Topdog

Its not uncommon with this type of sole. They give of a small amount of vapour (phenols?) and if they are kept in plastic or anything which traps the fumes, then they fall apart rapidly.

If you put a pulse charger or deep cycle charger on them, it is amazing what they can come back to. Something like a ring charger is about £50 so well worth getting as new Hawkers are over £100 each. If they are draining there may be a current leak when vehicle not in use.

What a wonderful project. Great engineering, no doubt the final result will make the inevitable frustrations worthwhile

A friend of a friend.............. wants to buy a Saladin, preferably good condition with a live gun if possible. Are there any out there? Cheers Dave

Good luck Mark. I hope it all works out ok without damage.

Welcome Gordon, Sorry but I don't have an email for Matt. David

Rumour has it that on the last flight they might do a full roll. The aircraft will do it but is not cleared.

Where are you based

Welcome and good luck

Hmmm, possibly handles on the side. Is there a coil or sensor under the cover? Not very large, only a few inches across. Nope - no idea at all.

Too picky Vince, just back the timing off a bit and give it a go..................

I am sure the developers wont leave the posts in place. There was 1 small berm in the arena made by digging a ditch but with a bit of effort it could have been made much better. I go into the arena to enjoy the driving and I just don't bother now. Its not worth the hassle

OH YES. DONE IT. Having checked the coil and tried another one. Checked and chased all the wiring back. Took the cover off the points and it started....... ran beautifully! Finally, found that the points cover was just touching the points and earthing it all to the engine casing. I have now insulated it and bingo. I am SURE that the problem is now sorted. Thanks to all who offered help. Now then, to try it in water with a small outboard attached - what could possibly go wrong?

Welcome Bro' Looking forward to Sun 19th, driving a Ferret up to Oxford

Ahhh, you just beat me to it..................

There are loads of photos on the web but they are all different in so many ways depending on what era you wish to represent and what radios etc are fitted. There is also a variety of grenade boxes that can be fitted to lugs on the interior. What are inside are you particularly referring to?

Richard, I have totally cleaned and replaced fuel pipes, filters etc. Supply is direct to carb with no fuel cutoff. I cannot get any visual spark at the moment by earthing a plug to the engine casing and there is no hint of firing. After leaving the ignition on for a period while I tinkered with something else, the coil was quite hot on the outside of the case and now there is no spark at all so, I think that I have cooked the coil. I will be trying to hook up another coil when I can get something. Dave

Sorry Richard, it is a 17hp twin cylinder Kohler. All the electrics are 12v and the coil runs 1 input from the stator/magneto coil and 1 low tension connector to the points. It then has 2 high tension outputs to the plugs. The points are opened by a pushrod coming out of the block. I assume that the 2 high tension leads fire together on a lost spark system. Its really a twin cylinder lawnmower engine

Aarrrrgh. Still not right. Fuel system is fine but the running is getting worse. This time I know (ha ha) that it is sparks or lack of. I think that the coil is failing. I tried direct battery ignition to the coil because I wasn't getting any impulse feed from the stator loop from the flywheel but having cleaned those contacts I believe that this is now ok. The coil was getting quite hot when used and I think this has broken down. I am currently (no pun intended) sourcing a replacement coil but may have to bodge a car one to fit. By the way, if I put a totally different engine in, does that count as mended?

Thanks Richard, Condenser is being changed when I can get one. How do I test the coil? Again, I would expect that they either worked or were duff. Obviously a couple of more things to check. Cheers Dave

Mutter mutter. The Argo is sitting on my drive and seems to be running ok. It even holds a nice full throttle so off I go down the road...... for about 50 yards, when it stops - Dead. Nicely placed opposite a parked car and so I am blocking the road to all but pushbikes. Frantic engine cranking manages to produce enough GO to pull into the road side and a guy comes out with his kids and offers to push - Thanks Phil. I finally get the engine going again but this time cannot engage reverse so we push it backwards. Even light vehicles are dammed heavy up a slight slope. Next move, go get car and tow Argo back onto driveway. The only thing that hasn't been changed is condenser. I will get a new one, but I thought these either worked or didn't. The other thing is some sort of sealed electronic module with 3 leads linked to condenser coil and points. Any ideas folks? Dave

Thanks Richard. Its actually not the Ferret but carbs are not my thing. All hints are good. All the Best Dave

Isnt it a pain when an engine won't run properly, it seemed to be fuel starvation but not sure. Petrol tank was dirty - removed, filled with gravel and bounced around and agitated until clean. It was then flushed dried refitted. New fuel lines all through - check New fuel filter - check. Old one was full of Shiite. Small ancillary automatic fuel pump bypassed. Small in line hand operated fuel pump cleaned. check. That was shockingly full of crud, I was convinced I had found the cause. The engine will then start but not rev freely, will not pull any power and cuts out. Previously, the carb had been removed, all gaskets renewed and main jet cleaned, float checked. Still wont pull any power and I am losing the will to live. Oh yes, plugs points leads gaps etc all checked and good. Clean fresh fuel put in. NOPE, still wont work Hmm, there are 3 small screws on the carb, one of which is idle speed but I don't know what the other 2 are. I guess mixture and something else. I think from the colour of the plugs and that it wont take large throttle openings that it is running rich but it seems to start better with choke. So I counted the turns on one screw, remove it, and it is a needle screw. A dammed good squirt of brake cleaner through it and woohoo. That seems to have done it. Now I have to play gently with the screws to try and maximise performance. Happy motoring folks Dave

If it is started by road imperfection rather than just speed then it is loose bearings in hubs or steering or drive. Speed related wobble is more likely to be wheels out of balance/true.

I think the white one is a Navy moneybelt.