Lauren Child

If you drive it like that you're liable to get pulled over by the constabulary!

10HD, 30HD, and 50HD are based on the SAE grade's 10, 30, and 50 respectively which shouldn't have changed. The HD relates to a detergent additive which might have changed however. The safe option is probably to go with straight oil. If you're not sure what was in there beforehand, keep in mind that there were concerns in the move to HD oils as to the amount of crud that would be churned up and block oil lines and filters. If it's run on straight oil for a while you may have to observe similar precautions if moving to a detergent oil.

I heard yesterday that we've got a good number of vehicles booked in, including some rare ones for the anniversary of WW1. It's on the 15th June at IWM Duxford (near Cambridge on the M11). Deadline for exhibitors registration (free entry) is the 9th May, after which you would need to pay on the day. Don't leave it too late! As ever we'll have the vehicle cavalcade around the airfield and a tracked vehicle demonstration at the end of the day. More information is here - http://www.iwm.org.uk/events/iwm-duxford/military-vehicle-show-0. Entry Form : 2014 Military Vehicle Show Exhibitor Entry Form.pdf Camping Form : 2014 Military Vehicle Show Exhibitor Camping Booking Form.pdf

Blimey, that's a good start. Tank by your twenties then?

Has to be said, fresh oil made a big difference to how she felt and revved when I got mine. A quick service may make it feel a bit more oomphy if you've not done one, even if it doesn't change the top speed. For reference a SUMB feels much snappier and faster even though it's the same engine.

Thats about right. Remember the gear ratio of an artillery tractor is set for torque, so its not going to be a speed demon. You can reach 40 to 45 downhill, but about 30 climbing slowly to 35-40 (takes a while) if you are flat out. Its also worth noting that these rev faster for a change up than you may be used to. Try putting your foot down for a bit longer before changing up. It took me a bit to get used to.

Is that the Bicester tornado?

Ah so it was a bigger problem then. According to wikipedia one of the Sherman engines was diesel as well. Thanks

I think the estimates on the littlefield auction are overpriced, but then theres a good market for them over there. The question is whether that market will be flooded with such a large auction, but the star items are bound to go for big money.

I take it back. General principles of M.T. from the Royal Artillery Mechanical Traction School for March 1945 lists several different fuels that are dyed different colours. M.T. 72 coloured orange or yellow (used in the UK only) M.T. 80 coloured red Petroleum spirit undyed (forbidden to be used in vehicles) Derv for C.I. engines That would probably tie up with red marking of the fuel caps.

They certainly were post war, but I'm not sure whether there were the same problems with different fuels wartime. I'm sure someone on here will know but the only common wartime diesel vehicle I can think of is the Matilda 2. I'd have thought it would be more likely to be stencilled if they needed to distinguish, especially with different octanes in use and leaded fuel for the big engines.

I think white nuts was just a parade/ceremonial thing. The red on the nuts would probably have been indicative (maybe just a dab on the end). I can't imagine they would have painted the fuel caps a different colour without a good reason.

I'm looking for a tyre pump if you have one (for a Ford, not sure if they are the same). Also a WD pattern tax disc holder.

The last photo looks like a Ford

Could it be a Morris CS11?

On the subject of WOT's this may help you tell the difference. Sods law the WOT 1's and 3's look to have the same cab types, so I guess the real difference is size. WOT2's have a more angular bonnet top and canvas roofed cab. They are Ford vehicles, built in the Fordson plant, hence the confusion (as I understand it).

First make sure you know what you are buying - C60 and FAT are two different types of truck (although they share a lot of components). The FAT is a shorter wheelbase and is probably more desirable. Check the data plate if it still has one. Generally you are probably looking between £5-10k with 8 being around average, depending on condition. That said wartime kit is always on the increase so I may be a bit light. Ultimately it's what you will pay for it, if you really like pay a bit more.

Ouch. Would they be covered on insurance?

Welcome along, and nice ambulance!

The only time I get concerned is when original parts are used to add "bling" to replica's. Mind you I feel even worse about original parts being used to add creative "bling" to original vehicles. There are some notable exceptions mind you - some vehicles need to be re-created to the best of our abilities due to their historical significance.

This might help with some background info - http://www.militarymodelling.com/news/article/olive-drab/4536/

Just to confirm it's on the volunteers event listing, so yes Hope to see you there!

That sounds like quite a trip! I hope you'll keep us posted.

Welcome along!

Be careful with unusual connectors. If they are fibre optic they may be carrying laser light that would damage your eyesight (and it may not be visible light). As the old warning goes, "Do not look into laser with remaining good eye".