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Diana and Jackie

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Posts posted by Diana and Jackie

  1. The Caliper seals in question are known as "lathe cut seals"
    You can get them made at:-
    M Barnwell Services Ltd
    Unit 5 Windmill Business Park Windmill Road Clevedon BS21 6SR
    General Tel: +44 (0) 117 982 5245  
    At one time XMOD has the seals for the brake pistons (That's 3 pistons)
    As for Carlise - way too expensive!
    You may find some tractor brake  pistons may fit and have suitable  seals

    Diana

    • Like 1
  2. Easy peasey

    Get a piece of thick plywood, bigger then the clutch shoe drum,  bolt two  or more  long bolts into the plywood such as to stop the clutch shoe  drum turning, place the drum over the long bolts, assembly the clutch shoes onto the drum and walk the spring on using a thin long screwdriver or a sharp pointed bar.
    There is a lot of tension in the springs, so take the usual safety precautions.
    The clutch liner retaining machine screws as previously mentioned are BSF reduced head so try to save your old screws for re use

    • Like 1
  3. If the belt is rubbing on the fan side (ie Engine side) of the fan pulley flange you need to lower the gearbox by removing a shim from the gearbox holding bolt.
    This is the worst possible design I have ever seen, the belt position as I discovered can be altered by  many variables, including belt tension!
     

    • Like 1
  4. Use Pet G, to replace the sight glass...the milky/white  appearance is  the effect of ethanol rubbish,
    Drain tank, undo bolts remove frame and  you will see how easy it is to replace. I think I used either blue Hylomar or Permatex No3 to seal the joint between the glass and metal frame on my Spartan, no more problems!

     

  5. If you are using E5 or E10 (not a good idea) bio fuel the leak may have been caused by the fuel.
    PET(G)  is resistant to these fuels and is suitable as a sight glass.
    They may also have eaten through the sealant used to seal the sight glass, as Chris suggests fix the leak maybe ?

  6. I think you will find that from now on there will be NI to pay whatever age if you work.

    A few weeks ago I took my CVRT out, we went through a busy part of my area, my neighbour was astonished when a driver pulled out on front of me, I expect it, even driving a CVRT - seen it all before.

    Car and van drivers have no idea they are dicing with death challenging heavy vehicles and it's regular occurrence these days.

    "You will still have to put up with the idiots who carve you up and take responsibility for anything that goes wrong even if it is not your fault."

    Very true

  7. Your problem will come getting insurance, you can be added to someone else's who owns and drives a class H, but as a learner you are unlikely to get insurance to drive on a public highway.
    I taught a friend to drive my CVRT, from Europe as a learner on my insurance, cost about £50 for a week.
     

  8. CVRT has come back to haunt them 🙂

    Soon there's be offers to buy them all back, after they've refurbished The Warriors, they weren't going to refurbish.

    Seen all this before, university graduates fresh out of uni full of bright ideas, that don't work because they have no practical experience, meanwhile all the experienced people were paid off, put out to graze or went to other companies.

    • Like 1
  9. If it were me I'd change the lot for LED bulbs, the dimmer wont work but you won't be at war anytime soon (we hope) , then at least you can actually use the lights and see things,  the drain on the battery is next to nothing.
    I'd also put a red LED bulb somewhere left on. I have a nasty habit of forgetting to switch the battery switch off and the battery goes flat. The red LED soon reminds you that the main switch is on.

  10. If you have the manual which tells you what the fuse size then it should tell you the bulb size, which is maybe  5 watts, and they are pretty dim.  You'd need around  10 of them to consume about 3 amps or 5 of 10 watts  to consume about 6 amps
    Fuses don't trip by the way - circuit breakers do. A fuse blows.

  11. If you remove the hydraulic  line (disconnect it at the master cylinder) underneath the floor plate on the cylinder you may be able to push the pistons back, or more easily slack off the bleed screw  on the caliper after placing a bleed tube over the bleed screw (so the fluid doesnt go all over the place) then push back the pistons.

    Remember the right cylinder controls the left caliper and visa versa

    It;s fairly obvious when the pads are worn, unlike sticking your head under a car and trying to judge.

    Getting the caliper off the gearbox with the box in situ is umm- difficult!

    With the fluid out of the calipers(s) you should have plenty of fun getting the air out when you  go to bleed them 🙂

    BTW when you pushed back the other caliper pistons you didn't by any chance fill up the fluid reservoir? as that's where the fluid will flow back to.
    If it's full that may be one reason why you can't get the other caliper pistons back......

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