rustexpert

Does anyone here have any experience of Leyland 680 problems. I have purchased a 680; it wasn't expensive or warranted in any way. Having finally got it to somewhere to work on it and making some small repairs to run it does indeed run lovely;my mate and myself were pleased as it would brings on a long term project in a great leap. However my friend commented on a rattle which may have been the pump drive where the compressor would be on a vehicle spec. engine; the tin cover was loose and appears to be the source of rattle. Behind the tin cover there was a canker of rust which was a bit damp; I rubbed it away with only a finger which produce a leak and a scratch around with an old nail revealed a hole of about 5/16" across rotten which the remaining water in the block then escaped. The application of this engine would suggest that it had stood with normal water as coolant for its entire life which would be cause enough for this. It wouldn't be difficult to plug this hole and another suspect spot towards the other end of the block; I don't believe Leylands' had any particular problems with porous blocks. Should I consider this block finished, just suspect or is this a common thing?

If I remember correctly; I saw this tractor parked up in the Dunstable factory in a very clean condition on a factory tour when I was in college the year was Autumn '89/Spring '90. I collected a wad of literature that was on offer; brochures for export "J" types, multidrives, etc. I don't know if there was a brochure for this but I would have grabbed one and kept it; I think the box of such stuff I hoarded now in the loft of a friends' shed. I could have a look when I am there next. As I remember we were told that by then it had been evaluated or whatever and the project was "dead in the water" if not finished.

If anybody can and wants do this load commercially or otherwise, give me a ring 07858414565. It is an engine and pump on a "skid" maybe not quite 2 ton but nearly; loading and unloading not a problem.

As I remember the British issue version of these container dollies are less complex design but would require the container jacked or lifted up to fit them; it looks like those will pick a box from the ground using the long rams.

As I remember from taking the Unipower over the old severn bridge about 5 years ago; they basically class vehicles by weight and had to pay full rate for commercial. The lady in the kiosk didn't believe me when I said it was about 2 tons! They aren't interested in taxation class at all, no concessions for historic; or that's how it used to be My mate is registered disabled and goes as many times as he likes including with 7.5 tonner with tractor on for nowt; if any person in vehicle has blue badge its free.

I find with any grease gun application; if the grease gun adapter is one you use all regularly and "known" to be o.k. and has worked on the previous dozen nipples if it suddenly wont inject in one nipple go to the next one (they do fail!) if that's o.k. mark or note the nipple for removal and checking/changing if still problem there maybe further reason for the bearing/pin/whatever not taking grease like a leaf spring pin/bush is seized. Anyway it shouldn't be a struggle and any unusual messing about is just a sign of a problem. Also on some large machines when a nipple is remote from the bearing with a pipe to connect beware if the grease goes in too easily it could be just spilling from an unseen damaged/broken pipe and don't forget not all grease nipples need loads of grease some only require an occasional half a squirt.

I know this isn't helpful if you need one right now but I you have a mooch around boxes of assorted tools and tat at car boot sales or at shows you should soon find one. If you're really desperate I probably have a spare. If I were looking to purchase one; I remember our local industrial hydraulic hose specialist who in fact did any industrial hose you could think of stocked all manner of grease guns, buckets, air operated and all conceivable ends and adapters. Also of course Cromwell tools; https://www.cromwell.co.uk/KEN5410490K

Thanks N.O.S. that is most helpful. The exploded diagram attached to that ebay link tells all. That Google search doesn't really come up with much I tried it. The equipment on the engine in question is similar but not the same but obviously the same idea.

Thanks for response. I cant readily post a photo. The engine is or looks the same as any 6CTA. I haven't seen this arrangement before hence the uncertainty. The p.t.o. drive "gear case" sprouts vertically out of the flywheel housing as part of the same casting and the arrangement isn't in any part attached or even touching the back surface of the engine block. Where do you purchase the numerous different standard flywheel housings which are available i.e. who actually supplies them/holds them in stock?

