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About Me










  1. A few years ago we saw the TV series of 'Foyles War' and Dayna just had to have it. So we bought the DVD's and we decided to keep our eyes out for a suitable car. Wanting to do the full ATS bit we finally found our Flying 12 and started the resto. So here is a quick preview of deconstruction and some resto work to date.
  2. For all those on a quest for conduit try :- http://www.rapidonline.com/ Diana
  3. I am installing an Oil Pressure Gauge on my Daimler Armoured Car and need a source for the correct copper pile and fittings. Can anyone suggest a source please. Also still looking for a couple or more of these 11:00 X 20 Avon Track grip Tyres to match the existing.
  4. If you've tried every means possible and still have spongy hydraulic brakes or a hydraulic clutch cylinder put the pedal under as much pressure as possible for 24 hours and you will probably find the sponginess has gone! Diana
  5. Here is my latest piece on my restoration for the earlier bits go to www.nickysmith.me BUT I will be posting on here as well in the hope my mistakes can help some other folks and of course there will be me asking questions as well! My latest wonder is how to strip out the Artic Heater that's in this Landy! I've been looking forward to a couple of days off so I could get stuck into the Land Rover again but the weather hasn't been on my side. I did get to do a fair bit yesterday before the heavens opened for good but today it has been raining since I got up so I shall take solace in hunting ebay for bargain parts that I need but cannot afford. So yesterday I jumped up bright and early to the comment from Wifey of "Why don't you have a lie in?" You would think that after 15 years together she would know I ma still a big kid at heart and with something as tempting on the drive as I have sleep is an awkward chore that just has to be done in the shortest time possible! My plan of attack was straight forward...I wanted to weld up those holes in the passenger foot well. First off was the near side wing as this is very badly dented and out of shape and the replacement is waiting in my shed to be fitted. I disconnected all of the wiring for the lights and figured out a bolt at a time exactly where abouts they were all located by thinking to myself "well that should come off now" only to find it wouldn't and then searching for the offending bolts they fitted as overkill at the factory. Whilst taking off the wing I realised that the front bumper was in a bad state of affairs and could do with replacing so it was whipped off using a wheel brace and brute force. With all of this of I could now access the front floor well without having to perform contortionist acts with a welder in my hand. The area was ground back to give me some clean metal to weld to and off I set with the welder... The welder wouldn't work and it took me some time to figure out why the feed wasn't playing. It wouldn't feed because the top couple of layers of weld had gone rusty, when I thought back to the welders last use I realised it was over four years ago so it wasn't surprising really. With the rusty wire stripped out off I went to weld and play again. The floor pan is now hole free but the rain kicked in before I got to grind my over enthusiastic welds down so that's my first job for when the weather clears. The "Artic Weather heater" that's in this Landy has bits all overt the place including this heater in front of the radiator! So I think I will strip the lot out altogether once the bodywork is sorted. After stripping the wing off I found the normal heater to have rusty holes in it and on the bracket mounting it to the body work so this was stripped out ready for a replacement once I get to the putting it back together stage. The only thing ordered this week are a pair of battery clamps for the terminals. Once the weather clears I will be starting on the painting of he chassis I can reach and then the refitting of the floor pan that was removed whilst I was welding. Landy Project Costs Land Rover £375 Sanding Discs £11.70 Ignition Barrel £20 Heritage letter £21.75 2x Batteries and rear 1/4 light £35 Pair Battery Terminal Clamps £3.99 TOTAL £467.44
  6. Hello friends these kind of jeeps were produced during the fifties in Argentina under Willys license, basically it’s a CJ5 but the engine is not an hurricane so it is very interesting because this engine by Willys design was only produced in this country,they were for the civilian and military use. My father buy it new and also the trailer in 1958 to do farm jobs so I decided to make a restoration because the jeep was broke. With two friends we went to the farm during 2009 when we arrived and take a look to the jeep, then we say: It looks like a Barn Find!! Then we come towing the IKA jeep with my GPW 43 in second gear all the trip and the trailer with a MB 44 ,240 km on dirt roads to my home the trip took us 2 days and the average was 18 km per hour ..
