MCC PU in France 1940, this is what I'm going to model mine on.
  3. I think it's about time I start a blog about my current restoration project. This is one of the diesel Scimitar hulls which Withams were stripping and scrapping about a year ago. The hulls were what was left after stripping the vehicles to build Scimitar 2. Pretty much everything was stripped from them, engine, gearbox, electrics, final drives, turret, turret ring, wheels, track and more. I asked about buying some bits from them and ended up buying one of the hulls, which was a massive gamble. Diesel vehicles are rare in private hands and the diesel upgrade parts are highly sought after by overseas governments who want to do diesel upgrades. In order to free up some money I had to sell my Lightweight Land Rover, which was painful as I'd owned it for years, my Snatch project which I'd just finished collecting bits for, plus both the Sabre projects we were doing. One was nearly finished and went abroad, the other is being restored by Paul Donovan who is doing a brilliant job. Here are a few photos of the hull at Withams, and once delivered.
  4. Well my Packard clipper finally arrived into Felixstowe docks from the US last saturday. After finally getting customs clearance I was able to collect the car on Thursday. The car is in pretty good order and I have to decide whether I leave as is, or do a full restoration. The engine is a straight Eight and runs very smooth. heres a couple of pics are take some more over the weekend. Howard
  5. Have posted a few pictures of my K2 Y ambulance. First saw it after going in the search for spares and stupidly thought that something could be made of it!! Excuse the pictures, they are pictures of pictures as the scanner doesn't seem to be working. Curse these modern tools... Jerry
  6. Photos of a friends Humber in Italy, I will update photos as he sends them to me.
  7. Dear All I bought another SUMB as a donor for the missing rear body parts on my other project SUMB - it turns out to be in much better condition so I am now going to work on No. 17310 first. I went up to East Keale in Lincolnshire a week ago Friday with Phil from Taylor Commercials at Haughley (a pleasure to work with!) and retrieved it home to get the roof off so it will go in my barn (8 foot clearance vs 8 foot 10 inches high to the top of the hoops). The defects found so far on this one are: Poor idling (vendor thought one cylinder not firing and supplied spare set of plugs) Brake fluid reservoir empty (I expect normal leaking wheel cylinder seals that I saw on every SUMB I worked on so far) Indicator switch replaced with a modern toggle and 2 or 4 lamps not flashing (front right and rear left I think) and dashboard indicator mimic lights not working Brake lights not working (I suspect the microswitch on the end of the air assisted slave cylinder is U/S same as my first SUMB) and will likely replace it with a pedal switch One original French and one UK headlight so dipping wrong way Bottom edge of one door rotten with rust RH edge U-channel of the load bed rusted through for much of the length Missing LH headlamp retaining ring One flat battery (7V on headlamp load after 24H charge) Michelin ZXL tyres have sidewall cracking (as ever - I only buy Continentals or Uniroyals now) Fitted with 2 off 065 batteries one in each box rather than 2 x 038 batteries in each box - non standard cabling as a result needs reverting to original Both front windscreens cracked (I have spares) Steering wheel play seems excessive (I know where there is a spare steering gear box) Brake pipes look corroded (I'll probably let the MoT garage take care of that before presenting it for test!) On the plus side the engine starts and runs better than my old first V8 SUMB on a good day as long as I keep the hand throttle above idle, there is a good roof, the back door added by the gunbus conversion is mechanically sound, the electrical wiring harness is intact, the cab is largely rust free (I think because of earlier repairs by the vendor) and the V5 information matches the vehicle. In other words nothing that a bit of welding, new brake pipes, a piece of steel channel, a new set of brake seals and redirection of the parts stockpiled for No 18595 wont cure I plan to equip this one as a motor caravan to simplify future MoT (it is was imported by "The Army Farm" and registered 1972 which is consistent with the end of the SUMB production run whereas most or the Gunbus Company ones with KASxxx registrations are registered as 1959 which was the first prototype - from my research the truth is in between with most of the 10,000 or so military SUMBs made between 1962 and 1970). It was originally registered as agricultural and lived on a Lincolnshire farm, so MoT will be a new experience for it. My daughter insists we get it ready for Beltring next year rather than sleep in the 12x12 tent again (it leaked in the storm night this year)! I already have most of the bits needed in store (hob/sink unit, chemical toilet, water tank) and can build the table, seats and beds, but will need to get side windows added to the tilt to complete the DVLA check list for a DIY motor home conversion at https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/412160/Registering_a_DIY_Caravan.pdf . Does anyone in Suffolk or nearby do that kind of work currently ? I attach a couple of photos from the e-Bay listing as a "before" record of the vehicle condition. I plan on keeping the back door but adding a skin to keep the weather out. The fixed steps have been removed as they will be a nuisance on road (and make the truck too long to fit in the barn!) - I have a much lighter aluminium set in stock I have now got the hoops off (after drilling out a few bolts added by the gunbus conversion that were completely solid) and just have to sort the battery so I can drive it onto the flatbed and off into the barn before getting Taylors back to shift it. Iain
