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Stefano

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Everything posted by Stefano

  1. Have you looked at the flexible brake pipes? They can expand internally and allow brake fluid to pass though under pressure but the return springs aren't man enough to force the fluid to return, thereby causing the brakes to stick on.
  2. I always thought that AMC stood for Associated Motorcycles (Matchless - AJS - Sunbeam)...
  3. Ghostrider, Here's a pic of a '47, hope it helps. James kept the ML prefix postwar even though the bike was built for the civilian market. It would have been painted burgandy with silver tank panels, lined gold. You can find transfers from the Vintage motorcycle club transfer service, and as regards spares, try Heritage Motor Works: http://www.heritage-gb.org.uk/ for cycle parts and villiers services for mechanical bits. I've been reliably told that ML's are enjoyable little things, I suppose I'll find out when I finish mine (ha ha). Good luck, Stefano
  4. I would put the frame N° 22805 around 1947, but you really need to check whether it's been mucked around with - it wouldn't be the first time. As for the bike, the biggest problem with it is that the Villiers 9D engine has been replaced with one off an NSU Fox - that's a first for me.
  5. Here are a couple of photos of CDF's back in the day plus one of a preserved example seen at Beltring a few years back.
  6. An interesting list, thanks for posting it up
  7. Franz, Heritage Motor Works: http://www.heritage-gb.org.uk/ They do quite a few bits for the 'flea, give them a call. As for the headlight, I think Grove Classics do a repro Miller 6 3/4" bowl and rim. You'll have to blank off the Ammeter hole and sort out a switch though. Cheers, Stefano
  8. Franz, 4403 is a nice early number, part of contract N° S1945, stipulated 02/01/43. Deliveries started November 1943, continuing into 1944. Your serial N° would be C 5111404. By the way, a really nice 'flea you've got there. The only bits that I can see that look wrong are the headlight (Miller), headlamp brackets (were strip steel), carburetter (Villiers with strangler and air filter), twistgrip (was a flimsy affair - can post up a photo if you need it), toolbox, handlebar locking lever and vented petrol cap (Terry Jones reproduces them all). I see that you've still got the original Mansfield saddle - very rare. All the best, Stefano
  9. Wow wow wow - I would so love a 6 x 4...
  10. You don't say.. I've given up on trying to get spares from them - it would be nice to know if there's another source of spares for my F60S.
  11. ....very handy for cleaning out carburetters as well - just the ticket when you've got an amal with a blocked needle jet.. nb: wine vinegar works just as well - save the malt for chips (there's no such thing as malt vinegar in Italy )
  12. Jim, Really really lovely, I'm deeply impressed
  13. Can't believe that it was described as "restored"..... at least you'll know that the job will have been done properly this time around
  14. Glynn, As 79 x100 says, that's the man to ask for the contract plates. As for the footrests, I think that Heritage motor works Ltd. does them (http://www.heritage-gb.org.uk ). S.C.C. 2 is indeed the correct colour for early ML's, the same colour that everything else was painted at the time Cheers
  15. Re engine colour, our Humber's engine was a very similar grey to yours. Like others have said, ther's no need to go the high temperature route. I've always used epoxy enamel on engines and have never had any problems, the important thing is that the components to be painted are totally clean, paint will not adhere to grease
  16. Bronze green? It's gloss, but wouldn't be anywhere near correct for the Humber. The correct colour would be S.C.C. 15 olive drab, and it's matt. The Starmer book gives you the mix to make it up from Humbrol enamels, after that you could get it matched up. I know that there are companies that sell paint ready made but I have no experience with these, although I'm sure that others on the forum will have.
  17. The C8/P? Very impressive piece of kit that one The front end looks alot like the C9/B with the squared off wheelarches but was on the shorter wheelbase and had a rear body and a canvas tilt (plus aeroscreens). The majority (if not all) were transormed into 17 pdr tractors. A very luck find, although I'd rather have your PU any day!! I'll try to dig some photos of the C8/P up but I'm sure others on the forum will beat me to the draw.. Cheers, Stef
  18. They're Moto Guzzi Falcone 500cc flat singles - good bikes
  19. Maarten, You will certainly need an operative brakelight for a MOT unless you strip out all the lights and declare it as daytime use only (hand signals then apply). In any case it really would only take half an hour to rig up a working stop lamp - A switch working on the rear brake rod connected up to a battery hidden in the toolbox and problem solved. However I think that you may also have to rig up a speedometer as well, seeing as it became compulsory on all motorcycles built from January 1st 1939. There might have been a dispensation for smaller engined bikes but I doubt it seeing as Bantam D1's had speedometers from the word go. I would think that one of those cheapo bicycle speedometers would do the trick though By the way, congratulations on your purchase. and let us see some photographs please!!
  20. Andrea, You want to try a proper sporting flat tank like a two speed Scott / Sunbeam Mod. 9 / Triumph TT / Norton Mod 18 / o.h.v. Douglas, etc. They weigh next to nothing, corner like they're on rails, go like stink and even have half decent brakes. Magnificent things
  21. Thanks for that Simon, very interesting
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