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Andrew Rowe

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Posts posted by Andrew Rowe

  1. I would have thought the 3 lights are green for neutral , yellow for over revving, and red for fire indicator. Some of the earlier CVRT engines had a plastic tube around the engine which was pressurised with air and when the engine caught on fire, the tube would melt and the red light would come on telling you that,  you had an engine fire! If the air pressure is low the light will come on , with no fire. Later models did away with the air pressure idea, I guess that is what maybe happening ? Cheers.

  2. I have a 1942  Loyd Carrier , Starter Charger project that is available from the Tank Factory. Controls are fitted to the chassis and the body is nearly ready to fit. Comes with body kit. Suspension and other components stripped , and ready for blasting / painting . PM me for details / options and photos , Thanks Andrew.

  3. The present paint job in that Camo scheme looks more Australian than NZ army. Ours were only ever painted in green all over, as far as I am aware, other than the NATO ones that got sent to Bosnia, and painted white. In the 80's deep bronze green was the colour, and flat. I had never heard of our ones coming from Australia in the 80's, I would have thought that ours' came direct from the UK. In recent years there have been quite a few imported from Aussie by civy's into NZ and I am wondering if there is a confusion in your thinking as to the origin of your landrover?  , just my view. I could probably find the origin of our contract for Landrovers to the NZ army ,cheers Andrew. 

  4. I had thought you had some good experience Hummermark with Detroits .I have run N55 on the 2 -valve head with elongated port holes with 17:1 compression ratio

    making sure the return fuel line outlet elbow runs an .80thou hole, and is easy start and runs very clean around the 190- 200 HP, estimated, cheers Andrew.

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  5. Are you trying to just put N80's straight into an old "Low Block " 2-valve head 671 to upgrade horsepower?. I would think you will need to be running a 4- valve head, which is "high Block" with N80's and you would have to make sure you have the correct  injector rack, as from the HV- series injectors, they have a different offset than N80's , and then there is consideration about the type of liner you are using, with the different configuration on air-vent holes, as to get the right air-fuel mixture, as you are dumping more fuel into the cylinders, and also what compression ratio are you using, is this matched to the N80. In other words are you doing a complete strip and rebuild?, To give you a rough idea, a 2-valve head has exposed fuel line ( 2 ) and the 4-valve head are cast within the side of the head, so not externally seen ,Cheers Andrew.

  6. Hi Lance, I think you have just answered your own question! The glue will not stand up to the riggers of the wheel action and the track.....but you can always spend the money on the glue and proves us all wrong, Cheers Andrew.

  7. X- mod surplus had the short pipe from the gearbox to bulkhead at one stage. I made my stick from two engine ones and cutting and joining, works fine, can get the measurements if you need them. You can always check your stick is at the right level  by putting in the exact quantity of oil for the gearbox from the manual, as a double check, to the marks on the end of the stick ,cheers Andrew.

  8. We have a Scorp CVRT in the fleet that has an oil leak originating from the gearbox?. The thing is the disc on the box seems

    clean of oil on the gearbox side but wet on the outer side, would this be correct for an oil leak to show up from, maybe a worn outer gearbox

    seal?, or is this oil being picked up from the bottom and flung onto this face? The oil level is going down in the gearbox and NOT the final drive.

    I would be interested in any ideas out there as to the source of the leak. We have cleaned the area effected, but have yet to do a more extensive

    road test to properly identify the source of the leak. Cheers Andrew.

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