  8. In a new purpose built shed somewhere in the south of England, the restoration begins.
  9. I believe CVRT steering calipers (and pads) are in fact Jaguar E Type calipers and pads - apart from the seals (not the piston boots) which are different for mineral oil. It is possible therefore, if I am correct, to fit E Type calipers (on an exchange basis?) and Landrover steering master cylinders, and not use mineral fluid in the steering but DOT 5 (silicon). Diana
  10. The story about this engine is: My father has bought it 20 years ago. The chap told that took the engine from create and put it to his garage. He would like make any agricultural vehicle. :-D And now is time put this engine to my K30, but first check it!
  11. WW2 20cwt GS trailer #5 MK1 restoration. The Trailer was converted to a 7kw generator trailer post war by the Army, it has support legs & overrun braking added. This will be very useful behind the Morris C8 as its brakes are quite poor at the best of time.
  12. With the exception of the beautiful Valentine in NZ being posted here, and a couple of others, seems like most of the threads here were started a while ago and not much new stuff lately so I thought I would post some interesting ones from FB because they are active and lots of new pics being posted. Stug 3 ausf D in Kent, amazing job on this one from a shooting range wreck, very close to rolling on it's own power https://www.facebook.com/StugIIIAusfDRestoration/ Sdkfz 164 Nashorn, ( Netherlands) this ones moving along nicely and especially interesting as there's only 2 other known vehicles in the world. Currently looking for parts too https://www.facebook.com/Nashorn.SD.KFZ.164.restauration The 2 half-tracks Sdkfz 250 and Sdkfz 7 pulled from the chicken River in Poland. Really great work on these by a museum. https://www.facebook.com/PanzerFarm/ Stug 3 Ausf G Alket (Poland?) https://www.facebook.com/StugIIIG/?ref=py_c The Tiger 1 Replica at the AAAM https://www.facebook.com/Ausarmourworkshop/ know of any others?
  13. Hi I have just purchased a very sorry looking AMX13. It will need total restoration as has been sat outside for over 20 years (!) Everything is knackered.. It's also been badly vandalised ;-( Ok do you or anyone else you know, have any AMX parts to help out - or some leads on parts! I think I'm going to need; Engine (take out one minimum) Possibly gearbox Turret as it has a post war incorrect one.. (very long story that involves it being used in filming in the 80's) Drivers seat, wiring loom etc etc etc Any help gratefully accepted - any leads to some key items at a good price will result in reward! Beer or beer tokens.. I know you will ask for pictures - they will be forth coming - when I retrieve them from my broken I-phone (screen is cracked from dropping hot weld on it!) For now here's a picture of my latest resto project - an AML90 - that should keep you happy for now.. Anyone notice a french theme here?? Thanks Baz (Bristol)
  14. Hi I am in need of a chaffee, amx or ebr turret, Condition is irrelevant. A very tall order I know - but any leads to confirmed available turrets very welcome. Thanks for your help ebarrimore@hotmail.com
  15. My latest purchase arived today. A 1940 BSA M20. Dont know a lot about old bikes really but it has had the engine re-built but the timing needs to be set up and the carb fitted aswel as a few other jobs. It is missing the speedo and bracket and i am not sure what else. Does anyone know if any history can be found on the bikes service at all? I believe it was registered in Holland after the war but other than that i do not know. Any help would be appreciated
  16. Well the work has now commenced on the full rebuild of a Dodge Half Ton Command Car. All the fuel lines, brake lines, engine, and other removable items have been stripped. The Body has been lifted from the chassis and the running gear also removed from the chassis. The chassis has been mounted in a Turn Table which I had fabricated by R.H.Barrell Engineering Ltd, and they have made a fantastic job to. The turn table made it a lot easier to blast and prime the chassis, and it will make it a lot easier for repair work, Its also designed to take adjustable rails so I can bolt on the bodt for repairs.. I have also had all of the brake cylinders and master cylinder relined by Past Parts. I have got most of the replacement parts now in stock, so the rebuild should move along a quite a nice pace. Although I still have the chevrolet C60s on the go but its a stop due to waiting for parts. Here are a few pictures of state of play on the C.Car and its arrival. Howard.
