Carruthers

Thanks for spotting these and letting us all know. The first photo, that CS8 is only 251 before my lorry's serial number!! Also nice to see some pix of the earlier version (serial dated '35) with flat sided front wings, rounded top bonnet and flat straight front bumper. Simon

Does anyone know if there are any running examples of Cromwells in the UK? I know of a few in the country but am pretty sure none of them are runners. There was one used in Band of Brothers I seem to rememeber, is that based over here? Any ideas guys!?

Here's a couple of pix of the finished bike. As always there's plenty of little things still to do of course, but I'm at the DVLA getting it registered next. Been chugging round the lanes and it's just perfect the last few days in the sunshine...

Passed MOT today with no advisories. Buzzed back at 55mph! So just the RE decal and knee pads to do plus a general check over - and registration of course!

Started first kick! Sounds great. Raining today so no test ride.... Still a few day's work so I'll book an MOT!!

Just doing the wiring and should have it running later today. MOT at the weekend then... Yo Big C. Are you meaning my bike? I suppose might sell it, but only when i'm happy everything's spot on and sorted. Should have some pix to post at the weekend.

Rick I can burn you a CD of my resto showing plenty of detail of the tear down and re-build of my CO if it would help. Plus i have walkarounds for several other COs for comparison etc. Simon

Hi Rick, I originaly bought some of this colour from jeeparts but they no longer keep it. however their supplier is Firwood Paints in Bolton and i've used them for other WD usage colours and they're very good. Their number is 01204 525231. Ref is BS499 their code is 4430 Service brown. Bad news is you have to buy 5 litres! Or I suppose get some mixed to BS499 somewhere else. ALso, it doesn't like being brushed, but I'm assuming you'd be spray finishing anyway. Hope this helps Simon

There is more evidence of the RAF using Ariel's with the Second Tactical Air force in Normandy in he IWM archive. In fact from the archive it seems to be the only type of machine they took over with them! They have 15 folders on the second TAF, well worth a look!

Another pic......

Thanks Ray, You RE looks very nice mate!! Ta for the pic. I've got a pair of economy rear panniers which don't have the D loops or the slotted quadrants on each side to support the bottom tray. I have one of the economy webb bags which at first looks like a large pack has different dimensions and metal tabs to locate in the bottom tray...

Hi Maurice.Wdbikemad got there first, as is correct of course. I think the changeover year was '43. I put up some more pix later.

I bought this bike about 5 years ago. It was mostly complete; the only big item missing was the rear carrier. It had been hand painted green, badly. On the plus side, the frame was straight, the tank was good and it had the correct speedo, Lucas 4 position headlamp switch etc. The forks would need re-bushing etcand it would be no 'winter project', but i reckoned i could make an almost completely original bike with what i had. I didn't run, although it turned over with a dreadful clunk! I've had enough bikes to know what this meant, and knowing RE's plain big end bearing didn't help, but the price reflected the condition and I knew the whole machine would have to come apart. As most of you may know, RE made a batch of COs with the burman gearbox hence the B designation. There were only 3000 made to contract C13870 which was delivered in Sept 1942. The bike has matching frame and engine numbers and the contract info states the start number for frame and census number so I'll be able to work out the tank number it actually had when it left the factory, which will be cool. This machine has undergone a full restoration using all original Royal Enfield parts on the engine. Every component nicely sandblasted, primed and re-sprayed to match the mid-war brown found on the inside of the chaincase and brake plates. I sourced the RE stamped piston/rings/con rod plus valve/springs from John Phelan and elected for a roller race version for the bottom end bearing. On dismantling the engine the total failure was obvious with debris everywhere and ultimately I found the oil feed pipe to the big end missing! Some genius had just replaced the oil feed plug with the pipe left off, and obviously hoped it would drip a further 1" or so to the big end. Scrap one engine! After many many hours cleaning it internally, etc and having the crank split, rebuilt etc, honed for new piston, plus new valves/guides/springs it's all together again. Gearbox stripped and starter quardrant replaced plus some bearings. Mag/dyno (dated 3/43) stripped and several missing bits added so it will work now! New clutch plates, all new cables, wheel bearings, head bearings, wiring harness, brake shoes replaced and hubs skimmed, forks rebuilt with new bushes and spindles, tyres and hundreds a small items it's getting there. I should say that I'll spend any time cleaning up an original nut and bolt instead of just fitting a new one, and actual repro parts currently stand at front foot rest bar, one rear foot rest mounting plate and the tail light. Finished in mid-war brown to match the paint found inside the chain case and brake plates, it should as near to the factory condition as I can make it. here#s some pix- more to follow if you're interested. Simon

Thanks Tony I'll check it out. And thanks No Sigs for the pic. Yes photos to follow. I'll start a new thread on the resto, which is nearly done!

There are several styles I have used on all my vehicles. My Jeep and 15 cwt lorries have a variety of styles, but they are all correct for the time, based on photo archive research. By correct i mean it in the same way as i would if describing any other finish. Would you put 'any 'old' green on your Jeep? No you'd buy the correct paint for the vehicle you wanted to have. That's why I'm asking.... Also i meant 1" not 2" size

Does anyone know of a link, or have any info to the correct font types for the census number please? I know there's several different types and they're 2" characters. Any help appeciated. ta

I've used the resin system as well and, as others say, it works well. However, it depends just how rusty the tank is. The main prob is that you cannot really tell as you can't see in! I use a place in the local town which pressure washes, trucks first with detergent/aggitator which they leave on for 15 mins, then high pressure wash with boiling water. This flushes out all the loose stuff and then I put it in front of a jet worshop heater to dry out. Finally run some diesel around the inside to stop corrosion. At least if you've done this the resin is going into the cleanest environment. Experience with motorbike tanks has shown that sometimes the edges of the resin (if you haven't got it all the way round the tank) can start to break off after soem years and you start dragging crap thro your fuel system with obvious results. Hope this helps. Simon

I've got a stand selling some MV stuff next to Mark Askew's Jeep World stand some come by and say hello! Simon

Hi, Did John have that water carrier part? if not I'd be interested. Unless someone wants my water tank to bung on their 15cwt chassis? cheers Simon

Dude, You're a legend!! Ta for cheering up my Xmas!! Just in from several hours of work preparing my Morric C4 WT for blasting and painting... cheers Simon

Standard crew is 4 as you say Glynn. My dad was a signaller in one of the Morris versions. Not impossible for a three man crew to operate it in theory though. I thought the breakdown was driver, who was in charge of the truck and gene operation/charging the batteries etc, 2 signallers (so there always one on duty) and an NCO in charge. That's why there's 2 seats in the wireless house, apart from the operator's seat.... Maybe there were other crews allocated for different roles. Simon

Hi, The three stud wheel was used on the trolley Acc used for starting planes. I noticed it at Shuttleworth last year but otherwise they looked like the Austin versions seen on trailers. The cars have 5 studs, if i remember from my Morris 10.... Hope this helps Simon

I picked up a double ended ring spanner which has a crows foot and the letters RC or RG stamped on it. i am guessing they are the owner's initials to prove ownership in case anyone lese took a fancy it! The sizes are 7/8" and 1" whitworth but more importantly it has a number stamped on it -G347. Does anyone know if this ties it to a particular vehicle manufacturer? On my Morris maintenance manual all the tools are numbered and i wondered if this was something similar. Either way it's in good nick and a handy size for £2! Simon

There's a pic which may help on the thread for my MW here: http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?11210-Bedford-MW-to-Normandy-(via-N-Africa!)/page4. I have a pic of the parts I fabbed for mine if it would help.... cheers Simon