Lauren Child

Welcome along! There's one or two Churchill nuts on the forum, so I'm sure you'll fit right in. Important question, Mk VII (round hatches) or original (square hatches)? We have to gauge your taste

So which vehicles are you looking for dimensions on?

Kismet pumps are shown in the WOT manuals, but I'd imagine they were used with a wide range of vehicles.

I think you are right - look at the photo's here http://www.overvalwagen.com/vickerstanks.html

Have we got a complete list of the vehicles that have been identified? If so we should have dimensions for most in the wartime databooks and drivers manuals.

A10 had 14mm armour didn't it?

rose tinted welding goggles are on backorder.

Blimey, 7 1/2 hours! Glad your home. I'd have thought the surgeons need 4 weeks off as well now!

There are several ferrets at Duxford. I'm not sure of what makes a 2/3 different though, so no idea if either of the 2s is the right model. There's a sectioned mk2 in the Land Warfare Hall entrance, a mk2 and a mk4 in the main display, and a mk1 in the arena that's owned by one of the volunteers. http://s374444733.websitehome.co.uk/landwar/lsp-01.htm http://s374444733.websitehome.co.uk/landwar/lcw-20.htm

lol! If the paint's that thick, you can always use filler

From my experience you are much better with an orbital sander for that job, finishing off feeling by hand for any ridges. Be aware that the job escalates quickly though, as any loose paint will flake off. You will likely end up with a moonscape of craters in the paint to smooth out. The rotary disc is more likely to chip the paint across on ridges, and you don't have the same control over where you are sanding that you do with the orbital sander's corners.

You need AF / SAE spanners, not Imperial (which is Whitworth).

The higher the voltage, the more energy can be transferred for the amount of current (voltage is like pressure, current is like flow rate). People use higher voltages so the current drops and they can use thinner, cheaper cable, and because the lower current flow causes less energy to be lost as heat (hence electricity pylons running at very high voltages - they need to transfer a lot of energy without overheating or being wasteful). For the vehicles, theres no need to change unless theres something wrong and you cant fix it. Its difficult to find 6volt kit for replacements, and with lower current, 12 volts and 24 volts are more resilient to bad connections / faulty components restricting the flow. Give us some idea of the problem and we'll try and help you fix it instead of converting if you like.

IRR paint does come off reasonably easily, but remember its got some chemicals in it that can be very bad for you. Either way you should wear PPE. Back to the original point, i wouldn't remove the guard. If you need to sand more effectively, get the right tool for the job and pick up a sander.

Does that mean it's "Bladder, bladder emptying, for the filling of"?

That'll be Gynaeolator in the land warfare hall, not the gate guardian

A very nice A34 Comet There can't be many running, so it should be quite easy to find out who's it is.

I shall be along too. Is there anything you particularly need as I'll check my stash?

Happy new year, and I hope you get back on your feet and start tightening with those nuts again soon.

Blimey, how did Santa fit that on his sleigh? And a Chieftain to boot. No wonder Rudolf's nose was red.

Happy new year!

Wow, you learn something new every day. Thanks Alex.

Keep in mind that they may well need an export licence.

It's not to say it couldn't have used more support mind you, just that by nature it was a collaboration. We're all dependant upon charitable funding etc. and there's never enough to go around. It would have been nice to see what we could do with more resources, advertising, etc.

I don't think that's fair to say, the show was a collaboration, and had a good deal of support from both museum staff and the volunteers.