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  1. Hi all, We just (this weekend) bought a Hillman Minx Saloon 1941 to restore and brought it from UK to Belgium. We would like it to be in original RAF-colors again ! While stripping the black paint (it was rebuild in 1948 into a cab) we found lettering on back doors. Still have to strip another part, but now I’m trying to do some research about RAF vehicle markings. Hard to find !!! The markings on the front right wing, was already made visible by the previous owners ... I have paint chips of the original RAF blue grey that was underneath the other paint layers, so the color is no problem. Right front wing marking: base color of wing is black H’24 with RAF roundel Type A diagonally below On the left back door: H + 2 or 3 digits we guess The right front door panel has been repaired earlier, so no more markings on it. The left front door panel, there is no marking either ... Quenstions: - What's the meaning of the number 24 and letter H’ ? Must been sqn numbers but wich one ... - What means black wings ?? Red wings are "Bombs Disposal" ... but black :wow: - Any help about vehicle markings would be fantastic !! Thanks a lot, Tina
  2. I'm trying to figure out what red oxide primer to use on the Scammell. Years ago a friend of mine painted an old rusty trailer with red oxide and never top-coated it with anything, its still not rusting. I bought some 'red oxide' primer in a spray tin which turned out to be rubbish and have no rust inhibiting properties at all :argh: And the zinc 182 primer I have doesn't seem much better. My question is what primers have you guys used successfully and what should I look out for? I only wish to paint this thing the once! Thanks in advance!
  3. Hi Chaps I'm finally getting around to giving my 42 GPW a brithday, and want to repaint her as a Unitied States Army Air Force Jeep, but I have several questions. Fristly I want her to represent a vehicle used by the 384th Bomb Group based at Grafton Underwood, so what marking should i have on the bumpers ? also would the hood number have had 'U.S.A.A.F' above or the standard 'U.S.A.' ? would she have had the star on the hood ? Lastly, can anyone post any photos of jeeps in simular markings or indead any USAAF jeeps ? Thanks for your help Jules
  4. I wonder if anyone here can help, I have just bought a 1959 ex-AFS Matchless G3. It's history shows that it was part of Home Office contract for 48 machines from the Matchless factory and was first registered in August 1959. However, my particular machine was never actually issued to an AFS Unit and it remained 'in storage' until sold off at Ruddington in July 1969. My question is; Does anyone know where these motorcycles might have been delivered to from the factory, and where might mine have been whilst 'in storage' for those 10 years? Thanks, Dave.
  5. Hi guys I bought this charging set a few years ago but only just got round to starting it up. The problem is that it wont carry on running past a few seconds before it peters out (fuel not ignition) and for the life of me I cannot see how the engine draws the fuel up from the tank as there is no fuel pump & not pressurisation system like a Tilly lamp. I'm missing something here ?:confused: but what ?
  6. HMVF has spread across its various boards the history of our grandfathers during the wars. I thought it would be nice to have one place to list them all. A place where their history has been mentioned for the first time in public. Name them with pride.
  7. Hello, Can someone tell me how the capping on the very outsides of the tailboard is fitted? From behind most bedfords look like the capping has the full height of the tailboard which would mean that either the capping is behind the top angle iron at the inside of the truck or the capping is shorter at the inside to fit the angle iron properly to the tailboard? I don't know if it is correct at my truck. Thanks, Danny
  8. Khaki Green No3 BS.381C of 1930. I have a paint supplier local to me that I use a lot, however he is having difficulty mixing this colour. I know that I can get this from specialist paint suppliers at great cost in the product and postage but....... So has anyone got any ideas as to the formula or a modern equivalent that is near as dam it ?
  9. Can anyone tell me what these tyres may fit, they are new old stock no cracks etc and look pre war to me but are an odd size. Any ideas much appreciated.