  7. Figured I would start a thread of the restoration of 54-82540. Its one of the original 124 Ferret Scout cars Canada purchased in 1953. This one was released from Canadian service in 1983. First the recovery photos. Tucked away in this garage for the past 8 or 9 years. A very slow way to load a trailer on a hot day... Loaded and ready to roll
  8. Latest editon to IMVG fleet. This Saracen (Mk1?? - old style turret with piston ports) was last driven @ 2002 during the making of the movie "Bloody Sunday" and possibly "Reign of Fire" - both filmed in Ireland. Data plate is missing from inside but reg no is 32 BA 84 and it has alv205 stamped into armour above read doors. After its movie career it was sold onto a paint ball site were it lay dormant till late this Summer. Obviously its in quite a sad state at the moment. We are currently trying to source a supplier for a head gasket to suit as one of the spark plugs has rusted in place and partially disintergrated so will probably have to remove head to get at this. Engine did fire up before this and we are in the process of fitting electronic ignition as well. Doe's anyone has any knowledge of its history whilst in the Army?
  9. Hi Folks I will need some help on this restauration project as i do this for the first time. The restauration will take place in phases. This will be phase 1. Disassembly First I removed the Drivers cabin's Canvas. This one realy needs to be repaired or even rebuild. I heard that there are manufacturers who do this. I can send them the canvas if needed for measurement. Has anyone got me the adres of such a person/manufacturer? Or an alternative solution? Can someone provide me with pictures about the inner cabine, dashboard, chairs, ... Can someane provide me with pictures or tips about the engine? This one needs serious repaires as it makes a strange and loud sound (It bangs continuously) We'll have it overhauled. If anyone knows someone with a lot of expirience with Morrice Commercial engines and/or reconditioning engines, please let me know asap. Pictures hints and tips are all welcome. We especialy need pictures about the inner view like the dashboard, seats and the engine compartment. Any information about getting spare parts is welcome. Phase 2 will be the back cabin. The chassis and suspension are in surprisingly good condition. Phase 3 will be the radio equipment. I guess this will be the hardest part ... Can anyone tell me how many antenna poles were fittet on the side? Thanks a lot in advance and euh ... LET'S DO THIS! :tup::
  10. From the start: Chevy C.1.5.8421 ISOLE No 1922.55.35 on seller's yard ready for transport in it's new home
  11. Well here it is, recently purchased on ebay for the magic sum of £500 it was complete with all its kit and documents. However, its was far worse than expected, when it eventually arrived home. To be honest it was only fit for scrap, if I broke it down it would make around £1500 - £2000 in scrap and leave me with piles of spares for another. But I cant do it, these are slowly dying off or being converted. photograph I purchased it from Arrived at home - doesn't look too bad what it really was like
  12. I have just started to have a go at stripping down and rebuilding a Scorpion CVRT. My friends and family recon it is beyound my time and patients so here goes........ One week in and i have the engine panels off etc and i'm hoping to work out how to get the seized J60 engine out. I have used about 5 lires of diesel to loosen off rusty bolts etc and have only lost one knuckle so far. A few bolts are far too rusty and will have to be ground off - which is a shame as i will now have to try and get them out and rethread - which i have never tried before!
  13. Hi all well here we go, some of you might have heard about this when it was over in france last year. Well if not here we go. This thread will detail how I have fitted a Cummins 6BT and ZF s5-42 gearbox out of a Leyland DAF 10ton tipper into my GMC 352, having had the truck for many years I have got fed up with the fuel costs, so when this engine and box came up for sale I thought it would be an ideal engine swap !!! Some said it could not be done, but I have done it and also covered roughly 700 miles fuel consumption is well under half of what I was doing.. First step remove cab and old engine and gearbox to get to chassis rails and see what I have to play with. here we have removed the cab complete which is heavy as some of you will know. This is what we used for cab and engine moving high enough to get the pieces over the front of the rear body. Now time to get the old engine and box out we did the same thing as the lifting frame is stationary we had to move the truck about.
