munga1

hi all still welding the body tub, but deff winning the fight. new brake pipes. brakes refurbished. most of the chassis rubbed down and painted. so slowly very very slowly getting things done. anyway does anyone know how many munga's are in the uk? i know there is someway to find out from the DVLA but no idea how to go about it regards alex

Hi all How do i adjust the handbrake shoes. i dont see a hole or anything to adjust the shoes? thanks alex

hi anyone got a spare throttle pedal and linkage, mine has vanished with rust..... floor removed not that hard it was rust holding it together. tomorrow i will try to fabricate a new one, that should be fun alex

hi does anyone know what this control is for, and where can i get one thanks alex

hi thanks for the help. but i think that colour looks to dark, but of course it could be my screen alex

hi again i forgot to ask,,are the brake pipes a 1/4 inch, i did measure them but want to be sure thanks alex

steering parts ordered from E BAY.DE the paint colour ,, i cant read the data plates on the body. they are white with oxidization but the green paint is very dark,, if that helps anyone tell me the colour thanks alex

Body off today. i had to brace the body to stop it falling to bits, but the chassis is in great condition, alas the steering box has had it . a lot of play in the shaft. now i need to trawl the net for a steering rack

hi anyone know the colour a munga should be,, is it drab olive? thanks alex

Ready to lift the body off, but what is the cable that goes from the dash board into the gearbox, i will take some pics as i remove the body alex

Thats the old vw polo engine out, But there seems a lot of play on the gearbox spline shaft, but it was time to stop so i will leave it until sunday before i worry about it alex

Hi I had my first good look under the munga today, and was very suprised to see how good the chassis looks, its covered in flakey paint that comes of easy, so far only one hole on the rear crossmember and that looks as if it should be east to repair, it was cold today so only a quick look but i did poke around with a sharp screwdriver and it sounded good oh well back to work tomorrow not long till saturday.

The flywheel ring is what's called interference fit. I used to cut the old ring with a cold chisel, heat the new one in the house oven as warm is I could get it and the flywheel in the freezer, I did clean it first and wait until the house was empty, then very quickly tap the ring over the flywheel, easy peasy. I did once turn a toothed ring but I used a roofing blow torch and a bit of luck I got the ring off, but not easy, oh and we now have a new freezer

First time lifting the munga and it never halfed in two as was suggested by a friend. i only lifted it a few inches to check every thing strong for lifting

i just missed a flywheel on ebay-de 30 euro delivery to scotland , i thought that was quite cheap when you think of how heavy it is. my flywheel has some gouges on the teeth, if i could get a starter ring i would just replace the ring alex

hi i will connect the coils up to 24v and see if i get a voltage drop with the resistors down to 12volts. i should have done this already. hopefully i can get something done to the old machine this weekend. thanks again alex

Hi Does anyone know how to tell if the coils on the munga engine are 24volt or 12 volt, the coils are linked to some large resistors and have this number stamped on them (28-6617-3300-00). thanks again alex

Hi thanks for the starter info I will do a search for a replacement, I will check out the club you gave the link for and see if I can find out more about my munga. I have some info about the one I have but only since it has been in the uk. when I got the munga I also got two boxes of spares, mostly engine parts including the big dynamo and its regulator, so far i have not checked it out very much as i am considering taking the body off, but not quite sure yet how much work it would be. regards alex

hi Paul thanks for the info about the metal, I tried to measure it but the rust and rain beat me I guessed it was around what you say 1.5mm I could bend, cut metal with little problem but as you say it may be cost affective to buy the parts, I will decide on a list and e mail kemper. the car has a golf 1.1 cc engine installed, but I have the original engine as well, Well all the engine except the starter motor, I have been checking the starter details on line and if I get one at a good price, I discovered it has 8 teeth on the starter cog and was made by bosch, was then used on many German vehicles, I have miss placed the bosch part number just now, I will endeavor to get the right engine back into the car if I can get it running first. I am going to try to up load some munga scary pics, I expect the restoration to take a few years to finish, mostly to spread the cost out a bit. regards Alex

hi I am on my first day of trying to restore a very rotten munga an f91/4 all i have done today is measure up for new metal required and generally check it out. a couple of questions I have . what gauge of metal for the floor and where can I get a starter motor for the two stroke engine or is there an equivalent car one I could use. I will post some pictures soon once the weather stops raining regards alex

hi every one. thanks for letting me join the HMV Forum, I now own a auto union munga, that is in a sad state so it will be a long time before its on the road, past vechicles i owned were an austin champ and a few landrovers, in the meantime i look forward to keeping upto date in the forums thxs alex