racer

This gearbox is in good condition with U/J's. Located in North Shropshire, £2000 o.n.o. Andy

Good Morning everybody, I have a 1916/17 Pierce Arrow type R8 lorry gearbox, this came with spares for another vehicle and is surplus to requirements, it is the unit in the photos below, Please contact me for further information and price, it is in North Shropshire. Andy

Good evening Steve and everybody for your kind words on the Lion engine, The engine came from a Vickers Virginia, it spent about 70 years in total in museum's, then went on to a Lion engine collector, I bought and then rebuilt the engine and fired it up about 11 years ago. I also have another type 5A Lion that came from Blackburn Velos G-AAAW. I am sure I can say that we are all always looking forward to the next instalment of the Peerless restoration, well done yet again. Andy

Hello Steve, I agree with Asciidv, I use D16's in my Napier Lion with no problems, if nothing else they will give you a very good safe starting point. And thank you for the wonderful work you guy's do, it is very important to see what can be achieved. Andy

Evenin Gents, An interesting problem because we all want you to save every part of that assembly ! Try applying penetrating fluid to the axle / inner bearing area then using a copper drift keep hammering the inner race down from all sides as though you want to seat it further, after a while the seal that has formed with the axle will give up and the race will be loose enough to pull off. Andy

Mornin Radiomike7, You are right with the similarity of the valve positions with the Indian, this engine seems to be earlier and more industrial than automotive but with the lack of any ID it maybe a prototype. It has a very unusual adjustable cam timing/lift system that I have not found the reason for yet. Thanks for looking. Andy

Good evening everybody, As a long time reader of this forum I have always been impressed by the work and knowledge shown by all the people involved in the restorations, I am now in the position of asking all you knowledgeable folk a question, can anybody identify this engine that I have recently found, it is about 1000cc, it is metric and has no makers mark or markings of any kind, it has a place for a starting handle, a clutch in the engine oil and no forced lubrication, could it be a WW1 era generator or pump engine ? Any ideas or info would be greatly appreciated. Andy

Good evening gentlemen involved in trucks with worm drive diff's, I am a regular reader of all of these great build's and have a similar interest, the great photo's of the diff build got me thinking about it's design, I would like to ask you guy's who drive vehicles with these diff's, do you get any feeling of "braking" when lifting off the throttle due to it's design ? Andy

Evening everybody, I am so impressed with every aspect of your post Andrew, what you are doing with these 2 vehicles is amazing ! I spend my time rebuilding 100 year old plus engines that you have to sleeve, re-cut, re-bore and weld up and a million other thing's just to keep them alive and you need a chain saw just to take them home ! stunning ! Thank you for posting now and over the next few years ! Andy

Hi Simon, Thanks for sharing your project with us, it is without doubt the most interesting engine restoration on the web. Andy

Hi Errol, I recently bought a 1913 Chalmers overhead inlet engine that had sat for 60 years and became stuck, luckily this engine and probably yours had cast iron pistons which is better in stuck terms than alloy, I poured in kerosene in all the bores and was able to apply a constant load on top of the piston with visible water ingress and rust, after a few days I was able to add further load as the piston had stated to move. Due to the overhead inlet it was fairly easy for me but if you can bolt a lever arm to the flywheel and add a load by maybe a jack or ram and then leave the engine for a few days you may find it has moved, the cast / cast sticking seems to be overcome better than the alloy rotting scenario. Good luck with your great find. Andy

Evenin Steve, The only place I have seen that anti slip strip is on the outer diameter of ERF wheel trims from the 1960's, it is where the driver put his foot when getting into the cab, if you know any classic truck enthusiast's they may have a wheel trim with centre damage that they will let go to a worthy cause. The truck is looking good, nearly there. Andy

Hi bobs1918, It looks very like a speedo drive that would have been driven from the back of the gearbox or the propshaft, Stewart-Warner made something similar. Andy

Just found this 1912 Lambert friction drive truck on the favourite auction site, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Other-Makes-Lambert-Truck-/222279131203?forcerrptr=true&hash=item33c0de6043:g:4esAAOSwgmJX1BuT&item=222279131203 I am not sure of any military usage but still very interesting. Andy

Evenin Dan and everybody, I have been in this position on a couple of early engine rebuilds, as long as you don't have any pits in line with a rusted-in ring set for instance, a few pit's cause very few performance and reliability problems and as has already been mentioned these engines run very low compression's and a little more oil around won't hurt, if you have one particularly poor cylinder think about boring that further and getting a piston to the next size but weighing the same, are you able to get a cylinder wall thickness test done for piece of mind ? Keep up the good work. Andy

Afternoon everybody, We called in to the Tracks to the Trenches event yesterday and found a great selection of engines, rolling stock and many other WW1 items to see, we had a wonderful reception and were parked up next to a RR armoured car replica, This is a great event, you can get up close and see another side to WW1, it wasn't just shooting that was done ! Andy

Hi 8-10 and all, The photo of the engines at Norton in Hales is wonderful, amazing really, I live 4 miles away from the Hinds Head ! Thanks 11th for your interest, you can find a bit more on the Chalmers in it's recent history here, http://forums.aaca.org/topic/213843-1913-36-model-17-in-the-uk/ Andy

Hi Rick and all, Well done for the 100th celebrations, it is a great feeling to have a vehicle that has got to such an amazing milestone, I have also been lucky enough to have a vehicle with this milestone, my 1913 Chalmers car is now regularly sprinted and hillclimbed and is a lot of fun. nothing like the job you have had with the Albion, at the start line of the famous Shelsley Walsh hill at 101, I have a 9 year wait for the 100th birthday of my 1925 Napier Lion engine, More 100th's please. Andy

Hi Ben, Great work as usual, I hope you don't me throwing an idea into mix, because of the extensive corrosion on the casing, drilling and then bolting the new carrier to it may just break the weak alloy, how about making an "upper" carrier and then bolt the 2 new parts together around the casing's with maybe a cushioning material in between ? you are then just gripping the box with very little point loadings. Keep up the excellent workmanship, a very enjoyable read, thank you. Andy

Hi Ben, I have had to replace gears in my 1913 Chalmers car, google these guys, Sovereign Gears Ltd, they looked after me and the gearbox is now like new. Andy

Hi Duncan, You have found a nice engine to work on, I rebuilt a 1914 car type Daimler Knight engine a couple of years ago, very similar to what you have, when you get into it, if you have any questions please get in touch. Andy

Evening everybody, I have just seen these on ebay, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WW1-1920s-Rolls-Royce-Crossley-Armoured-car-wheels-Barn-find-/131486577110?hash=item1e9d35f1d6 any use to anybody or an I.D. ? Andy

Hi Steve, is this youtube clip any use ? Andy

Is this of interest ? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Steam-Engine-Water-Cart-Locomotive-barn-Find-restoration-Project-chassis-farm-/121548905168?pt=UK_Collectables_Agricultural_RL&hash=item1c4ce11ad0 Andy

Good Evening gents, As a regular reader of this section of the site I am always impressed with the engineering work and solution's to problem's that are found, now although not a military vehicle it is the combined engineering knowledge of this forum that I ask a question, I have removed the gearbox and clutch of a 1913 Chalmers 17 to rebuild the gearbox and have found the oil bath clutch's release bearing looking like it may have lost it's wear surface, what to you guy's think would have been riveted to the bearing ? or are the rivets there to allow oil to lubricate the faces when loaded against the steel release plate. Thanks for any idea's received. Andy