  10. Reading Clive's comment on another post, has made me consider which is best for stopping rust on my MV? Under seal or Waxoil Your thoughts
  11. Hi all, i am searching photos of 105/14 howitzers during Falkland war. Thanks in advance Enzo
  12. I was wondering if anybody out there has some pictures of the dashboard of a late war Scammell SV/2S. A mate of mine is putting the finishing touches on his Scammell and the instruments look like a hotchpotch to me. The voltage regulator is definitely wrong, and there is some awful plastic conduit for the wiring. Any photos of how it should look would be very welcome. In addition, I would be very interested in seeing how the dashboard of my Fordson WOT2H should be. Mine is the one without the fuel gauge. Many Thanks, Stef
  13. How often do the above come up for sale? are there many left?, are RR B81 powerpacks easy to source? what's spares availability like? Lots of questions :-) im new :-) Cheers Sam.
  14. hoping some of you can offer some advice on this style of trailer - couldn't find any other images so lifted this one from another thread (apologies if these have been discussed before - have looked for old threads but not found any discussions) guess my initial question is - tow vehicle - would my RB75 (air over hydraulic brakes, GTW 11,000kg) be suitable - could the spare port on the quad-valve be used to provide a feed to operate trailer brakes or were they designed to be towed by something bigger with full air system? also interested to know - weight - how much do they tend to weigh unladen? (plated around 5-5.5t gross?) - brakes - are there inherent problems given their age, standing etc? (parts availability? etc.) - body - steel frame with aluminium panelling or am I likely to find a rotten hardwood frame? thanks in advance for any info, comments or pointers, paul
  15. I have a Penman Trailer direct form Witham but no "Duck Board" does any one have the size of timber and a setting out diagram to build a new one? Thanks in advance.
  16. Tracing post war census numbers is a new field for me so I wonder if any of you guys can help out. I have recently picked up a GPW with a frame plate on the drivers frame rail which lists the post war census number as 24-YH-46 my question is this where do I go to start tracking down the vehicles record card with a view to tracing its service history and hopefully by back reference its war time 'M' number. I remember this sort of information used to be kept at the now defunct Beverly museum, I used it on several occasions to obtain contract cards for WW11 vehicles but I’m not sure where to start with post war numbers, any help appreciated Thanks Pete
  17. Hi Everyone, I've been wanting an MV for years (ever since I got to sit in a Chieftain as an 8-year old ) and really like the look of the Humber 1-Ton pickups (love the swoopy/curvy 1950s styling), and I' finally in a position where I've got somewhere to put one and work on it, and lo and behold, there's one up for sale on Milweb (http://www.milweb.net/classifieds/large_image.php?ad=73546&cat=3) I've done a lot of researching on the web, and details seem to be a bit sketchy (or just hard to find -sorry if this has been posted on here before and I've just missed it!), but what I have been able to find out is that a lot of parts are unobtainable (not too bothered about body panels, got a few mates into Hotrods and a lot of time and effort can re-create those), so I've got a few questions I'm hoping the HMVF collective can help with: Are there any real problem parts to source from the drivetrain, and are there more easily sourced alternatives (I've seen FV1609's post that he's had to cannabalise a thoroughly knackered FV1601 for drivetrain parts for his other FV1600 variants)? Other than the dreaded tinworm, are there any other key areas of concern to look out for? Does anyone know the vehicle in the Milweb ad? I've not spoken to the guy selling it yet, as I didn't want to waste his time before I'd done a bit more research... I'm not after something to just hop in and drive, I like the idea of a longer term project, but don't really want a complete and utter basket case! Am I right in thinking that these weigh about 3.5 tons, and does anyone have any rough idea what it would cost to get it Transported from Kent up to Cumbria (where I live, South Lakes area just near Ulverston)?
