67burwood

Your welcome Alastair, another wot6 saved 👍👍

Thanks for the info, all very helpful, I might look for a locally based division during ww2.

Thanks Richard REME markings it is , just need to choose a division.

Definitely worth a go, it was about £20 for 2 bags, my thinking is when one is full swap for the dry bag while the wet one dries out on the radiator.

Rear axle progress report Rear axle cleaned and painted Torque tube and propshaft fitted Rear axle back in place. New can of straight gear oil arrived yesterday, just need to tighten the U bolts and fill with oil, typically the weather isn’t playing ball to get it finished. Opinions and advice needed in regards to Divisional markings I am going to order some stencils soon so I’d like a few ideas for 1944-45 markings, what’s division’s/regiments would have had a machinery truck issued during that period??

Quick update 2 x 1 kg silica gel bags arrived on Christmas Eve 1 bag in the truck for the last 6 days and it’s almost completely dry, there is only a small section of roof that is still damp but it’s looking good so far 👍

Looking forward to reading the progress reports 👍👍

A bit of light hearted fun, by the looks of it no one got hurt.

Point taken, I’ve ordered a pair of silica gel bags so I can swap them around. The truck is currently not covered in a tarp as surprisingly the cab is fairly water tight, I have a Jeep that has a tarp over it and the canvas hood is always damp due to trapped moisture.

Not a bad idea but I am looking for something a little more cost affective 😁

Thanks for the link, I’ll order some and see how it gets on. I’ve opened the windscreens to allow a bit more air flow, hopefully that and some silica gel will make an improvement.

👍 I’ll give that a Google and see what I can find out. Another good suggestion, I’ll definitely look into that one. 👍

The worst area is the cab roof, as there’s no head lining it’s like a monsoon when you touch it, I’d like to insulate the roof area but it’s a difficult shape to make something that looks period and in keeping.

This is a problem that’s been around for years, condensation inside the cab, if you don’t have covered storage and your military vehicle lives outside like mine, what can be done to prevent massive amounts of condensation building up and potentially rotting your vehicle, I opened the door of my wot6 today and it looked like the inside had been hosed down!! It’s no wonder these old vehicles just rotted away, someone mentioned about putting a small heater bar inside the cab which isn’t a bad idea but I am looking for some more cost affect ideas if possible???

Great restoration Rob, thanks for sharing the progress throughout this thread 👍 Seamus

If the engine isn’t turning over you need to check battery, battery connectors, earth cable, starter switch connectors, starter switch ,, starter cable and starter motor. ignition switch and coil would come under spark related problems. Alternator and alternator wiring would be charging problems.

It does sound like a bad connection or faulty starter switch, it only needs a loose connection on the starter cable to be an intermittent fault, it’s annoying but it’s a process of elimination, disconnect the battery and one by one undo each cable connection, clean and reassemble as you go, if the fault reoccurs put a test light on the battery side of the starter switch to check power to the switch, if there’s power put the test light on the starter side and get some one to press the starter switch ( obviously mind fingers and hands in case it engages) if you have power the switch is ok and the fault is most likely the starter.

😂 …. Well ….. if it’s any consolation I went to move my Jeep this evening so I could put up something outside Christmas lights and the battery was flat as a pan cake!!!!

Oops 😁

Not sure on checking the draw from the starter motor, I use a battery drop tester for that as it’s more heavy duty, but the multimeter is a must for general vehicle electrics.

I use a Sealey multimeter, it’s a few year old now but it does the job, I think there about £20, there are cheaper and of course much more expensive ones but for occasional use don’t go mad, it also has an audible continuity function which is useful for checking wiring for breaks or bad connections.

You can buy a trickle charger that can be discreetly fitted, they have a Jack plug type fitting ( properly not the correct name) so you can just plug the charger into the socket without popping the hood every time and connecting to the battery, I had one fitted to a Land Rover 110, the battery was under the seat so the plug in socket made it much easier.

From memory it should be above 13.2v at idle or just above idle and below 14.5v

The alternator only produces what I would call a surface charge, basically it keeps the battery topped up, if the battery had discharged enough then the alternator wouldn’t recharge it enough on a run, double check the battery connections and put a voltage meter on the battery when it’s running.

Was the battery actually flat?? Or could there be another fault?? ie a loose connection, one minute it will turn over fine next minute nothing, the weather is starting to get a bit colder, that could also kill a weak battery.