osiford

Needle rollers are hardened, so it is unlikely that dowel pins will last very long. What is the size of needle you are looking for?

If you're going to lay it up for more than a few months, in addition to the previous comments, I'd expect problems with the brake/clutch hydraulic systems. Old fluid will have water in it, which will mean cylinders may corrode, and seize, especially cast iron ones. This can happen in just a couple of months, as recent experience has shown! I'd at least flush through with fresh fluid, which will be water free, to start with at least. Depending on how much work you are prepared to do, and if storage will be for extended period, it may be worth stripping dust boots off cylinders, and packing with rubber grease, to try to keep corrosion down. If you can, get in and work the brake/clutch pedals once in a while, to keep it all free. Also, don't park it with hand brake on, as shoes tend to stick to drums. As for sticking clutches......

These C licences and tax disc were still in the windscreen of my 5cwt Fordson van when I bought it. It is still in the queue for restoration!

I've just scanned this thread, and from what I can gather, the gauge in question reads OK, except at the critical empty end of the scale, so the basic system seems to be working OK. I've had to fit a number of new sender units and gauges on various vehicles, and none of them are exactly precision calibrated instruments. I have dealt with most as follows. Remove sender unit, and drain tank. Next put in a known quantity of fuel, say a gallon. This is, if you like, a "reserve", as it should have this amount available still, when the gauge reads empty. If your gauge was reading too high a level when the tank ran out, bend the float arm slightly upwards. Reinstall and check reading on gauge. If still not showing empty, remove sender and re tweak. Some folk may not agree with this approach, but I can't see any problem, and I've always been happy with my fuel level readings on the road. Why make things complicated, if a simple solution is available? Just my thoughts, for what they are worth.

I agree, a nice simple and cheap way of doing it. Just don't use one those pathetic 2 1/2 ft long ones that are for tiddly trailers, sold by Halfords and the like, get a proper full width one. Even with a decent lighting set up, it only takes one half (fully?) asleep HGV driver, who doesn't see a 30mph vehicle on a dual carriageway, while on cruise control at 56mph, to spoil your day.

Some are seemingly pointless, but as I get older, I find the prospect of dealing with the fallout less appealing, especially when it's no great effort to at least look like I've tried to comply..

I've only just noticed this thread. Unfortunately, the Road Vehicles Lighting Regulations apply in these cases, and they ARE retrospective in some respects. Other than the few classes of vehicles that are covered by an exemption, and nearly all ex-military vehicles don't qualify for exemption, the following applies. Two tail lamps are required, no further than 16 inches from the outer edge of the vehicle (this does not include mirrors), minimum height from ground 15 inches, maximum 3ft 6 ins. Two reflectors are also required, conforming to same positioning. There are no exemptions I am aware of for the above. A pair of stop lights are required, unless the vehicle was first used before 1st January 1971, in which case a single stop lamp, fitted "not to the left of the vehicle centre line" can be used. Vehicles first used prior to 1st January 1936 are not required to fitted with stop lamps, nor are vehicles that cannot exceed 15mph. OK, the chances of getting a tug from the boys in blue or DVSA are remote, as few really know the rules, but it could result in immediate prohibition and/or some other penalty. We won't go into indicators etc here, unless somebody really wants to!

Recently discovered are a couple of pairs of clutch linings. These are definitely military, as they have an FV part number stencilled on, and I can find no civilian equivalent in my friction catalogues. They measure 11 1/2 inches on the O/D, 6 3/4 inches on the I/D, and are 1/8 inch thick. They are complete with a little sealed pack of 32 rivets. Part number looks to read FV 1B/C/736, although an inconveniently placed rivet hole hasn't helped. Has anybody any ideas of fitment? Looking to find a suitable home for them, as I can't think I will be able to use them. thanks in advance

Is the NOS distributor still available?

The pump has already found a new home, thanks.

Bit late I know, but only just spotted it. That manifold is Ford 100E, if it hasn't been binned yet! regards

Amongst some interesting stuff I have found, is new looking AC fuel pump, which I cannot identify. Any help appreciated, so it can be directed to a suitable home. The pump has the number P 4736 stamped on, followed by FV141961. Hopefully that will make it easy for somebody with the right info to look up. The operating arm has 1524151 on it, which a search has shown is correct for Daimler Dingo. The pipe fittings were on it when found, but I'm not sure if they should be there. Easily removed if not. The pump has witness round the mounting bolt holes, but other than that it looks completely unused. No wear marks on the operating arm face, and no oil/dirt either inside or out. I can't match it to a civilian AC catalogue I have, so assume must be military only application. Any help identifying appreciated.