  14. Hi fellows, Somedays ago, searching for some info at the web, I came across this forum and this link. I must admit that I was really shocked with this restoration! I´m not sure if the restorer is located at UK neither if the jeep has been finished: http://www.migweb.co.uk/forums/projects-restorations/513006-non-vaux-1942-willys-jeep-ww2-ground-up-build.html If anybody of you know more about this story, I´ll be really grateful to read more about this one! Thanks a lot!
  15. Since buying the Land Rover I have not been able to to do much except what it required for the MOT and making lists of what needs doing and what parts I need to source. It has to be a rolling restoration, as if it is not usable I will probably not get anything done to it as it would have to live at my parents and probably anny the owner of the farm. I know its a bit less exciting than some of the other stuff being restored but you have to start somewhere. So what did it need for the MOT Working electrics, well ligts and wipers at least. the lights all woked but non of the warning/repeater lights on the dash did. Multiple reasons were found for this blown or no bulbs easy fix.Even then they did strange things. The indicator repeator would only work with the 6 way switch in a certain location but the indicators worked. Investigation revealed a cut cable on the hazard switch and a reconnection to the light switch. Reconnect wire to correct location all works. Drove it in the dark and could not see where I was going. Yes the original prefocus headlights are worse than I thought. Not helped by the fact that the lights are adjusted to illuminate the bumper. Hang o I think these lights were adjusted last year fr its MOT for the PO, cause it originally failled on them. Never mind isome nice halogen conversions (I know not original but more convenient than night vision goggles) and adjust some screws, easy. Push turn and off with one headlight, why does the other one not turn, oh yes the adjusters have snapped and it has a self tapping screw in the bottom. All adjusters siezed, snapped of de-slotted. So it now has new headlights and bowls. Brakes these are important mine don't quite seem right, sorry I mean left atleast that is the way it turns when you brake and I am sure there was brake fluid in the resevoir. Right fron piston jammed in and weeping, rightt rear shoes fitted incorrectly, left rear nicly lubricated by the blown axle oil seal. Fix the front brakes, before checking rear, Whats this fluid running down the bulkhead support and dripping on the floor, oh yes its brake fluid, master cylinder also leaking. Never mind it is all done and now stops Tyres 2mm tread on rear and plenty on the front, spare has loads to. Thats Ok untill I take them off and check the inner sidewalls. The spares fine but why i it mounted the wrong way up. Oh yes to hide that 360 degree crack in the side wall. Oh well 5 new tyres. What do I get Avons, some of those nice American ones with white lettering or the cheap budget ones. You got it the cheap budget ones I liked the tread pattern, it looks right. Just changing the tyres has improved the look (my opinion) Off for the MOT, not much left on a Series 3 to fail on. It passed without even needing the new lights adjusting. Bet we can't do that again. Of course I fixed the axle leak and the one from the transfer box, the one from the unclipped fuel line into the carb and fitted a new thermostat. Have replaced the fuel, oil and water temp guages and they now work, old ones had a rust problem. So now happer to drive as I know if its going to overheat or run out of fuel. Now for the rest of it. Will keep posting as things progress. Mike Pics after/ guages and before.
