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mammoth

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Posts posted by mammoth

  1. Have been down this track with 24v Volvo semi trailer, led bulbs mess with the indicator circuits so back to changing set of bulbs. As suggested the way to go is to use the truck converters which are solid state (no relays) however ones on ebay in Aus only have 6 circuits so no reverse light. So you have two trailer sockets on the tow vehicle, one for each voltage.

  2. What an amazing find. The ambulance is described by Rod Dux as built on a 2 ton Thornycroft chassis in 1915, Similarly the workshops are built on Garford, Commer and Daimler chassis. Note that they have sprags to act as roll-back brakes which was part of the initial British WD specification.

  3. Over in the pre-WWll vehicle section of this forum I have been telling the story of my 1911 Dennis fire engine and plans to restore it. Originally fitted with an antique style White & Poppe T head engine it was found with a Mercedes diesel engine show-horned into it. The vehicle was sold off by New South Wales Fire Brigade around 1930 after which none of it's history is known.

    It has been out in the weather for many years with loose covers on the engine and injector pump so when I drained out 9 litres of water from the sump my heart sank. Nevertheless strip down revealed internals were surprisingly good. DSCF3257-Copy(2).thumb.JPG.f1da6f48fb508cd9adc5860b5f0223cb.JPG

    No no 3 piston was well stuck with a slightly rusty bore but has since been removed and will be serviceable. Some of the cam followers are proving to be stubborn. The injectors seem Ok but the Bosch injector pump may be too far gone so I am looking for a replacement.

    The total of knowledge gleaned from the internet about this engine is; model:  M65/3 or M65/4 of 4,849cc 105 x 140 bore & stroke built between 1936 and 1943, delivering 74bhp at 2250 rpm. This model was a significant redesign of the earlier4942cc OM65 introduced circa 1933. A lot of the figures are a bit fuzzy or conflicting across different web sites

    This engine was fitted to the L3000  truck, both army and civilian, of which many thousands were made.

    I am seeking help  with injector and cam shaft timing timing,  as well as sourcing a serviceable injector pump.

  4. Torque settings on big end and main bearings seemed somewhat random. Crank lifted leaving pistons behind. Big ends have heavy bronze shells with what looks like cast white metal bearing surface. Only one shell had some damage and all bearing surfaces looked near perfect. DSCF3257-Copy.thumb.JPG.f62fa330d169683e57530afdc1f0e1d8.JPG

    Three of the pistons slid out nicely with one having a broken bottom oil ring. No grinding in the oil pump so relief there as well. The third piston had water damage but could be driven out with wood and lump hammer. The piston rings are jammed in with nil gap but otherwise seems will be serviceable.

    The cam followers were the big concern however all could be moved a little by wedging between cam shaft and follower. Four have been punched out but the others are not budging. To get a direct push I would need to remover the cam shaft and here lies another mystery - the cam gear unbolts but is not indexed in any way so hope I have marked it right! DSCF3260.thumb.JPG.f408c54190cf487eb438077bb1837466.JPG

    It appears that cam shaft installation/removal is a factory job so I will have to work on other ways to release the remaining cam followers. The water damaged bore looks like it will hone up OK. DSCF3259-Copy.thumb.JPG.a5cb3c6112e76471cff5995bcd9f41ca.JPG

    So, it appears that the basic engine is sound and recoverable, albeit with the stumbling block of getting a rebuild or replacement of the injector pump. How much should I invest in this motor when it is not the original Dennis item??

    • Like 3
  5. Water pump bolts to the side and was frozen but removed as a unit to be dealt with later. Block turned over, sump off to reveal  - nil rust!. I assume this is because the oil floating on top of the water for all those years kept things anaerobic. Conventional clutch, and starter motor with teeth wrecked.

    DSCF3249.thumb.JPG.01d12dafc505d3464cb9424a8f67c42b.JPG

    • Like 1
  6. Unless anyone knows better I believe this to be an OM65/3 or /4 as fitted to the WWll L3000 truck. 4,849cc of 105x140 bore & stroke delivering 74bhp at 2250rpm. That is that limit of internet help and unless I but a genuine manual @ 300 Euro I am ploughing a lone furrow. It presents as quite a modern, if basic design. Water has been allowed to get into the Bosch injector pump resulting in becoming frozen. Attempts to dismantle have shown that the aluminium galls on the steel threads.

