Lauren Child

Awesome!

One end looks right - See photos here - http://www.dieselpunks.org/profiles/blogs/the-explosive-eel

Are the ends rotated slightly compared to the next set of holes (which look straight)? That makes me think of vehicles where the towing points are angled. Could it be for Conger, and the two sets of holes adapt for two types of carrier used as the base?

looking at the camo impact of sweat and rolling sleeves up?

I think that was a Commonwealth vehicle, not used by US forces. You may have asked in the wrong section.

What's the problem?

Blimey, glad you are OK. There's some F15 hubs on Ebay at the moment - it may be worth dropping the seller a message and seeing what else he has. It may tide you over even if they're not quite right. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=161331050850

You and me both - the 3D effect on some of them is quite incredible.

Assuming its the same as described in the Sherman 3 training pamphlet (M4A2) there are two types that are pretty similar for adjustment except for location of the adjuster, and the amount that you can rotate the adjustment nut. The first type has a circular access at the top of the panel. The second type has a an angled circular access under what looks like a fitting poking out. It states you should not use that fitting for adjustment, so don't get mixed up. The first type has a deep notch on the nut's forward surface that fits a trunnion pin to make it self locking. This can only be adjusted in half turns. Where this is fitted, always remove the yoke pins from the top of the vertical control rods immediately in front of the steering levers before adjusting. The second type has a long hex nut with fluted sides locked by a spring clip. This can be adjusted in 1/6th turns indicated by clicks. To adjust either type, remove the circular cover or large nut (2 1/4 inches) located on each side of the diff casing in front of the driver and hull gunners seats. Fit the brake adjusting tool (1.1/8th socket) to the adjusting nut, being careful not to drop it into the casing. rotate the nut in half or sixth turns until the free travel on the steering lever is 5 inches. It does say if this doesn't work a deeper adjustment would be necessary, but I don't have any info on that procedure. Hope this helps.

Aren't the tracked rapier and M548cargo/resupply based on the M113?

Good grief. Was it amphibious?

Any ideas on colours for ww1 motorbikes?

Thanks chaps. I think I might try using some pipe insulation down the centre spar to give the canvas a shallow peak. If that doesn't work the wooden battens / bamboo sound like a good idea. Any ideas on the webbing? I've seen what the elements do to webbing over time.

Has anyone asked the museum / museum staff what they think? I loved the location, but at the same time the museum were under some constraints that they might welcome being lifted (particularly if they risk losing some important exhibits in the current location).

Thanks Lee, interesting link. So it sounds like if you are carrying your own stuff (not to sell) or not running for money then you're fine without. That sounds pretty good for hobbyists.

Depending on how you are setting up you may want to consider contractors insurance. If you are solely going to be working on vehicles that are owned by others, then the vehicle should be insured by them. Then you'd just need the normal, public, private and professional indemnity to cover your works on their vehicles. That's my understanding anyway - get some proper advice but it might save you some pennies and headache.

Having just put a new canvas on Dolly I was wondering what my best bet was to look after it? Water tends to pool on to of the truck, and I don't want it to get damaged. Also what's good to look after the webbing straps? Should I be using Blanco or wax?

If I remember right, Peter Hommes was selling a CMP V8 a while back - it may be worth asking whether he's still got it. It's probably more expensive than an SUMB one, but it might be an option if you want to keep it the same.

Any ideas where they are moving to?

Just a follow up : you can definitely take the top off, so I was mistaken. It's more tricky than it looks though due to linkages to the leuvres.

That may be a bit of a way to go, I'll give them a miss thanks.

where are they?

The bottom ones look like some parts I uncovered at Duxford last week. Chieftain parts - clutch housing ?

nice truck! You've picked a great one (and a challenge) for your first vehicle. Nice to see the British vehicles being preserved.

Don't think too long, as if the form isn't in soon you'll miss the free entry!