  16. Old girl came in this weak, few little jobs to get her running right but other than that she's fairly complete
  17. A while ago I had the idea of turning my Jeep Cherokee into a truck/trailer queen, im always breaking it at offroad events and my other half is always worried how we are going to get home with a busted Jeep and caravan, so the search began for a recovery truck capable of carrying the Jheep and towing the van. I happened upon a vehicle whilst trawling the net which I truly lusted after, but my sensible head engaged gear and the vehicle was sold, unusually I would be sort of gutted that I didnt get what I wanted but on this occasion I wasnt overly bothered and didnt think too much about it, we went away two or three weeks after to an offroad event and I did have a little think that I wish I bought the said vehicle but once again it went out of my head, whilst returning from the event an email came to my phone saying an item I was watching had been re-listed, when I got home I had a look on the pc and found the truck I nearly bought had indeed been re-listed, this time I didnt let it get away. I was so excited, mixed emotions that I got it but also wondering what on earth I done, am I absolutely barkin lol ?? Anyway after a couple weeks and with the help of a highly recommended heavy haulage company the truck arrived at my place, the previous owner needed it gone from his yard but I was unable to move it as it would have been totally impractical and imprudent and illegal to do so, a call from the Boss of the haulage firm who I really didnt know suggested for no extra cost to lift and recover my truck to his secure yard and once a suitable backload was found they would transport my truck to me, I wasnt in a major hurry for it so I thanked him for his generous offer and drove up to complete my purchase and see the truck onto the step frame. Im not one for giving my cars or vehicles a name but this truck deserved one, meet The "Recovenator" Since I bought it I have really gotten into the idea of its military history not that I know about that, it is different to how it was, I gone military mad lol and Im really looking forward to displaying it at whatever shows I can make it too and I think the truck will be awesome once I have gotten it back to its original military colour that it was sprayed in from new which is hidden under the hideous matt black paint that has been thrown at it, the chassis and running gear appear to be in tiptop condition however the cab is in a bit of a mess and needs quite a bit of work. If its ok with the forum I will post up quite a lot of pics of the work as it progresses, I host the pics offsite so wont be taking up forum space, I have some more to put up but ill do this another time. Tim.
  18. Well here are some of the pictures from the daimler ferret that i have acquired and started stripping. Man its alot of work to tear that engine apart its quite the design.
  19. Hello,Take a look in my album, Ford T Ambulance. Hope you enjoy. This is a 1917, and I want to know the story of this car after ww1, how it ended up in Norway in the early twenties . It was shortened and used as farmers pickup some years and placed in a barn in the fifties. I would like to know if this is a French or US made Ambulance. My plan in the restoring prosess is to keep it as untouched as possible, but I have to make the body new in the correct dimensions. Some parts are missing, hope to find some,but now I do not know what I need. Have a good day from Jon
  20. Hello Everyone, I bought this Trailer last August and towed it all the way to Malta it survived the 2000mile journey, fully loaded with parts without a single problem Departure Day Black forest Germany Straight away i started taking things apart with the intention to get everything working and storing it until i finish my Rover 8 FFR but i got carried away the front bit was quite rotten and there was no way i could repair it so i ended up rebuilding the whole front and finally this is how it looks now more photos here http://s719.photobucket.com/user/cstivala/library/Brockhouse%20Half%20Ton%20Narrow%20Track%20MK1?sort=3&page=1 I will try to update at least weekly Chris
  21. OK, so this is only MY last Fox restoration (I have now done 7). 08FD92 is an early Fox showing non of the later modifications. It is in remarkable original condition, and is still in the state it was recieved in my workshop following purchase from a well known dealer (with 3 others). Like most Foxes, it was supplied without an engine pack and has suffered cosmetically from being left outside for 20 years! It is surprisingly intact (apart from the engine) and I have lots of evidence to believe that the mileage shown on the speedo is a genuine 834 miles (yes, that's eight hundred and thirty four) since new! Being the last in a series of Foxes to be restored, I have kept the best of the NOS parts required from my stock for this project. The list of parts and assemblies is quite extensive and half fills one of my containers. It includes:- all 3 seat assemblies, new wheels and tyres (one has been fitted before), power steering pump, bilge pump, turret traverse box, alternator control box, air cleaner, all exterior lights, smoke dischargers and bins, first aid bin, pioneer tools, periscopes, complete radio installation (the 2 x 353s are tested take-outs), the majority of floor plates, fuel pump, exhaust system (silencer is an excellent take off), exhaust guard, fire extinguishers and a myriad of smaller parts (like the