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Everything posted by smiffy

  1. It might be worth thinking about making some out of gauge plate and then hardening them ,or anneal the old ones then machine and reharden .them .I expect the original ones are carbon steel so well within your capabilities Mike
  2. I have also done some work on all the small annoying bits that take ages . These include both foot and hand throttle linkages ,manual advance and retard linkages . Most of this was missing or in a very bad state There is also a linkage from the clutch that turns the the self cleaning oil filter . Ever time the clutch is depressed a lever moves a ratchet on the auto clean filter to turn it about 20 degrees The auto clean filter is made up of a series of discs anchored to the main shaft , in between each disc is a .005 1nch shim that is supposed to scrape any gunge into a separate small sump under the oil filter . Every 500 miles this sump is drained
  3. Fitted the pto and started on repairing the hydraulic pump. The pump body and reservoir is a aluminum casting . It had 4 corner flanges for mounting it , 3 of these are broken I cut a suitable piece of plate and welded it to one corner as a trial The aluminum welded ok but needed a lot more amps than I would normally use for a repair like this I had to resharpen the electrode several time due to impurities coming out of the original aluminum The pump bodies and delivery valves are bronze with a total weight of 28 lbs The oil return to the pump body is via the centre of the pump drive shaft through a hole in each eccentric drive to the pistons . All the wearing parts are in very good condition
  4. Next job on the gear box is the pto . Originally it would have been fitted with a pto driven compressor this is long gone but I do have a pto out put shaft and a suitable period hydraulic pump. After being sold this truck worked in a quarry and was possible fitted with a hydraulic tipping body . The pump I have was still bolted to the chassis but every thing else had gone Today I rebuilt the pto ready for refitting The main shaft which runs in plain bearings was well worn so I machined it and made new bearings To save making a mandrel to machine the od of the bearing I bored it to size and the used locktight to hold it on the shaft to machine it to size. Then warmed it up to break the lock tight . Pressed the bearings into the housing , made new gaskets and fitted the end plate. The shaft is sealed by a stuffing box . so had to raid the box of graphite packing and chose some graphite rope that was small enough to fit in the box and fitted the gland nut . Does anyone knows of a suitable period hydraulic ram for a tipping body ? I will make a suitable tipping body when time permits
  5. Riveting the plates on was a bit difficult as the rivets bent into the softer balata instead of forming heads at each end . I made the rivets out of 10 gauge gas welding rod . The whole drive shaft is a very tight fit but it is in place Next job will be too make bolts to the correct length and make some castle nuts Then I will have to dismantle for a clean up and sort the paint out . Dave if you let me know the PCD of the bolt holes I will see what I have . 11 inch disc seems rather large . My dics are 4.5 pcd of the bolt holes and 6 inch od
  6. The balata belting came from https://www.stationaryengineparts.com/Flat-belting/ They only do belting up to 6 inches wide so that had to do ,I could really have done with some 6.5 inch material . The other alternative would be canvas reinforced conveyor belting . Years ago I would have had something suitable in the yard but all long since gone Since moving a few years ago I no longer have any contacts in the quarrying industry Its almost impossible to get access to such places to ask for any second hand material .The same as scrap yards . I used Gorilla glue as its what I had .Hopefully the reverted plates will hold it all together I do have some larger drive discs what size PCD do you need Mike
  7. I ordered a meter of 6 inch wide balata belt to make a new fabric drive disc . The first step was to cut 3 discs and glue them together . I then mounted them on a face plate and machined them to a nominal 6 inch disc , not easy to machine but ended up with something that is near enough round. I cut out 12 reinforcing plates and marked and drilled the 6 holes . Next job is to make the rivets to hold the plates in place It should work ok and a lot cheaper than the quote that I had of over £300 per coupling to have new ones made to original spec
  8. The clutch brake is pivoted on a eccentric pin to allow for adjustment . I machined up a suitable pin and fitted a bushed sleeve to the end of the clutch brake . This is a very tight fit in the chassis . It looks like an after thought as the is very little clearance between the cross member and clutch disc on the gearbox input shaft . I need to find a suitable piece of friction material to line the brake with and that will be another job done
  9. It has been a long time since I last posted as many other projects get in the way , everything from clock making to the restoration of a 2 stone water mill and large francis turbine . I have replaced the gearbox but the clutch brake has long since gone walk about so having a rough idea what it should look like I fabricated a replacement . The plate has to fit in between the 2 flanges on the drive shaft This still needs finishing and I need a bit of old clutch friction plate to cut up for the lining . Also made a interlock for the gear lever to stop it being put into reverse by mistake , again the original had long gone. I only have 1 flexible coupling for the drive shaft and the firm making replacement ones what too many beer tokens for one . I have ordered some balata belting which I will cut into discs rivet together and see it it works The coupling is 4.5 inches PCD and 6 inches overall and 1 inch thick
