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Andrew Rowe

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Posts posted by Andrew Rowe

  1. Hi Lance, I think you have just answered your own question! The glue will not stand up to the riggers of the wheel action and the track.....but you can always spend the money on the glue and proves us all wrong, Cheers Andrew.

  2. X- mod surplus had the short pipe from the gearbox to bulkhead at one stage. I made my stick from two engine ones and cutting and joining, works fine, can get the measurements if you need them. You can always check your stick is at the right level  by putting in the exact quantity of oil for the gearbox from the manual, as a double check, to the marks on the end of the stick ,cheers Andrew.

  3. We have a Scorp CVRT in the fleet that has an oil leak originating from the gearbox?. The thing is the disc on the box seems

    clean of oil on the gearbox side but wet on the outer side, would this be correct for an oil leak to show up from, maybe a worn outer gearbox

    seal?, or is this oil being picked up from the bottom and flung onto this face? The oil level is going down in the gearbox and NOT the final drive.

    I would be interested in any ideas out there as to the source of the leak. We have cleaned the area effected, but have yet to do a more extensive

    road test to properly identify the source of the leak. Cheers Andrew.

  4. Hi Phil, you will be using the "donut" type coupling for the engine to gearbox?. I think you need to change the input flange of the gearbox for the "3 -pronged" one, as the one that you have on is for the earlier driveshaft variant, it should only be a split pin and nut to undo and maybe a puller to remove and change out for the correct one....ready by Easter!

    Cheers Andrew.

  5. Peter, undo the lock wire on the bolts and that part of the UJ falls away, and then there should be a bolt in the centre of the output shaft to undo and then this half should pull away. The lug that has been cut down on the gearbox top is probably so the sheet metal gearbox cover can clear as the sides of this taper to the width of the gearbox when in place.

    The Ford boxes can have many different configurations, with regards to what side a handbrake is mounted, whether it has one at all, whether it is British manufacture or American , with regards to any lugs protruding,  Cheers Andrew.

  6. Just out of interest if have not figured it out yet , the bearing numbers are: LJ 30 WRR = 30 x 62 x 23.8, could be about GBP15? and the other one is : 207 KTT = 35 x 72 x25 , hope that helps , Cheers Andrew.

  7. Is there such a thing as an original Dingo Mud flap, of a certain design? I have one that has a moulded bead both sides on 3 x edges

    and is about 10" wide x 8" high, and maybe about 3/8" thick .  Open to ideas on this one ?, Thanks Andrew. 

  8. Thanks Tim, interesting you have an Aussie one. Attached is a couple of pictures of the rod I now have that has been patterned off an original I believe. It has a couple of bends in different planes, do you concur with the pictures. I think there may have been a couple of different models, maybe one with a forged fixed clevis on the end? I still have to match up the hooked end into the Carb. , as I have not studied this area yet. Cheers Andrew.

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  9. When running, the Lamp WILL glow at half brilliance, it states that in the electrical manual.  Extremely important that your batteries are very good condition, and BOTH of them. You can isolate the turret side by turning that master switch off, in the turret and so that will have no bearing on the operation of the running and generating system. I spent two days trying to find a fault that did not exist, all because one battery was crook! Cheers Andrew.

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  10. It was a couple of years ago , but I do not think it was that hard. The sender unit goes in the head and the wire goes to your gauge electrically. Plenty of power terminals in the junction block up the front if you have to put power in the gauge. I think the tacho just came off the dizzy ,  Cheers Andrew.

  11. Yes , I setup a temp and an Rpm tacho , out in front on the Left hand corner. This was the biggest course of engine failures over here when the Army used them was due to over revving and blowing conrods out the side of the blocks. I must have at least a dozen blocks that this has happened to. When you drive with your head out the top , you cannot very easily see the instrumentation. Surely also a great design was  where they situated the starter button as well! Cheers Andrew.

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