TOM MODEL T

Some progress on the Unic. Engine is at the engineering shop for new white metal. Tyres have been ordered. I am still looking for a war time body design.

Firewall and reworked steering column in place.

Cone clutch stripped and cleaned.

Engine loosely assembled. Now for crating and shipping to the machine shop.

Steering column to firewall bracket made up.

Pedals nearly done. Linkages made up.

Steve Congratulations on the first start-up!!!. Had a similar problem on my 1904 De Dion Bouton. Also ran a Solex on first start-up. Engine would only idle for 3 minutes and then quit. Would not rev up. Changed the plug, rebuilt the carb again, reset ignition timing. No difference. Decided to recheck valve timing. I had assembled according to factory marks during the rebuilt. I now worked on basic Otto principles and came to the conclusion that the timing was out by one tooth. Assembled the valve timing one tooth advanced and all was well. Good luck! Regards Tom

Progress to date.

Unic Ambulance photograph that I found online. Photo apparently dates from 1918.

The Unic as advertised before I purchased her.

Did Unic ever feature in the War effort? I have remains of a 1913 Unic C 9 light commercial. Regards Tom

Excellent progress! Congratulations! On my old vehicles, I soak the oil seal felt in vegetable oil before fitting. It then compresses nicely and mineral based lubricants does not wash the vegetable oil off. Looking forward to the next post!

Just a follow up on the new oil pump made for my 1927 Velie: Start up pressure is 60 Lbs. and at slow idle hot is 30 Lbs. I need to modify the relief valve spring a bit to bring it down a bit. The VW gears are 32mm OD.

I am busy restoring a 1927 Velie car. The oil pump was in a terrible condition and would not even pump oil. I purchased a new high output pump for a VW Beetle. We used the gears from this pump, measured all the clearances and machined a new pump body to fit the gears to the measured clearances. The VW pump is cheap and available. Good luck!

I am in a similar situation finding parts for a vintage car that is the only known one of its kind on the continent of Africa and one of about 8 worldwide. I have owned it since 2001 and only managed to find a speedometer in all this time. I started working on it towards the end of November 2013 and forwarded pictures and progress reports to some contacts that have similar vehicles in the USA and Canada. The car was about 60% complete at the time. It is now 90% complete. I received measurements, photos and leads on parts from various sources. The remaining 10% comprises of trim items that can be sourced from other vehicles or made up. Most of the parts came from the USA, some from Canada and the UK. I have just located a bonnet/hood for it in Texas after receiving drawings and photos to make one. At least the drawings and photos assisted in identifying the part. Good luck with your project and I am looking forward to read on your progress. Regards!

I had a quick look at the Running Boards on my Model T "s" : 1914 : Wooden blocks between front and rear fenders to running boards. 1918 and 1923 : No blocks between front fenders and running boards but rear fenders do have wooden blocks. All have wooden blocks between running boards and support brackets. I checked in the Snyder's catalogue and they state that 1909 to 1916 used 8 blocks which corresponds with my 1914. 1917-1925 only used 4. The rear fenders on my 1918 and 1923 did not fit properly without the wooden blocks. There is a bracket on the rear fender that bolts to the splash apron and these did not line up without the block. My 1914 and 1923 are Canadian built and the 1918 is a mixture of USA and Canadian parts collected all over the show. I must also add that there was plenty of rot on the fenders where the blocks are!

Great work! I am busy with a 1918 "T" Left hand drive Runabout. Were these used in war color? The rear mudguards had some green paint on them when found.

Hi Steve I had excessive end float on the 1923 Ford Model T engine. The white metal was in excellent condition and I did not want to re-metal. I had 2 new thrust washers machined from a good quality brass. The original white metal thrust surface was machined down, the crankshaft surfaces trued up. The new thrust washers were pinned to the block and cap and the end play re-set to .002". Have completed 5000 km since and all is fine. Have you tried the following link for pistons? www.egge.com Regards Tom

:yawn:While on the subject of Overland, this is my 26/27 Overland Whippet 96. It is the only vehicle in my collection that vaguely represents a military vehicle at this stage! I do have plans for something else......Regards Tom

Will it be too risky fitting a valve seat insert ? How much "meat" is there to play with? I fitted hardened inserts (custom made) in my 14 Ford T and used stainless valves. We were worried about cutting into the water jackets, but it worked out fine. The original in-situ seats were badly pitted, cracked, oversized and recessed. At least the valve heads now protrude slightly above the seats, minimising the risk of burnt valves.

Hi Richard ,I did a quick Google. Overland used these axles from 1910 - 1917. It started with epecyclic gears. I have no data to verify any of this. The pic is also from the net. I have the front axle and wheels for one.

Found this in an old Overland car sales broshure.

I noticed the incorrect spelling. The photo is of a reproductionl badge that was for sale on e-Bay. It is otherwise identical to the badge on my 1926 Whippet Truck. The damaged car in the photo's are very similar to the 1917-1919 Overland Model 90 and 1920 Overland Model Model 4. Regards.

It lookes like : "Overland" "Automobiles" "Made in Toledo Ohio USA". The attached photo of the badge is later, about 1927.

I started following your threads over the weekend, after reading everything!. Great work and dedication. I have included a photo of 2 lamps that came with my 1914 Ford Model T. They are marked Dreadnaught and are very similar to those in your post. Any idea where they came off? Regards Tom