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smiffy

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Posts posted by smiffy

  1. Nice repair I tend to keep away from spring powered clocks and concentrate on weight powered clocks so striped teeth are not so much of a issue. i also have a large collection of early electrical master clocks and gents venturi  water pressure and flow recorders from pumping stations There are just  not enough hours in the day  Mike

  2. 6 hours ago, Citroman said:

    You can start in the clock making business. 😉

    I do make clocks .but not for sale . When the lorry work shop gets cold I retreat to the machine shop and make clocks 

    First picture is a small turret clock with a grasshopper escapement to Wildings design photo 2 is a part built tavern clock and the other pictures show pinion cutting 

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    • Like 5
  3. 33 minutes ago, Old Bill said:

    Thanks Mike. I will try that on my next big soldering project.

    I am enjoying the gauge and looking forward to further episodes!

    Steve   🙂

    The flux I use is acid free and appears to work well .This is the first time that I have used it  https://www.screwfix.com/p/la-co-regular-lead-free-flux-60g/797FH?kpid=797FH&ds_kid=92700055281954514&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=CjwKCAjwpKyYBhB7EiwAU2Hn2aVxgW15hCsrqbBx2FRcqPHW26QaXMG8ZYx-obVUykRJqdqia9U9ahoCFzwQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds#product_additional_details_container

  4. The fuel gauge needs some attention .The float is connected to a contrate wheel that turns a small gear that rotates a small magnet this turns the needle .

    The rest of the gauge is aluminium . The mall gear had a tooth broken and the holding bracket was cracked 

    I have a Leinen   L3N lathe which is set up for small gear cutting  using direct indexing  and a spindle mounted on a vertical slide 

    I selected a gear cutter that looked about right . turned a brass blank and mounted in the chuck .

    The gear has 12 teeth so I set the indexer to the row  with 72 holes and index to every 6th hole

    I set the depth by bluing the brass blank and the feeding the cutter in until there is a blue line left that about 5 thou thick on the od of the plank . This can be done by moving between 2 teeth and lower the cutter by a few thou each time. 

    When the depth is correct the remaining teeth are cut in a single pass I used a .6 module 8 tooth gear cutter as it was the nearest match to the existing gear 

    I now have to make a new frame to replace the broken one and a new needle as the original is missing

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    • Like 4
  5. Hi Steve I have wiped off as much of the flux as possible as the work has proceeded but where ever it has touched  the steel it has left a rusty stain.

    The flux claims to be water soluble . The citric acid should remove the rust staining and hopefully  any remaining flux , if there is still a problem I will wash with baking soda to neutralise any remaining flux  This is all a bit trial and error as I have never made a tank before. Mike

  6. I have just finished the fuel tank The .3 internal baffles are riveted in place with the rivets soldered to seal them and I welded the end plates in  . There are 2 pick up pipes one for the main supply and the other for the reserve. on the original tank these were identified by a bit of solder by each pipe marked M and R  so I copied this onto the new tank. I have not tested it yet but no doubt there will be some leaks . To clean of the flux I will put the tank in a tub filled with a water and citric acid solution . 

    I am not sure whether to treat the inside with one of the sealers or not 

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    • Like 6
  7. 22 hours ago, Old Bill said:

    Coming on nicely! How did you go about folding the longitudinal seam? I have always struggled with that, usually tapping the edge over against a block. I can get away with it on something small but something this big is a real challenge. There must be a trick to it!

    Steve    😁

    I folded a 12mm strip on each end of the steel before I formed it to shape .1 end is reversed to the other . The difficult part is to fold the steel so that, 1 the corners are in the correct place and, 2 that the ends are parallel. I spent some time setting up each bend and it came out OK . Next I hooked the 2 end together and placed it over the railway track and using a flatter closed the joint , To get the joint finished it would be best to use a piece of metal with a grove in it the same width and depth as the finished seam . I do not have one and did not want to spend the time making one so used a large cross pein hammer to form the return and leave a straight edge inside the tank   Alternatively a wide chisel  with the cutting edge radiused would do the same job  or a brick bolster would also work .

    As for the ribs I have not idea how long the original tank was as most of it has long gone . As my rollers are 37 inches long that is the length of the tank .It could not be much bigger as that fills the space on the chassis

    I am more of a heavy engineer than a tin worker so some of my methods are a bit home brewed but they work

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    • Like 3
  8. Started work on the new tank by cutting up a 8 foot by 4 foot by  1.2mm sheet of mild steel sheet which was just large enough to get the main tank 3 baffle plates and 2 end plates out of . I marked out the overall size of the tank and allowed enough to do a fold at each end to make the longitudinal seam. Then I marked out the position of the four corners and used my plate rollers to form the corners by clamping it between the rollers to form the radius.

