8_10 Brass Cleaner

Looks like the pukka wheel type to me

Nope. 23inch as stated. Old size.

Just my 2 penneth worth. The rear wheel with holes in it is Dennis. Same as fitted to their trailer pumps. The front wheels are simply 23 inch rim Sankey wheels, as fitted to a lot of vintage lorrys. 33x5's as you note (33 (OD) - (2x5 (height) = 23 rim) And they are 8 stud, not 6. There is an adaptor between the 6 stud hub, and 8 stud wheel. If it were mine, Id put the adaptor between the wheel and the hub, not in front of the adaptor. It would look more accurate in wheel terms, but it would bring them further out, may have wing issues.

Try nearly 20years later!. I suspect (no evidence to back my suspicions) that the trailers they had were sourced from Dave Sanders up the road.

From memory they were extended at the back by a fair bit. Very crude

The plant hire firm on the Colomendy Industrial estate in Denbigh converted them and sold them on to Farmers. I used to work next door on my holidays while I was a student. There were a number of different styles, but all 3 wheel and sprung

Tigerseal is simply a black polyurethane sealer that dries to look like black rubber. The wide boys use it to glue their wide boy body kits on their wannabe hot hatches. And it takes all paint 11quid a tube at your local halfrauds

id use 'Tigerseal'. And put a thumbsworth smeared over the inside while i was at it too. No problem with painting Tigerseal. Its often used in austin 7 circles as a gasket goo.

Ive just bought some Lucas medallions for the lamps on my Austin 7. Looks like you just need to araldite one of suitable size on your post and it will be indistinguishable from a pukka one https://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/products/516luc-lucas-lamp-badge-medallion you also do not need lamps of any sort to be legal, provided you do not take it out in the hours of darkness

Some photos taken before the black and white photo

I trust you know what a proper horn mount looks like?

The engine looks better there than it did in bits in Kens trailer!

I attended the Tracks to the Trenches event the weekend before last with the Marshall. Here are a couple of pictures of the road vehicles. Ive robbed them off The Manchester Regiment''s facebook page https://www.facebook.com/groups/232584754465/about/ , but I actually took the first pic so I dont suppose they will mind if I repost here.

Tin Lizzie Ton Truck

Black, picked out in Amber and lined in Red and Yellow is standard Fowler livery of the period To be fair you can see in some photos of WD Fowlers that this is the livery that they left the makers in. As this These are a batch supplied to the Ministry of Munitions. Class TE2 Haulage and Winding engines. Essentially a heavy artillery tractor. I suspect your currently looking at the info for one of the same or later batches. For info, a large order of identical and similar engines was supplied via Vickers to the Tsarist Russians during the Great War and I can share some photos of these in use if it is of interest. To this day the surviving ex MoM engines are termed ''Russian Fowlers''. You will find the Russian order specification notes a Khaki green finish (to match a sample of cloth sent in). 1 coat of grey, 1 coat of Khaki.

I have enquired about the pumpy bit formally nailed on the back of Bens White and Poppe. Sorry. No idea what happened to it.

Having used oil lamps at night it is surprising how effective they are. The problem lies is that modern traffic with infinatley brighter lights upset your eyes so once they have passed tou can't see a thing. But bear in mind these are 'sidelights'. So for being 'seen' rather than to use to see the road. I assume the Peerless would have had at least a single acetelene headlight?

From what Ive seen of Stanley steamers the crank in the engine is transverse and drives the diff directly on the rear axle via spur gears. No bevel required. And certainly no chains

I found these two videos on Youtube the other day. No of this Twin Shaft, but the other more correct one And an interesting video of the engine

Sounds like you are winning. The fact that it is freeing off a little is good too. What do you think sounded tight?

Tony The way it idles suggests that timing wise, be it valve or ignition is in more or less the right shop. Opening the throttle can only be doing something unwanted to the mixture. A simple check for mixture is to use your hand over the intake to choke the air as the throttle is opened. If you can get more revs by throttling the air, then it points to under fuelling, assuming the carb is the correct size. It wont rev like it should but it will rev more. another similar test, put petrol in a hand pump bottle that will spray a mist. Introduce some into the intake as the throttle is opened. Does this increase the revs?

Steve. I agree that the valve timing looks near enough vs the period data to suggest that its correct. Stiffening up is a concern. Will it turn now its cold?. I think with it idling youd have noticed a change in engine note and it would have got very hot had the bores gone tight. Realistically just idling id be very surprised if it picked up. Is it simply that it has bedded in a bit, and now has built more compression? Can you turn it minus the plugs?

Steve I had a similar problem on one of my Austin 7's. choking the carb with my hand would let it rev better. Choking the carb by hand allowed you to sort the mixture to the availible fuel and it would rev to a degree Essentially opening the throttle leaned it out, so it wouldn't run. and conked out. Just as your engine is doing. Unfortunately after much scratching my head there was two issues. One was a fuel starvation issue. Rubber hose braking up. blocking the needle valve. also partially blocking the jets The other was that the auto advance was not, this was solved by giving it a load after starting and going for a drive.

Excellent. I can't wait ti see the video. Well done all.

Ben Do you have photos of what the engine and gearbox should look like please. You never know what I may come across ;-)