  17. This time last year we were just starting out on restoring the Bedford MW. Having built a new body out of wood, and enjoyed learning the new skills and challenge, we started looking for the next project. I've always liked the Mutt, and built 3 1/35 scale Mutts when I was younger. I saw some for sale in Malta and decided it was worth a look. Looking on the intenet showed that most parts were easy to source. For some reason I decided not to bother going to look, but bought one based on a few emailed photos. I think this was probably a bad idea, as I was quite upset with myself when it arrived. I had a choice of 4 and on reflection I probably bought the worst one! Shipping from Malta was very quick and there were no problems. I collected it in late October. First view of the vehicle after the trip from Malta... The body is very very bad. I suspect this may be the most worst Mutt anyone has tried to restore. It has a lot of bodged repairs. The Maltese don't seem to know what they were doing, in a lot of places they have cut a new piece of steel and patched it in with filler. On top of this, everything was loose and all split pins had been replaced with bent nails! Spot the bent nail... In order to stop myself feeling too depressed I decided to crack on with the project. About 3 hours after unloading the Mutt I had the engine out. Mechanically they are very simple, and well thought out. Going... Going... Gone! With the engine out, we lifted the vehicle up to get a proper look at the underside. It's not a pretty sight! It has rusted in all the usual places, with the usual Maltese repairs. The front floors seem to have been replaced about 3 times! The support structures have been removed and replaced with box section. The vehicle has certainly led a hard life in Malta. When it arrived all 4 drive shafts were removed. It turns out the front ones were removed from several of the Mutts in Malta, but the rear ones seem to have been removed for another reason.... Rear Diff bracket repair - Maltese stylee! After removing the diff I discovered there are no teeth left on the pinion! (Not got a photo of this yet) This explains the lack of rear drive shafts as the diff was locked solid. I suspect it has been run with no oil in it. We carried on stripping down the body, removing the wiring, pipes and anything which would un-bolt. The front axle assy came off easily, just 6 bolts hold it in place. Front axle unit The rear axle arms have been disassembled and are now ready for blast. Rear axle arm Currently the body is on its side in the garage. I am cutting out as much rust and filler as I can before sending it off for blasting. I have bought a large under body kit, which should take care of most of the damage, and a pair of front floors. Next on the shopping list are 2 new sides and a new rear panel, some front wing repair panels and a few other bits and pieces. I don't have a spot welder and I am only just learning how to mig weld, so this is going to be another steep learning curve! A couple of new bits in place to see where they will go... When not working on the vehicle I have been doing a bit of research. All data plates had been removed, except the BUDD plate under the bonnet. This is a useful plate to have though... From this plate I have been able to discover that this is a Ford M151A2. It was built in March 1971. I even have a US Army number for it. This is the first bit of positive news as it means eventually it should be tax exempt. There are various numbers under the paint on the front bumper, under the Maltese green, so I may be able to find out even more about it. This Mutt probably spent most of it's life in storage at the US Army base at Burton Wood. When this was closed in the early 90s a large number of Mutts were still in storage. These were given away to other armies, lots went to Mexico but a batch was sent to Malta. I'm pretty sure this is how mine came to be in Malta, which is why it survives and is un-cut like so many M151s. It's a shame the Maltese didn't look after it, and from the looks of it decided to park it in the sea! That's it for part one. I'll post more photos as I get work carried out. Hopefully it'll be ready for blasting fairly soon, then the real work can begin.... Chris
  18. The incredible iconic StuG ausf D restoration is nearly complete. Restorer is the talented Jon Phillips , who is also known for a number of replica vehicles. A fantastic vehicle lovingly restored on a very tight budget. The running , completed vehicle will be on display and in action at this years YWE show. See the restoration on Jons FaceBook page. https://www.facebook.com/StugIIIAusfDRestoration/?fref=ts and view the video that gives the history of this particular vehicle. [/
  19. Hi All Have Just found an Austin Champ, well two really but the second one is a parts only donor.The truck I am going to restore is complete though has been stood for 15 plus years, it also comes with a narrow track trailer. Having restored mainly WWII vehicles in the past so this is going to be something different !!!. Am looking forward to getting them all moved to the workshop so that I can see what I am up against, I have around 1.5 tonnes of spares to sort through as well, which I hope will help fund this project, hopefully I will get it to Evesham next June for the Champ Camp. Watch this space :nut:. Jeremy Tobin.