I used to drive for a chap with a collection of vehicles; we did Beltring more than once with several vehicles including G.M.C., White Scout Car from Shropshire. He always insisted on leaving home about 8p.m. and travelling south via M40 in the dead of night arriving about 4a.m. I can't remember setting up flashing beacons on the vehicles; as I remember it is very quiet at that time of night and the other traffic on the motorways at that time are lorries and travelling about 40m.p.h. didn't cause any issues then. Coming home he liked to leave about 2p.m. on the Saturday which usually meant we would get snarled up in traffic on the M25 and usually hot summer days the petrol trucks didn't like idling and hanging around in traffic. But would get better as we headed up M40 and evening drew in and everything/everybody cooled down. Had to change G.M.C. rear wheel on hard shoulder one trip but luckily it blew out just by an area of extra wide hard shoulder and all vehicles could shelter away from the live lanes. Have all your gear to hand, spares in order and even practice your "drill" for such an eventuality. The problem with the Scammell that got rear ended is that 20m.p.h. is a completely different ball game as far as modern motorway is concerned; may as well be stationary in the slow lane. I have roaded some distance with my timber tractors at 25m.p.h. kind of speed and wouldn't think of straying onto the motorway (once crossed old Severn Bridge but was instructed by bridge officials that it was o.k. as long as it was quiet); but I can think of at least one gentleman who travels all over the place with Diamond T and living van at similar speed who I don't believe ever considers a longer detour to avoid the motorway. As I remember the 40m.p.h. speed military vehicle wasn't really a problem. A rear escort vehicle with flashing beacons is just as likely to get swiped as a heavier convoy vehicle with the same warning beacons. One thing to bear in mind; if you drive a lot you may have noticed that there is so many rotating orange beacons on vehicles now that you tend to just not notice them. So several in a distinctive array stands out much better; slightly different colours and out of synch flashing even better. I wouldn't say any particular convoy spacing was desirable but in those days not everyone had a mobile so convoy spacing was more to be adjusted to keep in line of sight; and generally we had a policy of if one stops everyone stops (if safe to do so) until a plan of assistance is decided/problem sorted.

Hi, is any one on here familiar with Cummins 6cta engines and variations of. I have found one for possible fitting to Mack NM6; this donor engine is off an ex snowplough gritter and has a fixed permanent drive p.t.o. for hydraulic pump fitted to the top of the flywheel housing. It is not possible to see exactly how the drive is transmitted but suspect gear train; or exactly where the drive is transmitted from. The question I have is can this be removed in entirety and another flywheel housing substituted to make the engine "normal"? The hydraulic pump is not required and would be in the way really Alternatively; if this arrangement is not removable or even if this flywheel housing is found to be otherwise suitable for my purpose would it be possible to remove the "gears", hack of the "gear" case and blank off the hole? I can't find any reference to this permanent drive p.t.o. arrangement on a Cummins engine but it seems to be original Cummins build. Any Cummins experts to point me in the right direction for an exploded diagram. Would be great help.

rustexpert

Seems I am mistaken about the fate of White in the link but when I enquired some time later looking for possible parts for myself; the guy told me it had all been scrapped and/or burnt no mistake.

I don't get it really; a quite good example of White 666 was scrapped not so long back. Was offered around including through these pages.

If you don't like the motorway; don't go there. The flat out thrash of a motorway journey isn't very good for any vehicle designed prior to the motorways being built anyway and if you have a problem your stuck on it. There are plenty of more pleasant routes to use. If you are in too much of a hurry (such that a couple of hours makes a difference) to enjoy your journey on a different route then send the vehicle on a low loader. I can't understand at some shows all the vehicles (some not that old) arriving on low loaders; I often find a 5 or 6 hour drive at 25 m.p.h. on old roads quite satisfying, planning the route carefully is essential but practicing your gear changes and generally getting to know your vehicle is all part of the enjoyment. Saying that I have also driven other peoples trucks long distances like to Beltring by motorways but aim for quiet times like the middle of the night but only in agreed convoy of several vehicles should there be a problem and speeds fast enough to avoid being tail ended. Like someone else has said whatever speed you go it will be slow for those behind you and you will at some point be stuck behind some one slower.

