Hartas

Hi Richard, Thank you for posting the diagram, I'll PM you. Regards Philip

Yes - Sydney, NSW

Hi Clive, I honestly don't know how you manage to respond so many different questions so quickly and have so much information at your fingertips. It's amazing, thank you. What you sent me probably would be of enormous help, if I properly understood and could interpret what I'm looking at! I was hoping that perhaps somebody could look at my PDF of the two blocks which I've coded Alfa Numerically and tell me the wire marked "IGN POS" goes on the upper Block position C Right (or whatever). Or, if I were to be brutally honest: "explain it to me like Im a 10 year old" Ferret Distribution Block.pdf

Hi, Help please......... I recently decided to clean the nipple connectors on the two rubber connection blocks that sit next to the Generator Panel in the Fighting Compartment in my Mk 2/1 Ferret. Foolishly I didn't write down what plugged into what, where - because I remembered there was a photo and diagram of the connections on Jeremy Sandersons really helpful 'Ferret Scout Car' website. But when the time came to refer to the diagram, I found that his site has been down for 3 weeks. I now realise that Murphy's Law applies to absolutely everything, no exceptions. Does anybody, by any chance happen to have a decent diagram showing what plugged into which socket on the two rubber blocks? The Ferret has the Distribution Box No1 Mk1 and the Generator Panel No2 Mk2. Many thanks Ferret Distribution Block.pdf

Hi, I'm hoping somebody can help with a question I have on the B Series Starter Motor. Last weekend I removed the Starter Motor from my Ferret and when I got it on the bench I noticed 3 bolts that look to be a filler for something. Richard F advised that the CAV manual describes this as the output bearing reservoir, indicating it having a lubricant in it, but can find no other reference except a brief mention of lubricating the starter every 9000 miles and recommended oil OM13. I would have expected two bolts,(one breather hole and one filler hole) - why three? When the Starter Motor is in the correct position as it will be on the vehicle - do you remove the uppermost and center bolts, fill via the upper hole until it overflows out of the center hole and then refit the bolts? If anybody has any information I'd be very grateful. Many thanks

Hi, I need to replace a number of: Curly and straight Press to talk cables. Headset cables. Any suggestions on where i might find them? Cheers

Thank you everyone for your suggestions and wise council (which prevented me from reaching for the big hammer). The problem has now been resolved. I went back to the filter unit and: Cleaned the brass spade fitting on the supply to the ignition switch, cleaned the contacts on the capacitors and connection on SW lead coil end. Checked resistance or coil primary (Coil 1 = 2.5, Coil 2 =2.7). Removed and Checked CB lead for continuity, cleaned contacts both ends. Took out Distributor Base plate, thinking that the small internal lead from ignition Coil CB to Capacitor may have been shorting out against the 'U' shaped slot. Insulation was intact. Turned over Distributor baseplate and the cause of my problem was staring me in the face - machine oil! A very fine film of oil was shorting out the insulated fitting that connects the capacitor to the leaf spring. Cleaned up baseplate, re-assembled and with contacts open I now have 24V at the capacitor! Re-set points gap and the old girl fired up and burst into life, big smiles all round (and charging at 28.4 volts ). For someone with limited 'spannering ability,' the lesson I forgot and had to re-learn is that in trying to trace faults -Pay attention to the little stuff that might not initially seem important. Thank you again. Philip

MSN numbers of the coils are as follows. Coil 1 & 2 NSN 2920998066451. LV6/M18 LU/45120. Coil Ignition 5C10 PPQ1 Date Stamp 10.91 (see photo)

Oops, Typo, you're correct 24V

I have a Lightweight 28v FFR and have encountered an electrical problem when trying to replace the coil. I've been using Clive's 'Bright Sparks for Land Rovers' fault finding charts but would benefit from somebody checking that I haven't missed or overlooked something. Filter Box (Test 2) With 'SW' lead disconnected from coil. Ignition 'ON', test points 1, to 6 all read 25 volts Screened Coils I purchased two replacement coils from the UK (one to use and one as a future spare) . Both new, one still sealed in its vacuum packed plastic bag. 5C10 45120E and 5C10 45120 Living in Sydney the advice of swapping out the coil for a known functional one isn't an option. Testing the Ignition Circuit Connect 'SW' lead to coil. Connect HT lead to coil. Disconnect 'CB' lead from coil. Insert screwdriver into 'CB' hole in coil to short-circuit inner contact to base. Reconnect CB lead, ignition points closed. Voltage at capacitor/condenser terminal should be 10V but I'm getting 8.85v on one coil and 8.68v on the other coil. Reconnected 'CB' lead to coil. Check ignition points gap set at 0.015 With ignition points open Voltage at capacitor/condenser terminal should be 24v but I'm getting 0.77v on one coil and 0-75 on the other. Clive's charts indicate a fault in the coil but I'm thinking that the chances of there being a fault in both brand new coils is unlikely (isn't it?). I'm thinking my fault may lie in the Filter Box. Ballast Resistor and/or capacitors/condensers thoughts anybody........ Thanks Philip

Thank you everyone - I'm off to get me some glass balls!

Hi Diana and Jackie, I'm trying to service my carby, when I opened it up I found that there was only one glass ball, not two under the Accelerator pump delivery valve retaining screws (item 54 on the illustration). Do you have a part number and any idea where I could go to get new ones? Last question. What is item 49? Is it some kind of fiber sleeve? Whatever it is was missing. Could you give me the description and part number. Thanks Philip

Thanks Andy and Iain, The Kenwood does have an Ext. Speaker jack plug which is where it would seem that I need to connect to Clansman pins E, D+G. I'll follow your suggestions for wiring the 4 pin Kenwood connector. Many thanks for your help. Cheers Philip

I’ve read the thread about adapting a Clansman headset to use with a CB. The CB is a Kenwood TRA700 with a 4 pin plug but the pinouts I’ve found use different terminology from what is used in the thread and I just want to check with someone who knows about these things (which I don’t!). The 4 pins on the Kenwood are: 1 Mic Hi 2 PTT input 3 Ground for PTT 4 Mic Lo (ground) I think this translates to: Clansman Pin D + G wired together to Kenwood Pin 4 Clansman Pin A to Kenwood Pin 1 Clansman Pin F to Kenwood Pin 2 Clansman Pin E to Kenwood Pin 3 Is this correct? I’d be most grateful for your advice and any corrections. Thanks