  20. My Royal Enfield WD. CO. 350 ohv nearing completion, now complete and running fine, its first outing was to the Guernsey Celebrations.
  21. Hi All, Now that the DKW is done and running well, i went out to find myself another project. Recently i found a BMW R35, 350cc OHV motorbike . Like most period BMW motorcycles it is driven by a drive shaft instead of a chain. It has had a previous restoration on which they used some post war parts (headlight, front brake drum,...). Engine doesn't currently run, will try to start it later. First need to check the Bosch Dynamo and SUM carburetor. It has quite some play on the rear wheel, I guess the bearings might be worn. Headlight stays have been mounted incorrect. It's original color would have been black with white lining, but i plan to restore it as a Wehrmacht (heer) dispatch rider's bike.
  22. Evening all Have been meaning to start this thread for a while, but have only just got round to it. Hopefully it will be of some use to those of you who contemplating this job in the near future. Basically, I have used my Sabre, 04 FD 34, as a bit of a hack for the last 3 or 4 years. When I bought it it needed a new main brake m/c, new rubber donuts on the drive shaft, and a new starter motor. Other than that I havent done much to it, largely because I have more than enough stuff waiting its turn so wanted to keep at least one vehicle complete and running! Since I first drove it I think I've known that it was, well rather gutless, struggling to hit 30 even on the flat. So, having acquired a small stock of recon J60's last summer, I decided to take the plunge. A compression test showing all the cylinders at between 85 and 110 psi confirmed that this engine was terminally tired. First some pics of the general condition and state of the engine bay once the decking was removed. I did this with an engine crane and a mate. It is perfectly possible for two people to remove the decking by hand, but my back isn't what it used to be so I decided to play it safe. The condition is pretty typical for an unrestored vehicle that has been 'well used'..
  23. evening every one this is not a full on in depth restoration thread but more of the occasional post as things happen. i have been fortunate to be able to give Andy a hand with his Comet which is good for both of us as i get the opportunity to learn about both the Comet and what it takes to restore a derelict tank to full working order. plus it has got Andy motivated and excited again which has been proven with the endless large grins and smiles over the weekend:D. starting off saturday morning by removing the mud guards and getting the periscopes un bolted we soon followed with the removal of all the top guide rollers from the side of the hull and started the lengthy task of removing the counter sunk bolts which hold the 5 sections of armour plating. by 10:30 saturday night we had 3 sections of armour plate of and thinking about sunday. today we had the rear section of armour of the right side and by 6 pm had the same 4 sections removed from the other side and to are surprise every bolt was oiled and came out fairly easily bar 1 which resisted so we had to burn the head off. some of the flush counter sunk bolts had to be warmed up but came out no probs. pics from today: saturdays progress with mud guards and the added on steel plates removed, periscopes un bolted and the 3 armour plates removed. sunday morning ready to start again next job is to un seize the front right idler arm and remove the left arm so the final armour plates can be removed. then will be ready to remove all the suspension ready for shot blasting and painting. cheers sam
  24. After some thought while restoring my halftrack, I decided to put a more modern engine in it. When I bought it it came with a Ford industrial engine which I believe there was a company in the 60's making this conversion. So what engine do I put in it? I have a friend who works at first bus and he managed to get me a Cummins 6BT that had just come out of a bus. The next task I had was to fit the halftrack gearbox to the Cummins engine. A few people suggested find the proper bell housing for the engine to suit the gearbox but I had other ideas. I work as a design and development engineer, doing 2D and 3D design as well as good old fashion manual turning, milling ect and love a good project so why not make a adaptor plate to join the halftrack gearbox the the Cummins engine? How hard can it be...? The first thing to do was find some material, luckily I had a piece of 3/4" thick plate I have had kicking about for years thinking one day it will come in handy. We flame cut it leaving about 1/4" on both the OD and ID. The next minor problem I had was it wouldn't fit on our lathe at work, so how do I overcome it? The solution, use a rotary table on the milling machine and to do this I had the make a fixture to be able to hold the plate.
  25. After my introduction, here my futur project when it will be complet. For the moment i search two headlights, support for the second tank and the tank, the front bumper thanks. Now more photo of this vehicle.
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