tankdriver

I came across this manual on eBay, Nobody even bid on it, and I missed biding on it while working on my WC63, and let time slip by. I asked him to relist it with a, "Buy It Now" and he did, and I purchased it. It is a original TM 9-810 dated in March 18, 1943. My WC63 was made in July 1943, so that is pretty close. This is the earliest one I have seen. Not really in bad shape considering the age. Mainly worn corners, and you can tell it was heavily used by looking at the spine. The really unusual thing, is the front cover, back cover, and spine have been painted Olive Drab with a brush. You can see the brush strokes in the photos. I have not seen one painted before. I guess it had been used in a combat zone.... Check it out.

The US 57mm has those on the right.... Do you have any idea what went on the left on the US 57mm?

Bring back to life a old post...... In the photo there is a item mounted on the left hand armor plate. All the US 57mm I have seen and the one I own has a set of holes on it. I assume since I have never seen a photo, or can find anyone who has ever seen anything mounted on a 57mm there, it is left over from copying the British 6lb. This is the 1st photo that shows "something" mounted there...... Anybody know what it is?

US collector... http://www.lovettartillery.com/

My WC63 is a Norway return, that came back in the early 90's. It went to a guy in Kanas, then to Missouri, then to me. I received the build card last week, and I am a lucky guy. Everything on the truck and on the card matches...... ORIGINAL PLATE.... ORIGINAL BODY TAG ENGINE SERIAL NUMBER WC63 Truck

I just pour about 5 gallons in my Dodge Ram. Never had a problem. 5 gallons on a 27 gallon tank is not much.

No, what I am saying, is if you(anybody) goes around eBay to dodge the fee's there is nothing eBay or PayPal can do to help out. They were not involved in the sale. If you go through eBay, the sale and collection of the funds is handled through eBay and PayPal. The system is set up to tell you, when you have been paid, then you ship. No matter where I sale I would never ship before being paid. There are scammers on EVER board buying and selling. Read any forum you want and you will see people complaining about them. So the more people you have on a board, the more scammers there are. Might be the same %, but more people mean more scammers. I was speaking in general terms. I did not say you were doing anything, or anybody on this board were doing anything, but after being on there for 18 years I have had a bunch of people wanting be to cancel sales and sale to them, over and over. Will not do it and never have.....

I have bought and sold on eBay since 1998. As a matter of fact, when I started selling on there, you could, and I did sell guns. I then sent them to the buyers FFL, so there was no loop-hole. I sold a WW2 sniper collection for over 44,000.00. I have also sold a Toyota 4X4 on there for 6,000.00. I was a power seller till they changed the rules to where a seller could not leave a negative, but the buyer could. Anyway, I have only had 1 or 2 problems in all that time I have been on there. And eBay and PayPal worked both out. IF you try to go around eBay and buy or sell with out fee's your on your on. This is usually what happens when there is trouble. Even if you hate them, you will get hundreds of people looking at you item. More than anywhere else. When you sign up, they will ask a lot of questions about who you are. But would you want to send money to someone they knew nothing about?

I am a Forklift Tech for a living. Last year we had a tech under a Tennant scrubber. He had pulled the drive tire off, when it fell off the jacks and fractured his skull. Which actually is what saved his live. With the bone broke, as his brain swelled, it had somewhere to go to relieve pressure. They said if the bone did not break, he would have died......

I am hoping I can find somebody who has a original can setting around. It included a bag of grit. The 2 holes up front is for testing. You put a new in 1 hole and the one you just cleaned in the second hole set the air which acts like compression, and compare the spark in the mirror..... Pretty neat.....

Check it out ....... As shown in the TM9-834... Only thing I can say is, Thank You, to my new best friend.. G503 member Frenchman....... Couple things missing, If anybody has them PLEASE let me know...... Can of abrasise 6 plug adapters 3 gap tools Battery clips Manual for it..... Thanks Again Frenchman.....

Thanks for the heads up........

Well, I got the floor pulled out all the way. and the frame cleaned up. Found out I have one bed support rusted out. Here's some photos..... I think this needs to be replaced..... Well onward and upward.......

