Bodger Baz

Progress continues at a steady pace

other side of cargo body all done

passenger floor panel finished and fitted

plumbed up fuel system properly

tailgate removed and straightened

next up, winch off, make new front bumper and replace toolbox floor in the cargo body (just need to flip the body over somehow?!) then blast it and fit on for the last time.

it will be this time, bloomin heavy that body! made a good sled though!

got the other side stripped off today

5 hood bow channels down - 5 to go.

repaired the drivers seat runners, all painted ready to go on soon

also straightened the cargo body head board, didn't realise how bent it was until i started work on it.

removed the front end, drawing up plans for new bumper to be cut out and folded.

just need some parts for the winch, a Braden MU-5A. need a free wheeling handle if anyone should have one lying around?

Well after a long break from the truck (babies and work!) i have finally managed to get it into the new workshop and make some progress:-)

although i have been busy finding parts -

2 x drivers seats from USA (just like buses, wait a year and two turn up at once)

drivers seat runners and slides

vacuum piping

full set of new tyres

new wiring loom

lots of internal/external tooth lock washers

Also made all the replacement top hat channels for the hood bows on cargo body and started to cutting grinding and welding this week, 3 down 6 to go.

hopefully lots more progress in the next couple of months

Hi guys,

 

Bit of a mixed bag of spanners , does anyone know if the different vehicles within the brit forces had a standardised wheel nut and stud arrangement, less quantity per vehicle of course.

 

The wheel studs are OK on my Morris PU but the wheel nuts themselves are getting kind of tired. Would the wheel nuts from...say an MW fit ? Ive got the morris part numbers i could post, unfortunatley the x Ref at the back of the manual does not list the actuall size or thread :-(

 

Any steering in the right direction for a dealer who could help would be appreciated, or if it comes to it, the thread used and i can see if i could get any made up.

 

One positive is that after the sidewall blew out on one of my 9x13 tyres i have found a set of four 16 inch rims that match the way the smaller ones were manufactured and fit the hubs exactly. Just need to source some rubber for them.

 

Regards

Tim

MY Bedford OXC which has the same front axle as the MW has 5/8 BSF right and left hand thread wheel nuts, Know this as i made a load of new ones. weren't to expensive either. only difference is the new nuts are made from Metric Hex bar!!!!

don't know if that is any help?

Baz,

I'm no ace welder, but damn, I'm cheap!

i know that, but what's that got to do with welding?

All sorted, turned out to be an old person problem! (not me)

is Mark your ace welder?...... christ thats worrying!!!

Well i have made some progress on the GTB, keep forgetting to take pics to share.

Since the last update

Cross member bolted on

Drivers floor pan and engine panels blasted painted and fitted

repaired/made drivers step and support panels

battery box (thanks to Tony R) repaired painted and fitted along with steps and side panels

wiring harness nearly finished

got NOS air filter and crossover tube and fitted

fitted F stamped starter solenoid

made Hydrovac mounts

found and repaired F stamped fuel bowl

stripped half of front axle

stripped front brakes

wheel cylinder SS sleeved

Front brake shoes relined

picked up 7 good used tyres and wheels

got inner windscreens

got NOS wiper motors

Got a NOS distributor (dont need it but it was cheap!)

water pump started leaking, new one arrived today

oh and moved sheds!

Amazing how Ford managed to stamp everything even the grease seals on the front hub and the steering lock stop bolt!

next on the list is to finish front axle and get on the rear. so i can get some brakes and go for a real test drive.

tis strange, its a 12 volt neg earth, no jump starting involved, the coil was new only a few months back as were still restoring it. the low tension wire is a single wire, so cant be shorting on any others.

will check the coil first and let you all know.

Baz

Heres a new one on me, switched the ignition on my mates Chevy HUW today and there was a bit of smoke and the smell of burning form the distributor area within seconds, on inspection the points were glowing red hot!

the points and condenser were new (NOS) a few months back,its been running fine until today.

So what would cause this to happen? a faulty condenser? coil?

Baz

or this one....the interior has a rising damp problem!!

wonderful pictures, thanks. as with most vehicles in military service no two were identical.

Regards

Baz

and lets not forget ZILS

Hi Nathan

nice to hear of another one being saved. i would suspect that if it was a USMC hand me down it should be the same colour as T Corbins bomb service truck (on page 1 of this thread), that is USMC colours. my trucks original paint was kind of olive drab but very green, quite similar to todays NATO green.

are there no traces of the original paint tucked away? all the inside of panels and under the seat of mine was still original.

i am planning on marking my one up as Dutch east indies army....possibly, still not sure though. do you have any pictures of them in Service with the RNZAF.

Cheers

Baz

We enjoyed the winter rally in Belgium

i am confused, all them vehicles and not one with 101st airborne markings!?!?!?!?!?

lovely pictures though,

i always run a high grade 20w/50 and have found that on long runs (250 miles in one hit) it will hold much better oil pressure particularly on motorways when the oil is being heated beyond the norm. tried the cheap 20w/50 and would never go near it again, it cant cope with the heat. i have found the best oil is the oil designed for Modern V twin air cooled bike engines, as they don't have a good filtration system just like a jeep so detergents are minimal, but they require a very high quality oil to cope with the power and heat.

as for brakes, yep they are lethal once immersed. i usually drive for a few hundred yard with my foot gently on the brake pedal after to heat them up and dry them quicker.

Baz

A 6 cylinder engine will wear the ring gear in three places so a 60 degree turn would be appropriate.

good point

how bad is your original ring gear? they are usually only worn in two places, i have often just taken them off and turned them 90 degrees on the flywheel so the starter can pick up on the good part of the ring gear. gets a second life out of the old girl.

as for the rear crank seal you may as well change it as your in there anyway, no harm in doing that. same for sump can't do any harm, just usually means you find problems you didn't know had!!

Baz

oh well, i have the key to the shed with a chevy in!!! ;-)

don't be so nasty, even monkeys can be trained to do basic tasks, comparing them to scummers is an insult to primates!

The second picture is in the woods above Foy of Band of Brothers fame

Baz

Well we had a great time, lots of snow, beer and dancing :-)

Plenty of vehicles turned up despite the snow trying its best to stop the traffic on the motorways, and seeing them being out through there paces on the small forest tracks around the ardennes was well worth the trip. GMC's performing very well on the ice and winching themselves out of the trouble occasionally. Jeeps were great fun bouncing off the deep snow either side of the GMC tracks.

Amazed at how many British vehicles turned up, hello to guys from Chesire "The Band of Bummers!"

ANyway G506 should have some more pics, so get on with it!

Baz

can someone tell me what the equivalent size tyres is for 34 x 7?

cheers

Baz