  18. Hi everyone, Im slowly looking around trying to decide if i am up to owning a on old MV and the Humber pig is the one i have my eyes on. While trying to research parts i noticed a problem especially with the tyres, i know the mk2 need to be reinforced but are there replacement options around for the pig and what options do we have for either mk1/mk2? Im sure questions on parts have been asked many times but i have struggled to find them thats why i posted, so sorry if i am repeating someone elses posts. I have found a pig mk2 i believe which is meant to be a good runner but needs brakes looking at, are they an issue as well? I think it might be out of my budget so im not going to jump in until im happy - never easy tho! Thanks for listening, James
  19. So what would have been the original colour of my 1941 G3L and anyone know where I might source an original real light? Smudger
  20. would anyone be able to help me in locating a Hawker Battery for my FFR Landrover, unable to afford new, so looking to buy a decent second hand battery. They seem a little bit like gold dust, I think I have been looking in the wrong places Any help greatly appreciated Steve
  21. For some reason the speedo in my Lwt stopped working but it wasn't the speedo cable, as with a spare speedo installed everything worked as normal. Anyway I decided to take the old speedo out and take it apart. The first thing I noted was the inner surfaces of the casing were painted light blue and off white. But why was the inner surface painted like that as they are not seen when the speedo is put back together and installed in the Lwt. Is this original to the factory? Its made by Smiths and I'd like to restore things as near to factory fit as possible? On the rear of the casing under the makers name it says 'None O Jewels' - what the does that mean? When I took the speedo apart the glass was held in place in the inner rim by a substance resembling coal - whatever it was had crystallised, and I would appreciate knowing what's best to use that won't ooze out when the glass and outer rim are put back in place and spoil the look or turn to 'coal' in a year or two. Lastly to test to speedo I took a spare speedo cable part number 579435 and connected the gearbox end to a cordless drill. However despite using the correct speedo cable (i hope) I could not get it to engage in the back of the speedo itself and i wonder why in my speedo mechanism there is a recessed ridge all the way round the drive (just down from the yellow part in the attached photo) that doesn't have any way of connecting in to the speedo cable end. I guess the speedo cable needed to be pushed further in but I could not move it in any more so the cable did not engage. Why? Thanks
  22. My family has had an Onan 2Kw generator model OTC-17 for many years. Probably my grandfather got it after the war and we used it till the nineties. But now I'm thinking of bringing it back to it original form. I only haven't got the manuals and am also looking for more pictures. Who can help me?? My Onan generator An example how it was used in New Zealand Cheers, Arjan
  23. As you can tell I'm doing a few jobs in lockdown, waiting for the world to return to normal! Anyway I have a Lwt heater fan motor off a Smiths heater that needs a bit of TLC. The top cover, which encloses the motor brushes is caked in paint on the outside but the inside is fine. I want to put paint striper on outside only but will masking tape or gorilla tape actually keep out the Nitromors out? Incidentally is there anything else that might need attention? The brushes still contact the motor. The motor spins but it may be just me but I think it spins slower than the new one.
  24. Anyone have the retaining chain for the inter-vehicular connector (jumper cable) installed on their M10 ammo trailer? I need closeup shots in order to buy the correct type of chain as mine is missing. I also need to know how/where it attaches to the tongue, and details for the ring that goes around the cable. The pics in the manual aren't detailed enough. Here is the description: CHAIN, weldless, double loop, type 1, S., 0.105 in., 10 1/2 in. long. Thanks all, Tom
  25. A sad tale..... I started up my Gardner 6LXB and the engine began to race. I thought it was probably due to a sticky air operated accelerator cylinder, so I pressed the engine stop button and nothing happened. So I lifted the engine lid and pushed back on the engine stop lever on the injector pump and after about 10 or 15 seconds the engine slowly came to a halt. The next time I tried to start it, it just wouldn't start. It seemed as if the engine stop mechanism had stuck in the stop position. I am not familiar with the Gardner injector pump so all the rest I did by instinct. Taking off the pump covers reveals the stop lever which pulls on a thin connecting rod which I assume moves a rod through the length of the injector pump. At the other end of this rod is a spring plunger which I assume keeps the rod in the 'open' position until the engine stop lever moves it to the 'closed' position. However this rod appears to be jammed. There is a slight amount of push-pull movement (perhaps about 15 thou) but that is all. Does anyone have any ideas? I have just bought a 6LXB manual on ebay but it will not be here until next week. I would love to have it running again this weekend. Any suggestions would be gratefully received. I hope I do not have to go to a bus forum for my answer!!! Best wishes, Barry.
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