commander's foot pressel and map reading light) that make a big difference to the overall impression of a competent restoration. The engine is originally a domestic (XJ6) unit that was re-built by a competant (supposedly) Jaguar garage and was fitted in the prototype Fox. It is very similar to the original 101A that would have been fitted to this Fox. I thought it would be an easy task to fit a military sump and just pop the engine in! Not so fast.. the distributor is loose...its just come off in my hand! The learning process continues. Domestic engines are different in many details. The military distributor mounting plate does not fit the hole in the block as there is no recess and the holes are different. It had been modified by removing the mating spiggot and mounting with just the one bolt (which quickly became loose). No wonder it was running very erratically before it was removed from the prototype! A trepanning tool was made using a tungsten-tipped boring tool, and a slow speed (Wolf) drill used to cut the new locating recess in the (cast iron) block. Great, it's an excellent fit. The existing bolt hole is enlarged and tapped for the correct bolt and a new second bolt hole is made. A spare distributor is fitted with electronic ignition and a propper Fox distributor cap is re-furbished with new parts and fitted. All the cables feeding the ignition are replaced, including the new 24v power feed and suppression filter to feed the electronic ignition. Now for the sump change. Fluid flywheel drained and removed (seal and flange leaking anyway). Bell housing removed. (there were no triangular bell housing supports!). And the old automotive sump is removed. Gee, that oil pump suction pipe is much longer than a military center-feed one! At this stage I remove the camshaft covers in order to check the valve timing (I had noticed that the old ignition leads were not numbered correctly!). Wow! It's 270 degrees out. (actually slightly more as I could not adjust the ignition timing to the correct point). Again, no wonder that it was running like a dog! So the oil pump has to be removed and the distibutor/crankshaft driving gear re-set to the correct position. (using cam shaft setting gauge blocks and the dummy timing distributor). Re-fit a correct oil suction pipe and put it all back together with the correct militay sump (using all new tab washers)..not forgetting to fill the oil pump with oil to assist in rapid priming of the oil system. As an interesting (to some) aside...I have been told that the Jaguar racing boys fill their oil pumps with heavy oil (and sometimes light grease) to achieve rapid priming of the oil pressure before damage occurs to a rebuilt engine due to lack of oil on new bearings. Whilst I have all this engine stripped to such an extent I decide to build it up as a CVRT variant and run it up on the test rig (Fox build will not fit in the test cradle). Oil pressure achieved after about 10 seconds cranking. (the big gauge) Switch on fuel pump...and it fires up quickly. Still running like a dog... whats that hissing noise...there is a small second manifold vacuum tapping (apart from the one for the brake servo, which is alredy blanked off). This must have been open in its last installation...again no wonder it was not running right. I suspect it is an early variant of the disrtibutor breathing system. A bit of inuslating tape cures the problem. Re-set the slow running jets for a nice even pick-up when you ram the throttle open (on a warm engine)..check for obvious leaks and strange noises..using a long screwdriver like a stethoscope to listen to each valve tappet... and take photos for posterity...damn, forgot the camera. I look forward to running the engine again on Monday morning...taking photos at various engine revs (even checking the limiter...scary) and doing a few more checks before removing engine from the rig. Here is one showing a second multimeter checking the temperature sender (Fox variant only) And a couple of shots showing the start of the 'dressing up as a Fox' Will post more next week showing preparations for the engine installation and re-building (another) wheelstation. Jon
  22. we took the Engine out today, needs a total rebuild, so its off to the workshop to be done. Sold Morris to pay for it. Still need a 1938 Humber workshop manual, i have all the army ones from the 1940s.
  23. In our workshop we have a Hillman Tilly for restoration and I have had the owners permission to put up some pictures of the ongoing work. When it came to us some months ago it was in a very poor state and hd been partially dismantled by the previous owner. After removing the engine ,transmission and axles, the body was placed on a spit which would make working on the body easier and also support it when sections were removed. The nearside sill and floor area was the starting point cutting away the old rusty sections making copys and then fitting them. As there are no replacment panels avaliable to buy they will all have to be hand made. My nephew Paul who works for me is an absolute genius at making any shape from a flat sheet of steel , his bodywork skills are second to none. As time allows I will post more photos. Jim.
  24. I've just started to restore a Polston Quad AA Gun. Managed to get the donkey engine running but there's a bad fuel leak from the lift pump. It's been stripped down and it looks like the diaphragm is porous. Any ideas where I get get a new one or would a different lift pump fit?
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