simon king

Mine is also on the way - a companion for the WW2 book Good review here as well http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Reviews&file=index&req=showcontent&id=9849 sk

This might help as well http://www.clubhyper.com/reference/bellmanwm_1.htm sk

thanks for all this useful information - it has a purpose -as will be revealed in due course. In the meantime, what battery/troop/gun markings did the towing jeeps carry in both 1st and 6th Airborne divisions. This would be in addition to the Div Sign and AoS square (red/blue)/ unit number (42) Was it standard Royal Artillery practice of blue square/red quadrant (with the position of the quadrant indicating battery) with troop letter/gun number superimposed - or was it something different? Thanks again Simon King

That's nice - and not even the RAF Museum have one! http://www.theaerodrome.com/forum/ seems a good place to start if you decide to follow Bob's suggestion above What's the position with regard to lighting on "heritage" trailers - is it "as built" - or do they have to conform to current standards?

Finally got the rest of the metalwork to enable us to rebuild the neck of the trailer. Still wondering where to put the T plate though - on the rear boards or in the original position on strips welded to the RH rear rave. Can anyone tell me the position of the holes in the two support legs on the GS trailer. I'm looking for the dimensions from the floor, as well as confirmation of the length - it seems around 30-31". Also can anyone post a photo of the pin that secures the leg in the up or down position. I'm assuming it's just a piece of rod with holes drilled in it for the attaching chain, but does it have a split pin at the other end to stop it from coming adrift once in position and is this split pin also secured by a piece of bog chain or the like Thanks PS Just come accross this picture of a Mortar trailer being used as an ammo trailer for a bedford MWG w/ Polsten http://www.militaryimages.net/photopost/british-softskins-ii/p49003-british-softskins.html sk

I have a British YH jeep as well - 40YH40 - ex airborne, ex M1501912 - one of the M numbers reserved for rebuilds sk

For vehicle colours, the self-published books by Mike Starmer will give you everything you need - and include accurate colour chips. http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/books/pb/starmer_bacdc.html For vehicle markings you have two options - one easy to find - the other not so nowadays The easy option is the recent four volume Warpaint series by Dick Taylor - published by Mushroom Model Publications (MMP) and still available from the major specialised booksellers The harder option - but worth the search - is the Cannon Publications reprint (with significant additions) of the classic Almark Book on British Military markings 1939-45. Go for the cannon reprint rather than the Almark original - there is so much more in it. http://www.abebooks.co.uk/British-Military-Markings-1939-1945-Peter-Hodges/3551130813/bd

Given that some black and white film appears to show different colours than you expect, could it actually be a red/blue roundel? The RFC/RAF used such roundels on some aircraft during the war

is that US Marine Corps Forest Green under the olive drab? - I think that the USMC did use yellow stencilling.

Thanks Tim - that is really helpful. sk

Thanks for that - it's very helpful sk

What is the wisdom about when the British Airborne formations started modifying the 75mm pack howitzers with the travel lock, beefed up axle fittings and fittings on the trail for gun accessories? The few pictures I have seen of these guns in use at Arnhem do not seem to show these fittings. Were they used in Varsity or are they even later modifications Any help and advice would be gratefully received Thanks

Were lights included in the "as built" state - as the formal record shots I have don't seem to show any - just the T-plate. Although I have seen wartime pictures of the lightweight trailers with axle plate, "fag end" light and associated switch and junction box - were they actually fitted to the GS and Mortar trailers when first built? Certainly seems as if my example was subsequently fitted with lights etc as it looks as if a "standard" size of flat rectangular metal panel (with neatly angled corners) with room for switch and junction box was bolted to the centre of the first cross member in from the back. To allow this, the centre one of those three brackets of indeterminate use had been roughly chopped off. It also had one of the teardrop shaped connectors (but of the type with a bulb type connector at one end only and a hole/grommet for the wire at the other end) had been screwed to the RHS of the neck. This had been modified by bending through 90 degrees. If subsequently fitted during wartime, am I right in thinking there would just be the one tail light on the O/S/R? sk

A number survived to be saved for preservation http://forum.keypublishing.com/album.php?albumid=243 sk

Possibly "JB&Co" is J Brockhouse and Co from West Bromwich - well known as trailer manufacturers. My 10cwt GS does not appear to have a dataplate either - or at least no visible sign of where one might have been attached - does anyone know where a number might be stamped if there was no plate? sk

First r/os corner replaced - only three more corners, four mudguard brackets and the complete neck to fabricate before I can start putting the trailer back together again and fit the woodwork. It will be drilled off as the woodwork is fitted

Maurice - thanks for that Might see if I can buy some cheap cutting mats off a market stall or the like to cut down and use as a substitute. Seems more manageable than a cut down inner tube

When I got some replacement mudguards for my GS trailer, they came with the remains of the brackets to which they were attached. Between the curved plate attached to the brackets and the top surface of the mudguard there appeared to be a packing much like hardboard. Was this common on all the trailers with curved mudguards - and is there a modern substitute which will not act as a moisture trap and start the rusting process all over again? Thanks

Thanks Rob - much appreciated! Current tyres of that size have a diameter of 25.5" - is that about the same as for the original wartime tyre? (Edit) Seems it is so that's now resolved sk

Were the standard and airborne versions of the 6lb anti-tank gun fitted with the same size of wheel/tyre combination. The standard piece had 8.25-10 tyres - was this the same for the airborne version? Thanks sk

i don't know if anybody is interested but I've had an original tailgate key scanned and have had a small batch laser cut from 3mm plate. Cost is £6 each - which is what they cost me - plus postage. If you're interested pm me.

That must be pretty much a unique survivor. Presumably it was towed by a radio or office bodied MW or Guy Ant. Wish my frame was as good as that! Has anybody ever categorically determined what the three tabs hanging down from the second cross - girder are for? The centre one had been chopped off on mine to allow for a standard plate with axle flood switch and junction box so they clearly served no useful purpose whilst in service

if needed you can also get replacement clevis pins and yokes for the brake rods from Paul Beck - I went for the UNF version (although BSF LH & RH threads also available) as I was starting from scratch. - as well as the brake adjuster I had replacement axle u-bolts made at the place where I had the springs refurbished: http://www.midlandmotorsprings.co.uk/ Just left a severely corroded example with them as a pattern. Wasn't cross drilled for a castellated nut but i will use a pal nut instead. Shouldn't think the place has changed since the 1930's - so imperial measurements are not a problem.....

Might be worthwhile checking for corrosion behind the spring hanger castings - there is an cleverly designed moisture/mud trap between the two bolt holes on the bottom of each casting........

For me Plus Gas eventually worked where WD40 wouldn't touch it. I think mine had been in a hedge bottom for about 40 years. Interesting to see the bare frame of a Mortar trailer - it seems that the base frames of both the Mortar trailer and the GS trailer are the same standard design with the vertical raves added later according to purpose. That explains the curious extra front frame on the GS trailer. That would make sense if the GS trailers and Mortar trailers were built in the same contract - the manufacturer could just churn out a standard base frame without the need to take account of the numbers of different trailers within the contract Another variation in the design of the bracket for the folding grab handle as well- on mine, the top and bottom are made from 2 pieces of angle iron joined at the front by a piece of plate and the rear edges are nicely radiused rather than being cut straight - that must differ from manufacturer to manufacturer