    The whole operation worked a treat and i ended up with correctly shaped tube . Next I closed the long seam over a piece of railway track to close the seam and soldered it

    Formed the ribs around the tank using a friends bead rollers and cut the hole for filler neck and drain plug'

    Next job will be to rivet and solder the filler drain plug and fuel gauge and make and fit the baffles and ends 

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    • Like 7
  9. One task that  I have not even started yet is the fuel tank ,I have brought a sheet of 1.2mm steel and will start a new tank this week, Fortunately I have the old tank as a pattern and have the original filler fuel gauge and large drain plug. 

    Other jobs have been fitting up the bonnet sides and front mudguards and starting to paint the body work

    Little jobs include making period hose clamps and starting work on the dash panel .

     

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    • Like 3
  10. I had to cut out the 8 bots holding the split rims together so this weeks work has been to make 8 new nuts and bolts .

    I started with enough material to make each one into two bolts as the head stock on my lathe is too small to let the material pass through and this is the best way that I could think of to make them using the minimum of material.

    After threading in the lathe at each end  I milled a hexagon in the middle and parted them off

    The nuts I made individually Whole job took about a day and used 4 foot of 35mm En8 bar

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    • Like 7
  11. Started to get the body panels and wings fitted up . I want to have a trial fit up as the wing bonnet were made about 25 years ago by friend who used to help me before I moved 200 miles away  to a new area 

    The panel all need a small amount of fettling and adjustment  as over the years they have suffered from being moved around . We never had any patterns to start with so the wings and bonnet are our interruption of what they might have  been like.

    All the parts have acquired  some rust in storage and my answer is to mix up a bucket of water with citric acid and leave any rusty bits to soak overnight . This leaves a bright surface that when dry is ready for painting

    Photo 1 shows wheel nuts that i made some years ago that had been left unpainted and became quite rusty .After 24 hours in citric acid they nice and clean. I buy 10kg bags and use about 1 handfull in 2 gallons of water 

    All the panel etc now need painting and retaining clips etc need to be made so along way still to go ,there is still a long way to go 

    I have a reasonable set of tyres so need to sort rear rims and remove some very old and rotten tyres .I could have cut the old tyres of the rims but the tubes where still holding air and  I will use them again ,also I wanted to save the flaps . 

    The tyres are rusted to the rims having laid around for years . The tubes will only be used as a temporary measure 

    Photo hows removing tyres using a short piece of angle iron  and a hammer

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    • Like 3
  12. Its has been a long time since I have posted any thing as have been far too busy working on other projects . One thing that was holding me up was the radiator as one of the side panels needed replacing .

    I used the good side as a pattern but could not get a satisfactory casting using my home foundry as it really needed pouring from 3  places at the same time which is a bit difficult on you own. . So I took it to a foundry and had one cast . It took them 3 goes to get it right and he told me that every time they do long thin castings they say it will be the last time .

    Anyway I have a good casting and have machined it and started to rebuild the rad

     

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    • Like 10
  13. I have also done some work on all the small annoying bits that take ages . These include both foot and hand throttle linkages ,manual advance and retard linkages .  Most of this was missing or in a very bad state

    There is also a linkage from the clutch that turns the the self cleaning oil filter . Ever time the clutch is depressed a lever moves a  ratchet on the auto clean filter  to turn it about 20 degrees

    The auto clean filter is made up of a series of discs  anchored to the main shaft , in between each disc is a .005 1nch shim that is supposed to scrape any gunge into a separate small sump under the oil filter .

    Every 500 miles this sump is drained 

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    • Like 4
  14. Fitted the pto and started on repairing the hydraulic pump.

    The pump body and reservoir is a  aluminum casting . It had 4 corner  flanges for mounting it , 3 of these are broken 

    I cut a suitable piece of plate and welded it to one corner as a trial 

    The aluminum welded ok but needed a lot more amps than I would normally use for a repair like this   I had to resharpen the electrode several time due to impurities coming out of the original aluminum

    The pump bodies and delivery valves are bronze with a total weight of 28 lbs 

    The oil return to the pump body is via the centre of the pump drive shaft through a hole in each eccentric drive to the pistons . 