Someone has actually put an L10 into a Mack, so they must fit somehow. Cummins 6cta is a possibility; they are highly sought after engines. I'm not looking for any more power than 200 h.p. really. I have always found a large unstressed engine to be more efficient and reliable than a higher stressed one of less capacity. Ultimately fuel efficiency is a goal for this conversion. However has anybody any thoughts on the drawbar question?

I examined various options regarding the replacement engine. It is thought that a Cummins L10 fits in the gap but starter position on an L10 is usually in way of the steering box and when I waved a tape measure around an L10 (still in an ERF) it seemed about 4 inches longer. Neither of these issues is such a big deal. I am currently waiting to go and see someone who has an NM6 with a Scania about 200 h.p. fitted and he said that the starter also had to be moved but otherwise not too stressful a conversion involving a new fabricated sump and oil pick up. Although I have seen this truck several times before and after conversion I didn't study the conversion in detail at the time. Do you have a Mack NM, CRSCS?

I have found a complete spare rear drawbar assembly for the Mack; I assume that all or at least the drawbar hook/spindle part are common to several heavy tractors and I was hoping that the hook/spindle would replace the missing front coupling on my Mack NM6. The front coupling is not apparently provided with any pushing shock load springing like the rear assembly but the socket that it fits into is basically the same apart from the spindle appears about 1.5" too long. Does any one know if the front and back hook/spindle component are in fact supposed to be the same or different? I think if the extra length doesn't actually get in the way of the proposed replacement engine crank pulley ( it clears the existing engine); that I should make a collar to use the space between the mounting and the retaining nut; maybe there is supposed to be a rubber/metal sandwich shock absorbing element in this gap. Any comments? If any one has a correct front drawbar and needs a rear one obviously I would trade. To shorten the drawbar spindle wouldn't be impossible as it can be mounted in a lathe between the centres it has from when it was produced and hoping it is still straight picking up the thread and extending it down the shaft a bit.

A couple that were advertised on Milweb a while back. I believe that one has been sold for restoration.

This Mack NM6 now saved from scrapping; awaiting transplant surgery. Has anyone got a wooden cargo body or parts thereof?

How do you go about finding the census number records these days? The last time I wanted to you could contact the Army Transport Museum in Beverly but they are long gone.

Life is short, restoration time is precious. I am assuming the male threaded part is not sacrificable; burn the nut carefully away or if you aren't confident enough grind the nut away until it is thin enough to split away with a cold chisel (will only take a few minutes!) The time saved will mean you can get on with something else; if there's 60 off then if you waste half an hour on each one that's more than a day of your life. I'm assuming you ain't getting paid by the hour. On the stuff I work on a nut which puts up a struggle will usually bring the thread on the male part off with it anyway. Nuts can be replaced easily even if you have to have a batch made up specially.

I will check I am not certain but I had assumed that this compressor is oil fed from the engine with a drain return; it is still possible that the oil level is too high for some reason like a blocked or restricted return. I hadn't thought of that, thanks.

Hi, if any one can give any advice; the air brake compressor on the Foden (Gardner 5 cyl) is leaking oil from the air brake compressor from the shaft which sticks out the opposite end from the pulley. It seems that some one has tried to put a cover over the end and the oil is coming from a hole in the cover. Is the oil leak likely to be more of a problem than just a bit of a leak to live with or even catch for a bit? If the cover wasn't there or something was mounted on that shaft the seal should hold the oil in; the question is if the seal is leaking is it most likely that the bearing has gone behind it as well? If it is just the seal then I could replace it in situ but if the bearings are likely gone then it would be better to pull the compressor off. I think it is the kind of compressor that has an open bottom and the "sump" is the mounting it sits on. Is there a gasket in this joint? Can they be obtained or would I have to cut one? The pictures of a similar pump are a bit pathetically small but I want to get on.

What exactly do you get for a £600 unit? A self contained workshop unit, securable with power big enough for a CVRT and some space to work for £600 a year sounds reasonable in the south Cheshire area.