    Draining the sump filled a 10 litre bucket with water which indicated a poor prognosis for saving the engine. With loose tappet covers and side covers water had been making it's way down to the cam follower gallery and it looked like the cam followers were very rusty indeed. Strip down proceeded with the injectors screwing out OK  DSCF3253.thumb.JPG.27f05330e8833632f2ebd26f1a9bb7cc.JPG

    and heads coming off with little protest. Timing marks on the cam wheel are something of a mystery and as the crank was frozen I had no way of rotating things to see what lined up. DSCF3252-Copy(2).thumb.JPG.4b0995551f82994b157992a07b57181c.JPG

    • Like 1
  7. Usual story of time getting away while being distracted by other projects and obligations. However, one concern was that diesel injector/pump shops are disappearing and I had better investigate the viability of the Mercedes diesel motor while there is still one less than half hour away.

    The engine has been a remarkable exercise of shoe-horning it into the chassis. It sits on angle plates at each corner. These are welded to the chassis and in the normal course of events it should be a straight lift, however the cast sump is shaped so that it is wider at the bottom and won't go past the engine supports. Accordingly, the engine had to be slid back and up to extract it, and the the transfer gearbox had to be removed to allow it to go back .

     

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    • Like 1
  8. first pic - if you look at drivers left hand it looks like boards are backed by angle iron which curves around from top to sides.

    My 1920's Brockway has relatively thin flat metal scuttle and relies on internal verticals for bracing, so would assume those in the pics were using metal faced board with the metal wrapped around the edges.

    Phil Dixon's A10 (civilian) Albion used plywood for scuttle which was determined to be original.

  9. The reason I asked about the keys is that I have the same repair issue ahead of me with my Ruston Proctor traction. For sliding gears manufacturers generally used either square shafts or with up to eight keys machined from the solid. The dovetailed keys is an interesting take, obviously in an attempt to stop the loose keys from rocking in the keyway.

  10. It looks like it's function is simply to locate the spring by compression and likely that each spring leaf has a dimple for location. "some" heat won't change much. You need to have the casting up to red heat (and then let cool) to have any chance to break the bond. Heating the casting up will equally heat the bolt so no difference in expansion, however you might consider cooling the bolt by putting a lunch box (sealed with plasticene) around it and filling the box with crushed ice, or even liquid nitrogen, although the latter may leave the bolt too brittle for serious turning.

    good luck!

  11. The Republic history is contained in the book Flash and Fizzle, available from Alma Library (the town where they were made). It seems that Republic did not get involved in early shipments to Europe, however it was one of a number (15) of manufacturers who built the standard pattern 'Liberty type B" truck. Production started in 1917 and worked up to 30 trucks a day. In all 32,000 Liberty B trucks were produced, of which more than 13,000 were shipped overseas.

    • Like 1
  12. A win win would be to convert to the later version of the mkll Hippo and that is to fit 13.50-20 or 14.00-20. Remains authentic and gives it that hunky look plus a few mph faster because of the larger diameter tyres

  13. The calculations are correct so far as rim diameter goes however the vintage sizes had a 100% profile (they are as high as they are wide) whereas modern sizes are about 90% and thus require a wider rim and tyre to achieve the same outer diameter. This is why they look wrong on a vintage truck. As said 9,00 20 would be the closest to get you on the road and have the required load rating. The 10,50 x 22 are an American size and were likely specced due to war time availability. They will still be available from USA. but a change of rim to 20" would allow fitting 10.00-20 tyres. Check that the stud pcd is European and not American Budd.

    Pre war lighter trucks often used 36 x 6.00  which at a glance looks similar but actually works out as a 24" rim and a modern nearest conversion would require a change of rim to 20" with 7.00 - 20 tyre

    • Like 1
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