    All the wearing parts are in very good condition 

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    • Like 1
  15. Next job on the gear box is the pto . Originally it would have been fitted with a pto driven compressor this is long gone but I do have a pto out put shaft  and a suitable period hydraulic pump.

    After being sold this truck worked in a quarry and was possible fitted with a hydraulic tipping body . 

     The pump I have was still bolted to the chassis but every thing else had gone

    Today I rebuilt the pto ready for refitting

    The main shaft which runs in plain bearings was well worn so I machined it and made new bearings 

    To save making a mandrel to machine the od of the bearing I bored it to size and the used  locktight to hold it on the shaft to machine it to size. Then warmed it up to break the lock tight .

    Pressed the bearings into the housing  , made new gaskets and fitted the end plate. 

    The  shaft is sealed by a stuffing box  . so had to raid the box of graphite packing and chose some graphite rope that was small enough to fit in the box and fitted the gland nut .

    Does anyone knows of a suitable period hydraulic ram for a tipping body ?

    I will make a suitable tipping body when time permits 

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    • Like 2
  16. Riveting  the plates on was a bit difficult as the rivets bent into the softer balata instead of forming heads at each end . I made the rivets out of 10 gauge gas welding rod .

    The whole drive shaft is a very tight fit but it is in place  Next job will be too make bolts to the correct length and make some castle nuts 

    Then I will have to dismantle for a clean up and sort the paint out . 

    Dave if you let me know the PCD of the bolt holes I will see what I have .  11 inch disc seems rather large  . My dics are 4.5 pcd of the bolt holes and 6 inch od

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    • Like 2
  17. 1 hour ago, Scrunt & Farthing said:

    Nice work there, Smiffy.  And exactly the job I have to do on my Leyland at some point.  what glue did you use, and was the Balata belt to any particular spec.?

    Thanks, Dave.   S&F

    The balata belting came from https://www.stationaryengineparts.com/Flat-belting/   They only do belting up to 6 inches wide so that had to do ,I could really have done with some 6.5 inch material .

    The other alternative would be canvas reinforced  conveyor belting . Years ago I would have had something suitable in the yard  but all long since gone  Since moving  a few years ago I no longer have any contacts in the quarrying  industry

    Its almost impossible to get access to such places to ask for any second hand material .The same as scrap yards .

    I used Gorilla glue as its what I had .Hopefully the reverted plates will hold it all together  

    I do have some larger drive discs what size PCD do you need   Mike

     

     

    • Like 1
  18. I ordered  a meter of 6 inch wide balata belt to make a new fabric drive disc . The first step was to cut 3 discs and glue them together . I then mounted them on a face plate and machined them to a nominal 6 inch disc , not easy to machine but ended up with something that is near enough round.

    I cut out 12 reinforcing plates and marked and drilled the 6 holes . Next job is to make the rivets to hold the plates in place 

    It should work ok and a lot cheaper than the quote that I had of over £300 per coupling to have new ones made to original spec 

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    • Like 3
  19. The clutch brake is pivoted on a eccentric pin to allow for adjustment . I machined up  a suitable pin and fitted a bushed sleeve to the end of the clutch brake . This is a very tight fit in the chassis .

    It looks like an after thought as the is very little clearance between the cross member and clutch disc on the gearbox input shaft  . I need to find a suitable piece of friction material to line the brake with and that will be another job done

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  20. It has been a long time since I last posted as many other projects get in the way , everything from clock making to  the restoration of a 2 stone water mill and large francis turbine . I have replaced the gearbox but the clutch brake has long since gone walk about so having a rough idea what it should look like I fabricated a replacement .  The plate has to fit in between the 2  flanges on the drive shaft  This still needs finishing and I need a bit of old clutch friction plate to cut up for the lining .

    Also made a interlock for the gear lever to stop it being put into reverse by mistake , again the original had long gone. I only have 1 flexible coupling for the drive shaft and the firm making replacement ones what too many beer tokens for one .

    I have ordered some balata belting which I will cut into discs rivet together and see it it works  The coupling is 4.5 inches PCD and 6 inches overall and 1 inch thick  

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  21. This dates from 1944 .contract no 294 /S5134/con23A  and 294/23/S2178/con23A  for the 3ton 4x4 load carring chassis  and contract 294/23/S3035 /con 23A  for the4x4 tractor chassis.   My IGL 3 chassis is 1937 and Engine no 31777

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