tankdriver

That looks kinda like a M24, or else one that somebody just put in there. A M24 is really for a 1/2 ton. The M24a1/a2 is for the 51/52 62/63 trucks. M24a1

That is one reason I haul everything on trailers. Another reason, the tow vehicles get better fuel mileage than driving them, and no wear and tear on the drive train. Before you jump me about the fun of driving one, a lot of the events we do are about 150 miles each way also......

Man, talk about a rare vehicle........:shocked:

Thanks for the link..... I'll check them out........:thumbsup:

I'm in the US and have never seen this show. But the guy I quoted on general bad programing in the US. I was making a comment on where he could find a decent program that might be of interest, to him. Heck, I even watch "Wheeler Dealer" on there..... :cool2:

If you have it, check out the Velocity channel. There are some pretty good car restoration programs on there.

Ok, I just picked up a NOS fuel gauge for my WC63. The only gauge not original now is the temperature gauge. Does anybody have a nice gauge they are willing to part with?....

Naw, it is 195322. But thanks for trying......

Thanks. Since you pointed me in the right direction it is a M48A5 105mm Patton Tank barrel brush..... Anybody on the brass piece? Thanks

I have a cleaning brush and I'm not sure what the second piece is or what pieces they were on. Anybody know? Thanks AND

I really enjoy my 43 WC63. Biggest problems I have had is, it is fun and expensive to install a new bed floor, and it was fun and again expensive to install a new wire harness. Just replaced all the seals on the transfer case. not hard to do. That is it for this year, show season has started......

I checked with John, and he is using his repos, and is not sure of the correct holes spacing. SOMEBODY is bound to have a original mount, that can give me the correct measurements, or a couple of photos where I can drill mine correctly..... Come on guys..... help a fellow out.....

Ok I have the mount and it is mounted. I found repo corner braces at Midwest. They come with out any holes being drilled. I know 2 one the front and 2 on the sides, Can somebody who has some give me the spacing on the 4 holes on each brace, or photos where I can be close. Thanks

OK John Bizal (Midwest Military) has them in stock, and I have 2 on the way......

I need the 2 corner braces on the M24a1 WC mount. I've checked with Sarco and BMG. Neither one has any, and does not know of anybody who makes them. Any help would be appreciated.

Believe me DOT 5 is not the answer to everything, and not a answer at all sometimes. I am a tech trainer for Yale, and Toyota forklifts, and have been a forklift tech for them since 78. Yale came out with a new model lift right after DOT 5 came out. They mounted the brake assy on the top of vertically mounted dual drive motors horizontally. These were used in and out of coolers, in and out of the cold. Kind of like a truck kept in a unheated garage. The brake assy started going bad in less than a year, and ALL of them in the same way. We opened them up and found a ring of pitting around the cylinder housing. What we found out is that condensation was collecting in the brake cylinders, and since DOT 5 does not absorb the water, it was floating on the top of the brake fluid, making a ring of rust and pitting. Their answer was to make the cylinders out of Stainless steel. We replaced about 50 cylinders (2 per truck) just in the Memphis TN area. And I know that some people will never have any problems, I'm just letting you know about a large scale problem that happened, and cost a major company a TON of money.

What gear oil do you use in your WC63 transfer case? I drained mine and installed new seals on the shafts, and it is time to fill it back up. Thanks guys.

SOOOOO true.......:undecided:

Thanks for the input. A local car parts place has a tube of Speedometer Cable Lub, that is graphite and alcohol. Once it runs down inside, the outer cable, the alcohol evaporates, leaving just the dry graphite. Nothing to attack dirt, or get stiff, or thick. I think I'll give that a shot.

My Speedometer has not worked since I got the WC63. I pulled the old cable off, and if I hand turn the drive on the meter the hand moves like it should. Luckily, it is only cable. The one that was on it has the inner cable broken about 2ft in. I'm installing a full(inner, and outer) NOS set in. I do not want it to break again, and was wondering what you guys use to lube the inner cable. I have always used STP run down the outer cable, but was wondering if there was anything any better. Thanks

I'm too old and do not have a steady enough hand to use a brush. So I went with sloppy way.....:-) Here is how large the point is.....

It is very large, it over fills the letters, and covers parts of the knob. that is why I go through how to clean it up. But also only takes about 5 minutes a knob to do, not counting the cleaning, and drying well overnight. If you look close, you can see some of the white around the edge, where I still need to clean it a little better.

Thanks. To buy repo would have cost 30 bucks up, plus 10 bucks shipping. The knobs were good just looked tired, and I'm a poor boy.....:undecided:

Well, we all have problems with our switch knobs losing the white lettering over time, and we buy new ones. Either repo metal or plastic. But I wanted to use my original real ones. So here is what I did..... I cleaned the knobs really well. Let them dry overnight. I used a white paint stick, liquid, not one that has a paste. I let it dry just a couple of minutes, then lightly wiped it off. Which smeared the whole knob with a light coat of white, and looks really bad. I did not let it set, but I lightly sprayed some Brake cleaner on a rag, and start wiping around the parts of the knob but rub real lightly on the part with the lettering. It turns out pretty well. I wish I had taken before photos, but I really did not think it would work as well as it did.

BUT...... How do you get to take it to shows???