  10. This dates from 1944 .contract no 294 /S5134/con23A and 294/23/S2178/con23A for the 3ton 4x4 load carring chassis and contract 294/23/S3035 /con 23A for the4x4 tractor chassis. My IGL 3 chassis is 1937 and Engine no 31777
  11. Engine Lubrication chart
  12. There is no separate oil tank .the sump is in 2 sections with a scavenger pump transferring the oil to the second section from where it is pumped via the auto clean filter to the bearings . The carbon deposits removed by the auto clean fall into a separate section which is drained every 2000 miles via a plug at the base of the filter housing The auto clean filter is automatically cleaned every time the clutch pedal is depressed Mike
  13. The FWD model was not built until 1940 and all models were fitted with a dry sump engine . Do you have a positive date of manufacture for yours ? and what is the engine no . The no is stamped into the crankcase above the front pulley on all the engines I have seen . The no of Crossleys that survive are few and far between so a rare beast and it looks in good order. Mike
  14. The basic engine design remained unchanged from the I G L 3 to the end of production .Early engines have aluminium crankcases this was changed to cast iron due to a shortage of aluminium some time after 1940 . Early engine have a up draft carburettor and a simms magneto .The 90 hp engine has a down draft carburettor modified cylinder heads and a distributor driven via a right angle drive . The bracket remains the same on each engine and the mag or distributor are interchangeable .The sump is modified on the 4x4 to allow clearance for the front axle . Cylinder blocks are interchangeable across all models. . Mike
  15. Try this company http://amalcarb.co.uk/
  16. Excellent work as usual . I dont know how you manage being so far away from the truck .My workshop is about 50 foot from my machine shop and I moan about how many times in a day that I walk between the 2. Mike
  17. Simms SRM4 direction reversal Remove points cover and distributor cap Undo screw in middle of cam Make a small puller and remove cam ,note the letter stamp on the cam to indicate rotation direction Remove backing plate behind points Find the dot on the small gear which should line up with either the L or R mark om the distributor gear and set appropriately Replace cam in correct position remark direction on mag body so you dont forget that the arrow on the oil cap is now in the wrong direction
  18. Yes mag is SRM 4. I think that I fitted new bearing ,but it was over 30 years ago. I do have a few spares in various states of repair .that I will repairing if the need arises. The mag was the wrong direction of rotation when I aquired it, so I reversed the direction . It has a good spark so will leave it alone. I stared getting the gear box into shape to refit fortunately its in fair order , When I started this restoration i 1985 I fitted new bearings and fitted lip seals in place of the original felt seals . The gearbox is a real sod to fit . as it has to be lifted up from underneath and is a very tight fit. . It also sits on a sub frame ,with a carden shaft to the clutch .It was obviously fitted before the cab . I cleared all the bits of the rear to start assessing what needs doing . When I started this project I did a huge amount of work on the axles and breaks etc Hopefully this is still ok but it will require a lot of work to get it to a good standard
  19. Fitted the engine today. It sits on a sub frame which is is mounted in plain bearing at the front , is ridge mounted in the middle and a spherical bearing at the rear. Once the engine is fitted it is very difficult to work on ., even changing the started motor or water pump is awkward .
  20. I only need some tyres to get the truck mobile they would not be used on the road , so will try and get some casings .The new tyres will not be needed for some time yet. Mike
  21. Thanks , I had seen these tyres but was hoping to find some part worn . When I last brought any tyres there seemed to be plenty around but that would not appear to be the case now . I will just have to bight the bullet and buy some . I have promised my better half an extension and new kitchen next year , she might not understand that tyres are more important than a new cooker Mike
  22. My thoughts are turning towards getting the truck mobile as I need to turn it around soon . Can anyone point me in the right direction to obtain 900 x 20 bar grip tyres . The last time I required some was over 20 years ago and they were readily available but now it seems to be a different story. Mike
  23. I have assembled most of the engine .having replace all the manifold stud etc . The exhaust manifold had one broken flange which I machined off flat and having cut a new flange I welded it on using a 29/9 rod
  24. I am referring to the valve timing at tdc not the mag timing which will be set at a max of 30 degrees btdc
  25. i will carry on rebuilding my original engine as i have enough parts . The pistons are of a rather odd design as they are machined right through below the oil control ring and the crown of the piston is only attached by 2 luggs cast up above the gudgeon pin. I have refitted the mag and auto advance . The drive chain adjustment is for camshaft and mag is by sliding the housing out and to lock it in place the mag support bracket is serrated and locked with serrate washes . I will set the timing with the piston at T D C and set the valves on the bounce, and hope this is about right
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