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Everything posted by tankdriver
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Problem mostly is age old...... Money..... When younger, you are trying to raise a family, buy a house, car, kids education, etc... You have to get all that out of the way before you can buy toys.... I'm 63, no gray hair........ No hair. Just bald.....:blush:
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question Whats involved with converting a vehicle from 6 volt to 12 volt?
tankdriver replied to LarryH57's question in I may be stupid, but......
One thing most people do wrong, they go to Autozone and pick up a new battery cable, which is for a 12vt system, and is usually a #2 wire. A 6 vt system needs a LOT larger wire to carry the extra amps needed for the lower voltage. For 6 vt you need at least a 1/0 or a 1/00 wire. This is from a IH tractor I have used for years on a old IH 240 I used to own. Still holds true, and for all 6vt systems.... "The most frequently asked question is "how to I convert my, tractor to a 12 volt electrical system?". My answer to this question is always "Why?". These tractors were designed to start perfectly well on 6 volts, and will today if you have proper cables and a good battery. The first thing to check is battery cables. The reason manufacturers went to 12 volts is not that it starts better, but that it will work fine with thinner cables which cost less. Many Hs through the years had their cables replaced with thin 12 volt cables. If you have these, you need to throw them away and replace them with big 0 gauge or better cables. Make sure that your ground cable (remember, the H has a positive ground system) goes directly to one of the starter mounting bolts and makes good connections on both ends. Then make sure that the cable from the battery to the starter switch and on to the starter is also good. If your starter switch gets hot when you press it, consider replacing it too. If you have good cables and a good battery, it'll start right up." -
I posted on the club's webpage, that the average Vet, is no longer WW2 but Nam, Iraq, or Afghanistan. And they want to see the equipment they used and fought against. WW2 is sadly becoming ancient history.
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Ordnance.com has started on my 3" ATG
tankdriver replied to tankdriver's topic in Artillery & Anti-Tank Weapons
Here it is when I 1st saw it. -
Ordnance.com has started on my 3" ATG
tankdriver replied to tankdriver's topic in Artillery & Anti-Tank Weapons
No the prime mover was a Halftrack, CCKW, or a M39. But the M39 did not arrive in Europe till April 1945. I would LOVE to find a M39 for sale somewhere(cheap). -
Ordnance.com has started on my 3" ATG
tankdriver replied to tankdriver's topic in Artillery & Anti-Tank Weapons
They are getting close to finishing it..... -
The M5A1 Stuart I owned was silver on the inside. It was a Canadian lend lease, that was sold to a country in South America (Brazil I think) then can back into the US where I purchased it.
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What have you found in the bowels of your MV?
tankdriver replied to BRDM Driver's topic in MV Chatter
While restoring a my M20, found about 5 German 8mm 1943 dated spent rounds behind the steering gearbox. -
WWII Armoured car on farm for sale. Can anyone ID it ??????
tankdriver replied to Mark Pearson's topic in MV Chatter
Great news. As a side note.... My Uncle's last job in WW2 was cranking up BRAND NEW Sherman tanks and running them off into the ocean. He asked his Captain why they were destroying them. His reply was "We can make more tanks, our job now is to make room to yet everybody home as quickly as possible." -
question Exhaust manifold to downpipe studs seized and corroded
tankdriver replied to Rover8FFR's topic in MV Chatter
Helicoils will pull out. That was why we quit using them. Here is a photo of tap insets, already has Loctite on it.. We realized that that we could make our own using bolts a lot cheaper, and do the same thing. A bolt can be any length you want, and I have never had ne pull out. -
question Exhaust manifold to downpipe studs seized and corroded
tankdriver replied to Rover8FFR's topic in MV Chatter
If need be, make your own inserts. Drill it out to the next larger size bolt. Tap it, screw in new bolt, cut it off flush, then drill and tap the new bolt you just screwed in, to the original size. I have made hundreds of them over the years. I used to repair air nailers 8 hours a day, and the were bad on striping out the bolts that held the nose on. -
Looks like the page is gone.......
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I work on LP forklifts for a living, and we tried synthetic oil in our rental fleet to try to cut down on wear and how often we changed the oil. We ran into problems with sludge build up, that did not happen with conventional oils. So be careful if you use synthetic oil. Make sure it is a low ash oil, high ash with NG or Propane is not good, over the long run you will end up with deposit buildups. I did some checking and found that the ash content of synthetic oils varies with the different products just like it does for regular motor oils. Basically it is the proprieties of the oil, loads of info out there on the net but just did a quick search found this one; »www.viragotech.com/fixit/AllAboutOil.html Here is the bottom line as per the above link A high ash content will tend to form more sludge and deposits in the engine. Low ash content also seems to promote long valve life. Look for oils with a low ash content.
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My 37mm is finished, and ready for pick up.....
tankdriver replied to tankdriver's topic in Artillery & Anti-Tank Weapons
Sure, Here it is when I 1st saw it a week before we loaded it up. Red circle around it. Here it is loading day..... Here it is with it's brother after we got it loaded on the trailer..... -
It's finished !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
tankdriver replied to tankdriver's topic in Artillery & Anti-Tank Weapons
Agree, I purchased the WC63 while my57mm was being restored. I had a couple junk halftracks, but knew I would not get them finished quick enough to have fun with the 57mm,. So I sold them, and go the WC which is the prime mover fo the 57mm. -
I loaded my Stuart forward, in a straight line. made it easy to just back off. The M20 hd to be backed on, as there was so much weight in the rear, the front end would just stay up in the air, and could not be steered. It was a REALLY weird feeling the 1st time I tried to load it. backing up works fine, just you need a couple of spotters.
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Here is the page from my WC62 / 63 operator manual.......
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Lt Horn from Poland sent me a photo of my Data Plates before he ships them. I got a full set from him as they are Zinc and are the closet to the original ones, that I could find. I know that the lettering is not totally correct, but looks pretty good. What ya think.....
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Does nobody else have a original serial plate but me?.... :?
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I purchased a set of Data Plates from Horn in Poland, and he will mark them for me, if I send him the info.... Now my Question...... Looking at my original serial # plate. Everything is filled in except the Date Delivery space. Is your WC63 Date of Delivery filled in or empty? If it is filled in is it July 1943 or July 43 or what? Thanks......Once Again.......