YK55

I went to the auction yesterday and was staggered at the prices achieved. I only stayed for the first 42 lots and out of those only 6 didn't meet reserve. £10000 for a Lightweight Land Rover, £14000 for an Austin Champ, £2100 for a Condor m/cycle which were previously advertised for £1350? Willys M38 £11175, .50 cal Browning £1760, 1990 Land Rover 90 diesel rag-top £6139, Sankey trailers £385-£440, MG Midget £4400......... Out of 172 lots only 32 were subject to VAT

I think it's just the way they are. My own MJ would do 50mph on the flat but it wasn't at all comfortable at that speed. 40-45 is the max for cruising. On hills they slow down like hitting a wall! The main problem is the gearbox, it's very wide ratio, 1st is a crawler so that effectively leaves you with 3 gears. My MJ would climb hills revving almost to the limiter in 2nd but if I tried changing up into 3rd it would virtually stall, the gears are so widely spaced. I can't imagine what it would be like at it's maximum train weight of over 14000kgs! Andy.

Right foot gearchange, left foot rear brake. Everything else same as a modern bike.

Here's mine. It took me 2 years (and an awful lot of money) to build it from a box of bits. Passed the Mot last week, first time on the road for 25 years or more. Went for an 80 mile run yesterday and it rode fantastic!

I've edited my post above to avoid confusion.

I had my 1985 registered MJ tested at Steeton in October last year. No sideguards and no problem. Edit, it was actually registered in 2003, manufactured/first used in 1985.

It was done in 2003 by the previous owner. The helper spring leaves have been removed but the brackets are still in situ.

My MJ is downrated to 7490 kgs. The plated Gross Train Weight is now 10990 kgs, so it can tow a trailer weighing up to 3500 kgs. However, to drive it with such a trailer would require a C+E licence or a C1+E. With just a C1 licence you would be restricted to a trailer weight of 750 kgs. The facts are here :- http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring/DriverLicensing/WhatCanYouDriveAndYourObligations/DG_4022547 Andy.

Oh, it is! :shake:

Hi Steve, I've done the conversion on a Series lll 109 FFR, although it was about 25 years ago! I removed absolutely everything that wasn't required for a 'standard' 12 volt vehicle. Fortunately I had a written off Series lll Lightweight as a donor vehicle so I had everything I needed. Have a look here for a cheap donor vehicle if you go ahead. http://www.ljacksonandco.com/ Andy.

Not true. Since the 1st July 2007 you can use up to 2500 litres of vegetable oil per year as a 'fuel substitute' without needing to register with HM Revenue and Customs or paying any duty on it. You do not need to keep records. You do not need to do anything other than but it and tip it into your tank. If you don't believe me then contact HMR+C directly and ask them, they will even give you a reference number of your conversation.

Hi Tugger, I have an MJ :tup: Some good points mentioned by others above. The engines are difficult, but not impossible to work on. I fitted a new water pump last year and a lot of it had to be done by 'feel' as you can't actually see what you're doing. Spares availabilty is excellent, I use Ditton Service Station and get next-day delivery! Mine is down plated to 7490 kg and can be driven on the pre-97 car licence. ( but you can't tow a trailer over 750kg on a C1 licence ) I get 13 mpg and run on a mixture of diesel and vegetable oil at a ratio of 2:1 You could probably go to 50/50 in the summer. I would advise to get the best one you can afford, it will work out cheaper in the long run and you have a nicer truck too! One sold on ebay recently for £7905 :eek2: :eek2: :eek2: link here :- http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/bedford-mj-4x4-diesel-army-military-lorry-truck_W0QQitemZ170139676585QQihZ007QQcategoryZ122307QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Here's mine, it's a minter 8-) I would consider selling it if I could find a LHD in the same condition.

Oh yes!!! Thanks Joris :tup:

My 'back' button doesn't work on here anymore and there are two boxes at the bottom of each page telling me that I am 'not authorized to view this page' Any ideas, is it just me???

The original carbs (Solex) were crap! The butterfly spindle bore wears in the main body and it leaks more than it burns. No doubt you have a big brown stain on the manifold? That's leaking fuel and it's why old Landies always stink of petrol :-D The smoke on start-up is worn valve guide seals 'They all do that sir' and is not a problem as long as it's just one puff :-o

DVLA info here :- http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring/DriverLicensing/WhatCanYouDriveAndYourObligations/DG_4022499

No, I'm repainting it olive drab. The bike has been standing for 7 years since it was painted and there was rust coming through. The pictures make it look better than it really is. This is going to be a complete rebuild, I've already found several things I'm not happy with The good news is that it's now going back together though :-)

This is a difficult question to answer because goods vehicles and passenger vehicles have seperate regulations, however there is no law regarding the relative weights of towing vehicles and trailers, it's all covered under other legislation. Depending how old it is the towing vehicle should have a stamped alloy plate showing the maximum axle weights and gross train weight. This may be a seperate plate or included on the VIN plate. UK goods vehicles over 3500kgs GVW also need to have a paper 'Ministry' plate, which will have slightly lower weights than the metal manufacturers plate and takes precedence in UK law. If your vehicle has neither of these plates then you could find the relevant weights from the manufacturer or vehicle handbook. You may come across several different terms for the same thing and it can become rather confusing :shake: GVW - Gross Vehicle Weight, the maximum permitted weight of the vehicle (without a trailer) including load, fuel and driver etc. Also referred to as MAM (Maximum Authorised Mass) and MPW (Maximum Permitted Weight) GTW - Gross Train Weight, the maximum permitted weight of the vehicle and trailer including load, fuel and driver etc. Trailers also have their own GVWs

Looking at it again I think you're right. The shims are in a strange place if they were to adjust the fit between transfer box and diff. Why would they not just put them between the flange and the diff? So, the amount of shims at '1' affects how far the flange slides into the transfer box, the distance '2' is not critical. So what is on the other end of the flanged piece, down inside the transfer box?

I'm guessing that the amount of shims affects the pre-load on the end of this shaft?

Absolutely! Just look at the stack of them you have there, they are obviously important. If you don't have the correct clearance then you will be pre-loading some component causing friction and subsequent overheating which will pressurize the transfer box and cause the leak. Can you work out whether more or less shims will give you a clearance? Better to have excess clearance than none at all.

Top result :tup: well done Roadsure.

Have you seen a solicitor? I don't see how the recovery agent and/or Roadsure can avoid responsibility for this :dunno:

and Andy 8-) Good to meet you Rupert, seemed a nice little event, shame the Spitfire didn't turn up yesterday as well! Andy.

Hello Tony, to attach pictures just click on 'additional options' which is below the box where you type your message. This will then open up and show you the type and size of file that you can attach. Then click on 'browse' and select your image. Then post your message in the usual way. Andy.