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rustexpert

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Posts posted by rustexpert

  1. On 5/31/2022 at 5:48 PM, Glynne0812 said:

    Any body interested in a military meadows generator set... 1975... works well and I need it gone... Essex based I can email pics

     

    Thanks

    Glynne

    Would possibly be interested, does anyone know how to raise Glynne? He doesn't seem to look in here often.

  2. 11 minutes ago, ashley said:

    well the pictured is titled Swiss roller, the chap on the left is smoking a very Germanic looking  pipe 🙄 can you not get a clearer scan of the picture to be able to read the plate on the cab ?

     

    The title is one I have imposed myself. Greater minds have tried to clean up the picture. Seems better to look at the content, the general opinion is the roller is French, the dress of the men is quite distinctive but can't find anything like it.

  3. Could anyone here possibly say what country these gentlemen might be from? The apparently brass banded caps are quite distinctive but may not be military but from civil official uniform, the general appearance would suggest that the men are no longer in service but retain their caps from earlier service. Any ideas from the uniform experts?

    swiss roller.jpg

  4. 10 hours ago, Richard Farrant said:

     you should be aware there are some head studs that go down into the pushrod chamber so you need to remove the sidecovers to get to them.

    It did cause some head scratching when all the upward pointing fastenings were off and the heads still tight! However I removed side covers to reveal the studs you mention before being to rough to try shifting them.

    I will try John Walker as you suggest. Thanks.

    • Like 1
  5. WW2 Onan generating set, 2 cylinder.

    This set has an interesting civilian history and has been dry stored for some time. I haven't tried to make it run but the previous owner said it would work. It is quite a heavy lump though not physically big. The sides for the rad are there but the wooden skid carrier was live wormy so it has been destroyed. looking for £200.

    I am in Shropshire/ N.Wales area, P.M. me or 07858 414565

    P1000278.JPG

  6. On 10/10/2018 at 11:12 AM, Rania said:

    It's a bit of a bodge I think. I suspect the 'H' reg  was used to get the 'Q' plate as the Bedford makers plate is screwed to a wooden bulkhead with 4 different screws and the Bedford chassis number is  probably welded  in.   The chassis is ancient - 1920's in my view as no front brakes were ever fitted.. 

    I'll upload another photo showing  more 

    I remember as a student visiting the Luton factory in 1989, which by then was AWD trucks; they were still producing export "J" type trucks with no front brakes for export sale.

  7. I have done some research; it seems that to cover a city and docks area like Bristol, hundreds were required and all of them ready to move at a moments notice as the wind changed. The British "Haslar" system covered the area with oily residue. I assume you Hedd were in college broadly the same time as myself late 1980's. I am surprised that they were being released as surplus so late for conversion at that time, also by that time farm transport was starting to become by legal necessity far more slick than earlier "crudeness". These examples have obviously been hanging around much longer than that but the stretching is indeed crude but obviously successful in the agricultural sense.

  8. 6 hours ago, 8_10 Brass Cleaner said:

    The plant hire firm on the Colomendy Industrial estate in Denbigh converted them and sold them on to Farmers. I used to work next door on my holidays while I was a student. There were a number of different styles, but all 3 wheel and sprung

     

    These are quite distinctive modifications with the kicked up front end; the welding is pretty horrible on the mods but all that is to be cut away anyway.

     

  9. On 8/21/2017 at 4:20 PM, R Cubed said:

    Ah ok, so does anyone have any pics of the construction of how they are put together mainly the construction of the side walls ?

    If you look here; one of the WW2 variety was listed on fleabay last week. Due to the level of delapidation the pictures reveal the usually hidden internal construction. You might be able to view the item but I suspect as it has been pulled it has changed hands. NOTE; This link sends you to a suggested alternative item but there is a link to the original listing or alternatively search for "WW2 GMC Workshop Body" then look in the completed items bit!

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WW2-Gmc-Cckw-Workshop-Body-/173400944442?hash=item285f806f3a%3Ag%3APqMAAOSwK~VbQlFE&_nkw=gmc+body&_sacat=0&_from=R40&LH_Complete=1&rt=nc&nma=true&si=qmU45dn5aXFUaFhEUnI0jBZHP1w%3D&orig_cvip=true&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

  10. Hi,

    I purchased these military headlights via a well known web based sales site; when they arrived I was surprised (but not disappointed as they might well be better for my purpose) they have sealed beam units installed, these are obviously not as intended as the redundant wiring is still in place.

    However the sealed beam units do not have any marking on them to indicate what voltage they are intended to run. Can I assume that they are commercial vehicle 7" units and they are for 24 volts. I know I could wire them up to a 12v supply and see if they are bright or dim and then try them at 24v. Seems strange they are not marked.

    lights.jpg

  11. 2 hours ago, Diana and Jackie said:

    You have the wrong type of pipe, it should be copper nickel (Kunifer).

    Suggest you replace it with the correct pipe, some rubbers will not tolerate diesel.

    Diana

    Are you suggesting L. Gardner and Sons got it wrong?

  12. 2 hours ago, Chris Hall said:

    Can you not cut the broken section out and bridge with a suitable piece of rubber pipe? You then have a flexible piece with some give so it wouldn’t snap again.

    Because it would look like I didn't care what I was doing. It is not a get me home repair.

  13. 1 minute ago, Tony B said:

    For those of us of a dim dispotion. Would you describe the annealing process?

    Annealing to soften (i.e. reverse work hardening) copper heat very carefully until dull red, leave to cool or quench in/with water. Quenching lifts the brown patina on the metal leaving pink copper which is much easier to polish.

  14. Has any one got any thoughts, one of my vehicles has suffered a fractured copper diesel pipe. It is not a problem to shorten it and reform; if it was a steam pipe I would anneal it and hopefully to ward off subsequent breakage. However annealing a pipe usually leaves the internal surfaces scaly with loosened deposits which would be difficult to confidently clear, which isn't usually a great problem with a steam pipe but this is the pipe from the filter to the pump and any resulting debris left in the pipe will go straight in. Anneal or not?

  15. Try John Manners Transport, near Alnwick, they haul a lot of straw North from Lincs/Cambs and over the Border, they also specialise in machinery, would have backloads South and may wish do the trip in two stages; to their yard, then there South, if the Bedford is easy load/unloadable.

    They are good company, I used to work for them years ago. They have an interest in unusual jobs and have helped me out several times.

    Phone Fraser Manners 07703 114314.

    http://mannerstransport.com/

  16. I have this ground anchor. I am told this cast steel version (I don't think it is a forging) is most unusual in the U.K. although I don't think it is the only one I have seen.

    I purchased it from one of the larger surplus dealers at Beltring about 20 years ago; I didn't pay a special premium on it, as I remember it was mixed in a pile of the normal folded plate version.

    Can anybody tell me more about it?

    I know someone wants to reproduce them and is looking for a drawing, if one should exist before I make a drawing for him to use to make a pattern.

    P1000364.JPG

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