Getting ready to put a new rear floor in, and to do that the tank needs to be dropped, but thing is I always keep it full. I purchased a fuel transfer pump, and since I had to unhook everything, I hooked the pump up to the fuel supply port, and pumped from there. Got about 20 gallons out of 30 done. When I have it out I'm taking it to a shop to have it boiled out and checked. Might as well while it is out. Also I have a NOS governor to installed, so I pulled the air filter, and carb off. While I have the carb off I'm going to rebuild it with a ethanol safe kit. I got everything off ready to start back the other direction.....

I am looking for the spark plug cleaner, CLEANER AND TESTER, SPARK PLUG-No. 40-C-1011 (Globe Union Co.), listed in 1944 manual TM 9-834, VEHICULAR GENERAL PURPOSE UNIT EQUIPMENT. If anybody has a lead please let me know....... Thanks

Very nice pieces. Congrads.....:-)

I should have checked before I ordered the full kit. But as it was really soft and spongey in a couple areas, it felt like it was going to break thorough when you walk on it. So I thought there was nothing under the chip board. I did not pull it apart to check it out as I wanted to use it for Vet's Day. I was SURE I was right........ I ordered the kit for it about the 1st of Nov, as John told me that it would take 10 days to get it made, and I wanted to get it here as soon as possible after the last event of the year. Well it least I know I'll have everything need to replace it...... Gordon brought up a good point on to pull the gas tank and clean it while I have everything apart. So' Ill probably do that.

My WC63 is still 6 volts and have no problems. On of the MAJOR things people do is, run down to a Auto parts house and buy a new battery cable with 6-volt systems is that the cables are often replaced with 12-volt cables. Since 6 volts is half of 12 volts the wires must be twice the size to carry sufficient current to get the job done. Also, the longer the cable, the lower its capacity. The old six volt systems require 1 gauge cables. When everything converted to 12 volts the cables were changed to 2 gauge. If someone installs modern cables in the old systems, they (the new 2 gauge type) cannot supply adequate current to the starter and it will spin slowly. Find the original type 1 gauge cables and it works fine, just as it did when it was new There were THOUSANDS of tractors, trucks, cars built in 6 volt that worked, and still work fine. The reason that the mfg went to 12 vt is not that it did not work, but as always.... MONEY. They could use smaller/cheaper wiring.

Well, I ordered a floor kit from John for my WC63, and he tells me it is in...... So I pulled out the Chip board some body had put in it, And low and behold....... there IS a floor in it.....:shocked: well kinda........:-) So now the work starts.....

Here's a link to a decal for it. http://www.kaiserwillys.com/product/2489/Decals_Stencils_Data_Plates_Decal

I hauled Boy Scouts in the snow for over 5 hrs, burned 25 gallons of gas with no problems...... And hauled kids and adults and burned 30 gallons of gas at "Remembering WW2 Linden TN" 2 weeks ago,,,,, Did not have any problems at all. I want it as original as possible. But thanks for the info. I do appreciate it.

AHHHH, winter is for a new total bed floor replacement..... :cool2:

Well got the last fuel line in from John. It came pre-bent and ready to install. So from the line before the fuel filter on the fire wall to the carb, is new and correct. Also new filter ass'y, NOS fuel pump(rebuilt with ethanol safe parts) and the carb rebuilt ethanol safe... First 2 photos are with John's heat shield off, last 2 photos has heat shield on it.

Well, this weekend, I got my firewall mount fuel filter mounted, new hoses run to it. New hose between metal line and fuel pump. Installed a New Old Stock Fuel pump, with a ethanol safe kit it. I also received my fuel pump heat shield from John, got it painted black, and installed. I have not figured out why Dodge would paint it black, but so be it. I ordered a new fuel line from the pump to the carb, but John is out of the pre-bent line, so I had to put the old one back on it..... And a lot more work left to be done......

Take your line at the carb off, and let it run into a container. If your getting gas, it's not the pump. I have had a carb where the float valve would stick. I could get out and tap the carb on the top, and it would start working again. If you are getting gas out the line, replace the float valve, or rebuild the carb, with ethanol safe parts.